Bespoke western shirt?

[mhip]

I don't know about US, I'm in Italy, and finishing university (you have no idea how boring it is in e-learning mode due to covid) although I have spent half a year in a IT job couple years ago. Back then I had no interest in classic menswear (or clothing at all actually) and still noticed there was a funny mix of people in suits (mostly client-facing jobs but not all), older people in shirts, and us developers in t-shirts or polos (and not even smart ones, just decent enough).



Glad to hear that, I did suspect that it was mostly fatigue and self-humour that often has you and others come off as totally disillusioned. I even considered making the joke that you should rename your blog Die Classic Menswear, but I assume it has to have been done already, by someone somewhen.

At present situation, I wear a shirt each time I can find any excuse to, and polos (spent a long time looking for shirt-collared ones, people must have thought me obsessed) any other time I meet with friends. And I'm already overdressed judging by the current trend for gym wear everywhere all the time, but I'm so sick of it that I don't care.

Whereabouts in Italy?
I miss that place...

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Judging from people here, the more you're into CM, the more you eventually come to loathe it.
I'm here thinking of when I'll be able to have my first jacket made (MTM), and just bought my first meermin NST, and everyone's here decreeing that tailoring is dead and merely wearing a jacket is "costumy". Right after spending 40 pages debating how to wear Western attire - the irony!

Is tailoring now totally dead in the US? I don’t feel things have changed that materially in Europe since circa 2010 (peak Foo?). I just came back from a good restaurant in a smart part of London and everyone was wearing a shirt, trousers and what you’d call dress shoes in the US. On a weekday lots of people would be in suits. My office dress code still requires us to wear suits and black dress shoes. Probably 30% of guys wear ties daily, and always to client meetings. Some people are even wearing suits (and even ties!) on zoom calls for client meetings, even when WFH.

I don't know about US, I'm in Italy, and finishing university (you have no idea how boring it is in e-learning mode due to covid) although I have spent half a year in a IT job couple years ago. Back then I had no interest in classic menswear (or clothing at all actually) and still noticed there was a funny mix of people in suits (mostly client-facing jobs but not all), older people in shirts, and us developers in t-shirts or polos (and not even smart ones, just decent enough).



Glad to hear that, I did suspect that it was mostly fatigue and self-humour that often has you and others come off as totally disillusioned. I even considered making the joke that you should rename your blog Die Classic Menswear, but I assume it has to have been done already, by someone somewhen.

At present situation, I wear a shirt each time I can find any excuse to, and polos (spent a long time looking for shirt-collared ones, people must have thought me obsessed) any other time I meet with friends. And I'm already overdressed judging by the current trend for gym wear everywhere all the time, but I'm so sick of it that I don't care.

Just to add a data (counter) point -
I had a three hour layover in ATL a couple of weeks ago. The busiest airport in the world and a Delta hub so along with holidaymakers you’d expect to see numerous businessmen commuting through there too. Aside from me, I didn’t see a single man wearing a tie and only a handful wearing odd jackets with open necked shirts. Business attire seems to be open necked shirts, worsted looking strides and loafers. V-neck jumpers optional.

I can only speak to NYC. Suits were already disappearing from midtown as of 3-4 years ago. The streetwear craze and COVID delivered the coupe de grace.

Well I’m going back to the office for the first time next Wednesday going to wear a suit pretty sure I would be the only one, seems like most partner dump tie just shirt w/o odd jacket, though I would think if it’s investor day they probably would go back to suits

I guess I'm in some slice of sartorial weirdness, then, because midtown and downtown Toronto definitely still has plenty of people in tailored clothes - men and women. And the more alternative people (especially around Queen St. W) incorporate many things from CM into modern outfits with plenty of style and personality.

It's not the majority of people here, by any means, but jackets and trousers are more likely to get you compliments if anything - as long as they're being pulled off well. The way you guys talk about your areas, it sounds like either exaggeration or a total wasteland.

 

[clee1982]

I think typical buy side (non tech related) is if you’re at desk pre COVID, no tie, jacket at the back of seat. You see client then jacket and tie, now with so many zoom call with client where the most someone is doing a shirt and mostly without tie I expect that to be roll into real world as well

 

[dieworkwear]

Received this from a friend

 

[clee1982]

By the way back to western shirt, what’s a can be tuck in slim fit say ~ $125 option? Watch RRL on sale?

 

[justridiculous]

By the way back to western shirt, what’s a can be tuck in slim fit say ~ $125 option? Watch RRL on sale?

