Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 21, 2013.

  1. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    That's because its made from the same pattern block, and same cloth as the original great coats made for the British armed forces.

    I made that clear in my post.

    It is the original style from which the others are derived. Hence it is instructive.
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Okay, here's the porn.

    The coat is fully lined with the plaid cashmere, but the typical silk lining is laid over the shoulders and lines the sleeves (not shown).

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    This loop can be used to fasten the fronts together so they don't flap around. As you can tell from the other button, you can also fasten it back to its own side if you want to keep it out of the way.

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    I can find only one interior pocket. Due to the horizontally oriented entry, I was worried it wouldn't be the right shape or size for my wallet. However, the pocket curves downward into a vertical rectangle, so the wallet slips in very easily. Strikes me as an unusual solution, but I'm no expert on overcoat construction.

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    You have to look carefully, but you can see that the lining is fully hand-stitched to the coat. I have to admit, I was at first surprised to hear how much they charge for an overcoat. It is more than a suit. I was imagining it shouldn't cost more than making a really long odd jacket. However, after seeing all the extra detail work that must go into this sort of thing, I totally understand. If nothing else, it must be real pain to hand-stitch so much thick and heavy cloth.

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    The somewhat vestigial breast pocket. If I could have had it my way, it wouldn't exist. I don't like that it is so close to the top button.

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    The controversially chunky martingale. For what it's worth, I asked for it this wide--to the centimeter.

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    The pleated rear opening. Very cool. The opening is stitched shut right where the belt ends.

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    My eight centimeter cuffs. I asked for ten, but was vetoed. It turned out that everything is eight centimeters wide: the pocket flaps, the martingale belt, and the cuffs.

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    For those who missed them earlier, the envelope-style hip pockets. Or mailbox, mail-slot, whatever. I think an investigation into the various forms of such pockets would make for an interesting future (near future?) discussion. Apparently these are globally atypical, but a known form in Naples (see the last few pages).

    My earlier guess that such pockets are unheard of in Naples is clearly wrong.

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    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013


  3. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    It's nice to be able to get a sense of the details and cloth, Foo. Thanks for taking those shots.

    I've had overcoats with both a basic welted pocket and the kind yours has, and much prefer the latter. FME, the first has a higher risk of losing wallets and contents. Sometimes it gets hot, and you take off your coat, then drape it over your arm, but that position makes it easy for things to fall out without your knowing. It happened to me once in an airport, but luckily I had already arrived at my destination.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013


  4. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    Fantastic details and fabric.

    Lol @ the "casual" appearance of the green wallet.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013


  5. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Thanks, foo - appreciate the detail shots (the Hermes in the wild!).

    It seems that all Italian tailors charge more for an overcoat relative to a suit (Mina also charges 30% more). Must have something to do with the handstitching involved, as the SR crew charge the same price as a suit.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013


  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    It certainly is. However, you really couldn't wear something like that without looking (or feeling) like you belong on a period movie set. I tried hard to make sure my coat didn't come across that way. As conflicted as I am about the breast pocket, it certainly does help civilian-ize.


    Recurring characters are typical in good stories. :)
     


  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you for following up with interior shots. The inside pocket is typical standard issue on a topcoat and a place to carry gloves. We put a large patch pocket on the lower interior to store a scarf, wanted to know if they do the same.

    Looks like the coat is lined with the cashmere plaid throughout and the brown lining overlaying the plaid.

    Agree about the breast welt. Don't think it blends with the feeling of the garment or is practical with the size and placement of the lapels. Would put one on a dressier coat but not here.

    It is also standard to standardize the width of pocket flaps, belt, cuffs for continuity.

    Are the pleats on the back sewn thru by the buttons to hold them in place or are they loose?
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013


  8. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Here's something similar from a little further north.

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    I think the proportions of the details are considerably more tasteful in this example.

    But it was genius doing it in tweed. Makes it much more versatile, as you said.
     


  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I totally should have asked for that. Sounds awesome.


    Yes.


    I'm not sure what you mean. If you unbutton the buttons, the two sides come fully apart.
     


  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    It's very nice, but the detailing is too gentile for me.
     


  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There are two vertical pleats extending above and below the waist on each side of the center back seam. Are they tacked thru in any way to hold them in place or are they loose and only held in by the tension of the belt closure? Did I explain well?
     


  12. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    Yup, I'm not attacking your post, it is indeed instructive and informative. I just didn't understand the comment that "this looks better than the bespoke one". It was just a silly comment to make.
     


  13. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    That is fantastic, thanks for the detail shots.

    Hope you got to break that thing in this morning... Bet that warm cashmere lining was appreciated.
     


  14. Saturdays

    Saturdays Senior member

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    Another good idea would be a few hooks or loops of fabric that can hold the scarf in , instead of stuffing it in to a pocket, it could possibly lay flat in the interior of the coat securely.
     


  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Ah, gotcha. Yes, they are tacked right underneath the belt.
     


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