Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 21, 2013.
Will do. The hip pockets are very strange, have to admit.
Eccentric, likes to drink, and has a volatile temper. So, whnay = Margherita Agnelli de Pahlen
Anybody with any inclination toward the proper English way of doing things will be appalled by these pockets. I suspect that will include you.
Yeah, that's what I thought, too. I just wanted to cross-reference.
I would like to see them in detail, but I predict I will like them. If all you mean about them is that they are the mail-slot style of patch and flap, then know that thos are traditional on an Ulster and canon on a Polo (which is just a special case of an Ulster). If there is something else about them to which you refer, then I am doubly interested in seeing the details.
They are indeed mail-slot style. It's the execution that is bizarre. Imagine an Italian rounded patch pocket caught in the midst of giving birth to a flap.
Is the flap attached UNDER the patch and does it poke THROUGH the slot? That would, indeed, be weird.
I actually saw quite a few pockets made like this at Pitti. The first one I saw I was very much intrigued by and thought it was some kind of innovation, but then I saw some others. I think Will of ASW called it a "mailslot pocket" too
I've heard such pockets called many things, including mail-slot and envelope. I've long known they are organic to Ulster-type coats. However, in their typical execution, they are all right angles--essentially a rectangle with an inset flap just below the top edge.
Apparently, such pockets are a foreign concept to Neapolitans. Maybe I'm wrong about that, but Mariano couldn't make heads or tails of what I was showing him. For a long time, he thought I wanted a flapped patch pocket with double stitching and thick, swelled edges. Those are the sort typical of Rubinacci overcoats. You can see them on bespoke examples posted online as well as on their ready-to-wear overcoats.
Eventually he realized I was asking for something entirely different. That's about when he started complaining that I was trying to get him to make me an English overcoat. Anyway, by the time that conversation was over, I was not sure what I was going to wind up with. He said something to the effect of: "We will find a way to do it our way." I assumed that meant I was likely going to wind up with flapped patch pockets--which are admittedly quite lovely in Rubinacci's execution, so I thought whatever.
But then I got this in the mail:
What I mean about them being bizarre is not that they are done mailslot-style (though this was unexpected by this point), but that the "envelope" is shaped just like a Neapolitan rounded patch pocket. As noted above, all other envelope-style pockets I've seen have been fully rectangular in shape.
Anyway, see what you think. Dopey, as you can observe below, it is not merely a patch pocket with a slot laid over a flapped, welt pocket. Thank God. Rather, the welt and flap are built into the patch (or envelope, whatever) itself. The pocket is hence not built into the coat, as a welt pocket would be, but over it.
I kind of hated it at first, but now I kind of like it.
The actual opening seems small though. Is it?
It is certainly weird. As far as I can tell, it is simply a standard welted flap pocket assembly built on a patch shaped piece of cloth with the whole thing then sewn on to the overcoat. While it looks different, it doesn't look particularly bad. The only thing I don't like is the asymmetrical shaping, which seems gratuitous. It is certainly well executed.
I like that.
Foo: how heavy is the cashmere fabric used for the lining?
For reference, here is a similar pocket on an Isaia overcoat at Pitti:
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