1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 10: A full set of Aesop's Fables pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing

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    The 10th auction of the year is for a full set of Aesop's Fable's pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

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Bespoke workmanship

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by MilanoStyle, May 29, 2005.

  1. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Distinguished Member

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    Assuming your bespoke suit fits you as well as it can possibly fit, what are the things that you look for to determine whether or not your suit is made to a degree of your satisifaction.

    I am sort of talking to this local bespoke tailor who can do a suit in price range of Chan, but I am not happy with his workmanship. Honestly, my OTR suits have better looking stitchings around shoulder blade, lapels, and breast pocket.

    Is this common in bespoke suit unless you pay $4000+?
     


  2. armscye

    armscye Senior Member

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    Certain elements of a bespoke suit are often deliberately less perfect looking than a machine made suit-- most notably the buttonholes (some custom suitmakers sew them rather roughly as proof of hand worksmanship), and topstitching. I've heard this called the "artisan" look.
     


  3. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Distinguished Member

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    Economics of scale pretty certainly dictate that a one-man shop cannot duplicate the value of a mass-maker such as Chan. There is not enough production into which to divide the overhead. Hence, the work will be rushed and not up to par. You could try offering to pay more if he would agree to slow down.
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    The very best bespoke tailors in NYC finish their clothing with visible hand stitching and buttonholes that are every bit as good as the best RTW manufacturers. The cost is around what you suggest. Top-notch stitiching is just one of the (many) things that you're paying for.

    The stuff I got in LA from Trabalza compares. The stuff I got in DC from Field is a notch lower. London is hit or miss.
     


  5. A Harris

    A Harris Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Only bespoke from top makers in London, New York etc. is finished as well or better than top RTW, when it comes to external detailing. Lower tier bespoke tends to be finished rather more crudely.
     


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