Bespoke western shirt?

[edinatlanta]

**** posting.

FFY

 

[beargonefishing]

#1 The Ambrosi Incident –– I was going to detail the whole fiasco, but I will let sleeping dogs lie. However, I feel compelled speak to your role in helping me save face with my Japanese partners with whom I had invested a large amount of borrowed money in a speculative real estate venture. (I referred my partners to Ambrosi, and when you make such a referral in Japan, you vouchsafe for that person's actions as your own). When my partners trousers didn't arrive on schedule, and as time and time went on, I became suspicious. I did a google search, something along the lines 'Ambrosi pants scam.' A thread in which you delineated the business practices of Ambrosi surfaced. This was the day in which I discovered this forum, a discovery which has given me endless pleasures. But on that day I was furious. I called up Ambrosi and told him the jig was up: my partners need their pants. I told him I read the Sytleforum thread, and soon all of Italy will find out about him. I said I had tracked him down and I know he's partying it up on Jeju Island. He said MaFooFan was a buffoon: he couldn't be trusted. I said, on the contrary, I have gone through his posts, and he has taught me, an Italian, things I didn't know about Italian tailoring. He said that wasn't surprising because I was a Northerner. I had it at this point. I told him to go back to Naples and get my pants. I told him in a way that roughly translates to: 'go immediately back to Naples and be with the prostitutes, but don't use your hands, which God has blessed, for immoral purposes.' Needless to say, I not only got the back ordered pants, but additional pants for my partners free of charge. If I didn't find MaFooFan's thread, I would never have confronted Ambrosi before he completely went to the dogs. I would have been financially ruined on account of all the other things that went wrong with my real estate venture: the pants would have been the straw that broke the camel's back and my partners would have left me holding the bag. Instead, we all pulled through together and prospered (Never again with the Japanese real estate: it is the worst).

#2 The Hermes Incident –– I walked into a Hermes' retail location to look at women's hand bags and received rather brusque treatment. I was upset because I had absolutely no intention of buying anything. (General Employer Rule #3: unless a maker is an artist (let's say artistsan from now on), never pay more than 80% off MSRP, but ideally have somebody take a big loss when they are in a pickle). I present myself though as a man of the world for whom money is no object. Everyone always believes this about me. But I felt like this young retail employee read into my soul: that she somehow traced the long line of aristocratic money grubbers in my features. It's like she knew that I go to a number of retail shops with the purpose of educating myself so that I may properly strike when the iron is hot. It's like she bore witness to the looks of disappointment of the faces of retail clerks across the United States when I invariably say the words, "I'll think about it." I swear dear members, the look she gave me was one of an avenging angel, like all my sins were accounted for. Needless to say, afterwards, this shattered my sense of self, and I fell into a deep depression. I was seriously contemplating whether or not I should just end it all. But then I had a thought: 'what if they treat everyone like that at Hermes?' I performed a google search, and like a miracle sent from heaven, there was MaFooFan's green wallet thread. Just like MaFooFan educated me about the business practices of Ambrosi, he likewise enlightened me about Hermes, which of course makes perfect sense in a grand sociological context: One wants to run off with your money, and another wants to spit on it. This is life, I told myself. It is nothing I didn't know already. But yet, somehow, 'I was brought to the school-house' as they say where I'm from.

This reminds me of the time Claus *********** in Abby's pool our junior year. Austrians are weird as ****. Must be from all the vegemite they eat.

 

[justsayno]

You mean Australians with their vegimite

 

[Van Veen]

Are You a Bezos? (Published 2021)

When Jeff Bezos flew off in his rocket, he became the international (interstellar?) symbol of the male in midlife crisis.

www.nytimes.com

 

[Mirage-]

I think I must have been subconsciously influenced by this saga, because I actually just received a "semi-M2M" denim shirt with button down collar, french placket and no pockets...but with snap buttons.
Is that strange? I think it is, as I can't find any example online. But I actually love how it came out and am glad I didn't actually call the shirtmaker back to change it (I was shown, and chose, the snap buttons only as last thing, and realized later that it probably didn't make much sense with the other details I had already selected).

