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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 21, 2013.
Those lapels are gorgeous.
i think if you were as tall as the rest of us, it would have been fantastic
Looks really really nice.
Very nice coat. I would prefer a smaller back pleat opening and a thinner belt.
Seems like your new job is feeding you very well.
The opening of the back pleat may not be a purposeful feature. I'm a fatter foo than I was when I had this fitted.
This jacket illustrates the benefit of a bespoke overcoat. OTR ones usually look too baggy when worn over a suit. This looks slim and sculpted, with room in just the right places to accommodate layers.
Thanks for being helpful.
Very nice. Good thing I checked the thread and you decided to post pictures.
Love the lapels, the pockets and the cuffs
Wow, that really looks great.
Structurally it is beautiful. Aesthetically it is interesting, and in the urban, 21st century context in which I suspect it'll most often be worn, it will be seen as highly eccentric. (Expect a lot of "pimp" related jeers from the philistines).
I feel that, in many ways, this overcoat is the apotheosis of your lifelong Tweed In the City quest. Everything has led you here, to this garment in this moment. It is here and now that the final impact can commence, and the gates of heaven be thrown open.
You seem to have this problem with someone else I remember..
That really is a beautiful coat. Well done. Also, I'm glad you didn't skimp on the details getting huge lapels, wide belt and turn back cuffs.
Is it me or should the pleat on the back be closed - whenever I see an Ulster (and I've owned four) the black pleat is closed?
The great thing about overcoats (or so I think) is that you have a lot more leeway with their design than you do with suits or odd jacket outfits. Holdfast hit on it earlier. I think the reasons are twofold: (1) overcoats are overall much rarer these days, and (2) looking back at historical versions, there was never much design stabilization. Take greatcoats as a specific example. If you do a Google image search for "greatcoat" or "great coat," you'll see a dizzying variety. There are full belts, half belts, and no belts. Cuffed sleeves and uncuffed ones. Lapels in varying shapes, from more or less standard peaks to wide downward pointing wings. Collars are all over the map. Button configurations seem to either come in three rows of stacked, functional buttons, three rows with the top row set wider and only one functional row (as in a standard double-breasted jacket), or with as many rows as it takes so the lapel can be fully folded over. Four rows, such as on mine, seem a bit rarer--but they nonetheless exist. I imagine it's a hybrid between the fully functional military setup that allows complete flap foldover and the more gentrified three-row format. There are two points where I really diverged from orthodoxy: the tweed cloth (intentional) and the existence of a breast pocket (unintentional). I wanted the tweed because I thought it would make the coat the most aesthetically adaptable for the way I dress. Works equally well over a suit or odd jacket. I didn't want anything in grey or navy, as it would be too sober and unmitigatedly city. I suppose camelhair would have been nice, but oh well. Ultimately, I'm happy I went with tweed and the particular fabric I picked out. I didn't want to wind up with a WW2 costume and the tweed sufficiently civilian-izes the garment. I fought against the breast pocket, as I knew it would abut the top buttons and prevent the buttons from extending all the way up the flap. However, Mariano would not budge and insisted there be a place to put gloves. Hmm. I'm not sure I'll ever do that, but okay. Still, I'm glad the pocket cut off further rows of buttons. In retrospect, the coat would edge closer to the costume side of things had it not.
It's true. I fluctuate like a woman. That said, I don't think I could have added on so much weight that the back would open up so overtly. It's either on purpose or something in dire need of correction. We'll find out.
Maybe you are right about the back opening (see above). But does this really qualify as an Ulster? Truly, what distinguishes the Ulster/polo coat from the greatcoat?
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