Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 21, 2013.

  1. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Awesome is the only possible or necessary word!
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I haven't compared, but keep in mind the scale of everything is different than on a suit or odd jacket. The actual pocket opening may be the same as on a normal patch pocket.


    You describe it exactly right. How does that differ from normal envelope pocket construction?

    I have to admit, I am glad they did the rounded, asymmetric shape. It is more in keeping with the character of the coat and the tailoring. I think it would have killed a little bit of the tailor's soul to use straight edges.


    No idea. And I am guessing it is cashmere. Feels like it.


    Okay, this is either a good example of how bespoke can be so much better than copycat ready-to-wear or how awfully tacky Isaia is. But beyond that, it does appear that the shape of the envelope is the proper "English" way, with all straight lines and right angles. The pick-stitching is fucking obnoxious.
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I haven't seen this style pocket done with 2 pipes like this. That's new to me.
    Have only seen the corners symmetrical and not rounded on the bottom and less on the top corners. All four corners having the same shape is more familiar to me. I call these framed patch. Last time we made these it took over 3 hours to make 2 pockets.
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Two pipes? You mean both above and below the flap? Also, other than the shape, how does the construction compare to the way you do such a pocket?
     


  5. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I thought framed patch pockets (which I've understood to be the same as mailbox), always have piped edges all around, no? And that the flap takes up a bigger space in the design?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013


  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I think that's just a flapped patch pocket.

    Here is an illustration of an Ulster coat with envelope pockets. Notice that the flap is fully set within the boundaries of the pocket. You can even see the welt (pipe?) above the flap.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013


  7. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    My understanding is that for a flapped patch, the to top of the flap is also the top of the pocket...like this:

    [​IMG]
     


  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, you're right. Then it seems we've discovered two different species of envelope/mailbox/mail-slot pocket. I would have assumed Rubinacci's version was an anomaly, but the Isaia example and vintage illustration suggest otherwise. Also, the version you posted doesn't really convey "mail slot" to me. There's no slot.
     


  9. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is the way it is "supposed" to look. The version in the advertisement may be the same with what looks like a welt being stitching. The Solaro is just a flapped patch pocket.
    the Isaia is really hideous. It has the same construction as Foo's but manages to look much worse.
     


  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I like mine better than the "correct" version. I swear I've seen other examples with the fully inset flap, making me believe the illustration shows a welt.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013


  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    The pick stitching is excessive, but I like the shape.
     


  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Just found this:

    [​IMG]

    Banis took a photo of his Neapolitan tailor wearing an overcoat with the same style of offending pockets. Link here.
     


  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The camel hair example here is what I'm familiar with and how we execute them.

    Yes Foo, your coat has a pipe above and below the flap.
     


  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Have you seen this other variety? Is it a weird Italianism?
     


  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I know you asked Despos, but I hope you won't mind me volunteering - I am ALMOST positive that I saw a pocket of this type at Liverano, with the piping.
     


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