 

[FlyingHorker]

I think I must have been subconsciously influenced by this saga, because I actually just received a "semi-M2M" denim shirt with button down collar, french placket and no pockets...but with snap buttons.
Is that strange? I think it is, as I can't find any example online. But I actually love how it came out and am glad I didn't actually call the shirtmaker back to change it (I was shown, and chose, the snap buttons only as last thing, and realized later that it probably didn't make much sense with the other details I had already selected).

Proper Cloth, online MTM maker, does washed denim shirt runs 2-3x a year.

 

[otc]

I just found out that Carhartt has a high fashion line: Carhartt: Work in Progress

Think Arc'teryx veilance...but for Carhartt.

I think I'mma kop this WIP chore coat when I get to Montana:

Its basically a regular chore coat made with their normal heavy duck fabric, but unlined and with trimmer cut for double the price.

 

[Mirage-]

Proper Cloth, online MTM maker, does washed denim shirt runs 2-3x a year.

I'm sure other MTM makers do denim shirts, I was just wondering whether denim shirts with automatic buttons (mostly seen in western shirts) yet french placket, no pockets and button down collar (all definitely non-western style points) are something that's out there or if I have requested, and obtained, some Frankenstein monster. Or was that what you meant?

The one thing I might regret is not asking for double button cuffs - although that would make it even more of a frankenstein - I just love these buttons.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I'm sure other MTM makers do denim shirts, I was just wondering whether denim shirts with automatic buttons (mostly seen in western shirts) yet french placket, no pockets and button down collar (all definitely non-western style points) are something that's out there or if I have requested, and obtained, some Frankenstein monster. Or was that what you meant?

Oh nope, they don't do the frankenwestern shirt.

I asked them if they could do one that was a mish mash of OCBD details and western shirt details and they couldn't.

 

[Van Veen]

I just found out that Carhartt has a high fashion line: Carhartt: Work in Progress

Think Arc'teryx veilance...but for Carhartt.

I think I'mma kop this WIP chore coat when I get to Montana:
View attachment 1644927

Its basically a regular chore coat made with their normal heavy duck fabric, but unlined and with trimmer cut for double the price.

Is it at least made in USA? The only MiUSA stuff left on their site is the traditional work pants (which I just kopped to do actual work in) and a couple of jackets.

 

[dieworkwear]

I'm sure other MTM makers do denim shirts, I was just wondering whether denim shirts with automatic buttons (mostly seen in western shirts) yet french placket, no pockets and button down collar (all definitely non-western style points) are something that's out there or if I have requested, and obtained, some Frankenstein monster. Or was that what you meant?

The one thing I might regret is not asking for double button cuffs - although that would make it even more of a frankenstein - I just love these buttons.

A Western shirt is defined by its snaps and yoke. If you have the yoke but not the snaps, I think that would look off.

If your shirt doesn't have that yoke, I think it would look better with a regular placket and maybe a pocket. A lot of classic men's dress follows visual language, so it's easier to think of these details in terms of how the design elements come together to say something.

 

[Mirage-]

You're right in that I didn't mention the yoke - it is a normal one. I just don't like the standard placket though, nor pockets, in any shirts except some high end western shirts like Bryceland's. But I don't think the shirtmaker's factory offered such things anyway, so I'm happy with the "monster" nonetheless.

 

[otc]

Is it at least made in USA? The only MiUSA stuff left on their site is the traditional work pants (which I just kopped to do actual work in) and a couple of jackets.

I can't seem to find a "Made In..." thing anywhere, but apparently WIP originated as an entry into the European market and acquired the license to manufacture Carhartt products in Europe...before it became the inverse-diffusion-skate brand thing it is today...so it could be made anywhere...

edit: looks like it is mostly made in Tunisia

 

[dieworkwear]

Carhartt WIP is made in collaboration with a European designer to capture the streetwear market. It's basically a fashionable version of the workwear line. The stuff is stocked at some streetwear stores.

If you like that specific jacket you might also want to check out vintage Polo Country. Some of the older jackets have that silhouette. Aaron Levine in one:

 

[comrade]

Back to shirts. Some examples on real Westerners from Richard Avedon (1985)