Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 21, 2013.

  1. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    Taub adds this curved yoke detail to some of the jackets he makes too, I think he's trying to create a kind of signature feature if you like. I think this is something his clients request, as opposed to a default offering.

    I'm not keen myself, but obviously some like it and it is bespoke after all.
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Is there any function to it?

    I generally hate when tailors play fashion designer. I mean, to some extent, every tailor must make his own design decisions. Yet, it seems much of the time the impetus is to do something better or do it the "right" way or simply to solve a problem. That back yoke detail appears to reflect no such motive, but is just there to say "This is a Taub!"
     


  3. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    I have the same Moorbrook fabric in dark brown and beige. After seeing your coat, it has moved to the top of next winter's pile. I assume you are happy with the way it made up.
     


  4. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I quite like the originality of Taube's work. I'm tired of seeing the same old 6x2 DB overcoats, and 2-button SB jackets. I applaud his willingness to think (and tailor) out of the box.
     


  5. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    I don't buy that he's trying to make a signature design.

    It looks like he was trying to connect up the lines on the back of the arms.

    Whatever he was doing, I don't mind the look tbh and the coat overall looks amazing.
     


  6. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think he does it to line up with the seams on the sleeve so you have a nice continuous line from wrist to wrist. It is a purely aesthetic choice, but not arbitrary.
     


  7. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I do as well, but mine is only 2m. I love it, but I don't know what to do with it. If you have extra, please let me know as I would love to have it made up.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013


  8. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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  9. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is normal. I don't use the horizontal so I didn't do it. I don't use these and could have done without them and had the lower patch only.

    Thinking to start making the horizontal pocket sized for sunglasses, not gloves
     


  10. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    +100
     


  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Clearly it was not by accident that the yoke lines up with the sleeve seams. However, that doesn't liberate the feature from the realm of gimmick for me. I've never thought that the sleeve seems needed to be connected, for either functional or purely aesthetic reasons. In fact, I think it's an aesthetic negative. Yes, he's created a new, contiguous horizontal plane--but at the expense of interrupting the more flattering vertical plane, which used to run from collar to coat bottom.
     


  12. quar

    quar Senior member

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    Foo, are you wearing a coat under there?

    If not, might be a bit too snug, no?
     


  13. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    Well, I think there's a little bit of a designer in every tailor and in the early days the tailor was the designer.

    The yoke is just a decorative feature. As to it saying "I am a Taub" doesn't a house style do the same thing? Rubinacci have a distinctive cut that announces "I am a Rubinacci" does it not?

    Back treatments like this aren't new, take a look at some of the old pictures of sports coats from the 30's. You'll find a bewildering range of back treatments, some functional like a bi-swing others purely decorative

    Here is a pattern Taub's created for a jacket with a curved yoke amongst over features.

    [​IMG]


    Don't be put off by these types of tailors, there's a tendency to think that they can't cut a conservative business suit. Most of their business is likely to be such business suits.

    In some ways though they are the very definition of bespoke tailoring, in that they are flexible and willing to collaborate with the customer to make something unique and special, like Rubinacci did with your coat.
     


  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    No, I wasn't in that photo. But the coat was fitted over one of my thicker tweed odd jackets. When not wearing a suit or odd jacket, it is very, very roomy.
     


  15. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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