Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 21, 2013.
Awesome is the only possible or necessary word!
I haven't compared, but keep in mind the scale of everything is different than on a suit or odd jacket. The actual pocket opening may be the same as on a normal patch pocket.
You describe it exactly right. How does that differ from normal envelope pocket construction?
I have to admit, I am glad they did the rounded, asymmetric shape. It is more in keeping with the character of the coat and the tailoring. I think it would have killed a little bit of the tailor's soul to use straight edges.
No idea. And I am guessing it is cashmere. Feels like it.
Okay, this is either a good example of how bespoke can be so much better than copycat ready-to-wear or how awfully tacky Isaia is. But beyond that, it does appear that the shape of the envelope is the proper "English" way, with all straight lines and right angles. The pick-stitching is fucking obnoxious.
I haven't seen this style pocket done with 2 pipes like this. That's new to me.
Have only seen the corners symmetrical and not rounded on the bottom and less on the top corners. All four corners having the same shape is more familiar to me. I call these framed patch. Last time we made these it took over 3 hours to make 2 pockets.
Two pipes? You mean both above and below the flap? Also, other than the shape, how does the construction compare to the way you do such a pocket?
I thought framed patch pockets (which I've understood to be the same as mailbox), always have piped edges all around, no? And that the flap takes up a bigger space in the design?
I think that's just a flapped patch pocket.
Here is an illustration of an Ulster coat with envelope pockets. Notice that the flap is fully set within the boundaries of the pocket. You can even see the welt (pipe?) above the flap.
My understanding is that for a flapped patch, the to top of the flap is also the top of the pocket...like this:
Yes, you're right. Then it seems we've discovered two different species of envelope/mailbox/mail-slot pocket. I would have assumed Rubinacci's version was an anomaly, but the Isaia example and vintage illustration suggest otherwise. Also, the version you posted doesn't really convey "mail slot" to me. There's no slot.
This is the way it is "supposed" to look. The version in the advertisement may be the same with what looks like a welt being stitching. The Solaro is just a flapped patch pocket.
the Isaia is really hideous. It has the same construction as Foo's but manages to look much worse.
I like mine better than the "correct" version. I swear I've seen other examples with the fully inset flap, making me believe the illustration shows a welt.
The pick stitching is excessive, but I like the shape.
Just found this:
Banis took a photo of his Neapolitan tailor wearing an overcoat with the same style of offending pockets. Link here.
The camel hair example here is what I'm familiar with and how we execute them.
Yes Foo, your coat has a pipe above and below the flap.
Have you seen this other variety? Is it a weird Italianism?
I know you asked Despos, but I hope you won't mind me volunteering - I am ALMOST positive that I saw a pocket of this type at Liverano, with the piping.
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