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Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 21, 2013.

  1. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    I like your pockets the best of all the coats posted in this thread. Great example of giving your tailor a little direction and then letting him execute.
     
  2. vinveritas

    vinveritas Senior member

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    Instructive thread, and great coat indeed. Was struck by how young Foo looks without the glasses and the new haircut, as opposed to :foo:
     
  3. Louys

    Louys Senior member

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    I agree, the lapels look crowded on the latter coat because of its low gorge.
     
  4. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    The glasses, like the 4x1 DB that we saw once and never saw again, are a monstrosity. If Foo had dominion over a couple hundred million Asian peasants and wore a coat with military decorations that he granted to himself in a ceremony that he himself planned and forced all the citizenry between the ages of 21 and 50 to attend, I'd cut him some slack on the glasses. But he's a banker. That shit just doesn't look right.

    On the other hand, the great coat is legitimately a home run. It's just epic.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
  5. UnnamedPlayer

    UnnamedPlayer Senior member

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    I'm just voicing my opinion.
    I thought we were all here to give our opinions on "the great one's" coat?

    If I don't like it I can say so.
     
  6. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    Absolutely.

    I'm fairly conservative when it comes to business dress. I think the coat you prefer borders a bit on the costume-y, IMHO. Too much like a prop from a military movie. I would have problems wearing it, but that's me. Foo's coat, while certainly not a style you see everyday, does look like something I could see on the streets of NYC and would appreciate it for its somewhat outside the norm details but would not think it sticks out in a negative way. It's a nice balance to strike for a signature jacket... Though if it was mine I would want it in midnight blue! :)
     
  7. EBugatti

    EBugatti Senior member

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    This. Though end of an era.
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Foo, how about a view of the plaid lining? Curious to see how the interior looks. Any special pockets on the inside?
     
  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Will take pics in the morning when there is decent light. The plaid lining goes all the way up the coat, but in addition there is brown silk over the shoulders and through the sleeves. I assume the latter is to make the coat slide on easier and not get caught. There is one interesting interior pocket. Not sure how unusual it is.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
  10. StyleforumRobot

    StyleforumRobot Senior member Moderator

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    Congratulations mafoofan! You made the front page.
     
  11. mvxwell

    mvxwell Member

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    cool! the first pics don't give the fabric justice until you see the more detailed pics.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013
  12. sridhar3

    sridhar3 Senior member

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    That coat is a thing of beauty.
     
  13. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Sincere congratulations, foo. That coat is absolutely beautiful, and we haven't even seen good pics yet!
     
  14. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I've had this photo saved for a while and plan on having something similar made up for next winter. Just need to find the perfect cloth. Possibly the HE Box 32oz cavalry twill, but I want to see a swatch first and Isles is pretty bad at sending swatches. I may incorporate some Foo Coat elements into the design as well. We shall see.

    Keep up the good work, Foo.
     
  15. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    Mr. Fan, please furnish some photos in the daylight.

    Also, please show the coat buttoned-up.
     
  16. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    That's because its made from the same pattern block, and same cloth as the original great coats made for the British armed forces.

    I made that clear in my post.

    It is the original style from which the others are derived. Hence it is instructive.
     
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Okay, here's the porn.

    The coat is fully lined with the plaid cashmere, but the typical silk lining is laid over the shoulders and lines the sleeves (not shown).

    [​IMG]

    This loop can be used to fasten the fronts together so they don't flap around. As you can tell from the other button, you can also fasten it back to its own side if you want to keep it out of the way.

    [​IMG]

    I can find only one interior pocket. Due to the horizontally oriented entry, I was worried it wouldn't be the right shape or size for my wallet. However, the pocket curves downward into a vertical rectangle, so the wallet slips in very easily. Strikes me as an unusual solution, but I'm no expert on overcoat construction.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You have to look carefully, but you can see that the lining is fully hand-stitched to the coat. I have to admit, I was at first surprised to hear how much they charge for an overcoat. It is more than a suit. I was imagining it shouldn't cost more than making a really long odd jacket. However, after seeing all the extra detail work that must go into this sort of thing, I totally understand. If nothing else, it must be real pain to hand-stitch so much thick and heavy cloth.

    [​IMG]

    The somewhat vestigial breast pocket. If I could have had it my way, it wouldn't exist. I don't like that it is so close to the top button.

    [​IMG]

    The controversially chunky martingale. For what it's worth, I asked for it this wide--to the centimeter.

    [​IMG]

    The pleated rear opening. Very cool. The opening is stitched shut right where the belt ends.

    [​IMG]

    My eight centimeter cuffs. I asked for ten, but was vetoed. It turned out that everything is eight centimeters wide: the pocket flaps, the martingale belt, and the cuffs.

    [​IMG]

    For those who missed them earlier, the envelope-style hip pockets. Or mailbox, mail-slot, whatever. I think an investigation into the various forms of such pockets would make for an interesting future (near future?) discussion. Apparently these are globally atypical, but a known form in Naples (see the last few pages).

    My earlier guess that such pockets are unheard of in Naples is clearly wrong.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013
    9 people like this.
  18. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    It's nice to be able to get a sense of the details and cloth, Foo. Thanks for taking those shots.

    I've had overcoats with both a basic welted pocket and the kind yours has, and much prefer the latter. FME, the first has a higher risk of losing wallets and contents. Sometimes it gets hot, and you take off your coat, then drape it over your arm, but that position makes it easy for things to fall out without your knowing. It happened to me once in an airport, but luckily I had already arrived at my destination.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013
  19. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    Fantastic details and fabric.

    Lol @ the "casual" appearance of the green wallet.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013
    2 people like this.
  20. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Thanks, foo - appreciate the detail shots (the Hermes in the wild!).

    It seems that all Italian tailors charge more for an overcoat relative to a suit (Mina also charges 30% more). Must have something to do with the handstitching involved, as the SR crew charge the same price as a suit.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013

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