Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 21, 2013.

  1. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    Interesting take on a Great Coat.

    Here's one by Crombie who made the orignal ones for the British miltary.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know, like I said this is the first time to see pipes on this style pocket.

    There is a difference in construction between the Isaia and Rubinacci. The pipes on the Rubinacci have been pressed open making the pipes look equal thickness to the coat. Isaia has the pipes turned under making the pipe thinner and adds a bit of bulk above the pipe. This method is a short cut that bothers me but not others.

    If you notice, Rubinacci sized the flap to match the exact width of the herringbone pattern. The flap starts and ends on the line of the herringbone. Something I would get all OCD about doing, so kudos to them.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013


  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    The Rubi in general has much more 3-dimensionality.
     


  4. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    not that unfamilar to neapolitans
    some photos of panico's coats
    have a similar construction

    i found two pix of my coat
    in my phone
    the pocket construction
    is broadly similar

    the fabric is a 32oz/1kg
    vintage moorebrook

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  5. Vegard

    Vegard New Member

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    The coat looks wonderful! And I enjoyed reading Tweed in the city!
     


  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting, Jan. Between your coat, the Isaia, the one in Banis's photo (Volpe's work?), and mine, it would appear that this welted-flap-in-a-patch type of pocket is not at all uncommon in Naples. Yet, it seems very odd compared to the other envelope-style pockets around.
     


  7. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    So you agree it's an Ulster then! :happy:
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013


  8. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The beautiful fabric and pocket details really give that coat a wonderful distinctive look. It is very nice.

    The rear vent does seem to be pulling open too far. Perhaps that could be an easy adjustment?
     


  9. UnnamedPlayer

    UnnamedPlayer Senior member

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    Looks 100 times better than the bespoke item.
     


  10. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    Disagree.

    That thing looks like a shitty military surplus coat and only looks reasonable because of good photography and (presumably) a perfectly proportioned model.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013


  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    +1
     


  12. ctp120

    ctp120 Senior member

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    Great thread.

    Matt,

    The coat looks quite nice. Did you try Chris's suggestion about unbuttoning the belt to release the pleating, and if so, did it relax a bit?
     


  13. quar

    quar Senior member

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    You're a douchebag. Shut up already.
     


  14. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     


  15. P-K-L

    P-K-L Senior member

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    My overcoat from Naples has the same kind of pockets; different tailor than the others mentioned before. Seems like this pocket is common indeed.
     


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