Taylor Stitch makes a decent one

 

[chocomallo]

Legend. TheFoo is a Ken doll brought to life. In the Barbie TV show I love to watch, Ken always has the right answer and knows what to do. If ever there was an alpha (internet) male, it is ChadFoo. Foo trumps Ken because Foo wears a Patek (overpolished by his own admission and error) and will soon pair it with a bespoke Charvet western shirt (or ten).

venessian is the guy who wants to steal Barbie from Ken. I'm cheering for you, though, venessian. Keep aiming for the stars.

GeneralEmployer is Foo's used toilet paper.

 

[lefty]

I was reading a story on how some new network game show, revolving around slip and slides, had to postpone production due to crew and contestants coming down with explosive diarrhea and I thought of this thread.

For those of you who haven’t spent half their lives on here, like I gloriously have, and you want to go down the rabbit hole of styleforum, to get a feel for the Zeitgeistthere are some requisite posters/threads you have to read (assuming they are still available). This is coming off the top of my head, so some details will be missing, but I’m sure someone will come along and fill in the blanks:

There was a “best dressed man in America” or something to that effect contest sponsored by Esquire I think. Foo joined along with others from SF. Foo made top 5 and was on Good Morning America. Voxsartoria submitted a picture of a gent from another forum in a Pith helmet and full safari gear, in his backyard. If you are asking who is voxsartoria, well that’s another rabbit hole. It’s a worthy thread to dig up.

There was a Foo “sleeve torque” controversy that went on for awhile after a member posted a picture of him wearing a bespoke suit in process. It went of the rails pretty quickly iirc.

Another great content creator was a Mr. Moo (no relation to Foo). Many of his threads/post are worthy of searching for.

There was a gentleman whose name I cannot recall, that was quite handy with the photoshop and would take posted fit pics, and either place the person in a bizarre location/situation, or change a part of their body for an inanimate object. Great thread.

Lastly (although there are many more but my finger is tired) there was a Carlo Franco that sold ties very popular with the forum. Then they started selling shirts and all hell broke loose.

Even as I write this my head is filling up with wonderful memories, posts on how to mend holes on (dirty) gym socks, using CVS medical tape to attach to your shirt collar so it can go longer between washings, a poster eviscerating SF orthodoxy of never putting anything in your sportcoat’s patch pockets (it messes up the “lines”) by placing a large fish wrapped in newspaper in his pocket etc etc.

You forgot the time you gave genitalia washing advice to some young guy.

lefty

 

[SixOhNine]

venessian is the guy who wants to steal Barbie from Ken. I'm cheering for you, though, venessian. Keep aiming for the stars.

Ryan; though I'm not sure how well the analogy works, since Ryan's kinda funny and not entirely unlikeable.

Life In The Dreamhouse is a surprisingly good show.

 

[Mirage-]

Whereabouts in Italy?
I miss that place...

Rome. It's just become suddenly 30C+ hot (some would say finally, not me, I hate summer).

The way you guys talk about your areas, it sounds like either exaggeration or a total wasteland.

Well ofc my social setting is very different atm, being a student, to most professionals. No one wears a suit to uni besides their thesis dissertation - and even then, I didn't, just a white shirt and a sleeveless knit on top (which was even a size too big). Funny story that, not sure if anyone cares. In any case most of the professors attending did not either, and even though I was the only student not in a suit and tie, and as a result felt a bit out of place, no one really cared. There is no formal dress code, that I could find at least.
besides, with covid we haven't even been to uni for most of the year. So *at most* you could meet up with friends outside.
And most of the people I know have devolved to the infamous sweats and tshirts all day everyday, including some workers who don't have to appear in calls. They usually put on a shirt if they have video calls.

But again, when I worked in IT, I did see some suits, although mostly limited to people working in client-facing positions, and they were ultra-basic grey suits mostly.
If I go outside here, it's very rare to see suits, but in more central districts where most financial and law jobs are, you will still see a lot of navy suits walking around. Don't see a lot of odd jackets though, and basically zero colors besides the standard business navy/grey. Very rarely might see some seersucker in the summer, strictly off-duty wear for well-off looking people prancing around the historical centre.

 

[edinatlanta]

Just to add a data (counter) point -
I had a three hour layover in ATL a couple of weeks ago. The busiest airport in the world and a Delta hub so along with holidaymakers you’d expect to see numerous businessmen commuting through there too. Aside from me, I didn’t see a single man wearing a tie and only a handful wearing odd jackets with open necked shirts. Business attire seems to be open necked shirts, worsted looking strides and loafers. V-neck jumpers optional.

Well ackshually.... because of covid we are second busiest and that's with the covid asterisk. Also busineaa travel is still functionally dead and delta in particular had pegged its business on international business travel.

But yes overall your point stands.

 

[JPHardy]

I was reading a story on how some new network game show, revolving around slip and slides, had to postpone production due to crew and contestants coming down with explosive diarrhea and I thought of this thread.

For those of you who haven’t spent half their lives on here, like I gloriously have, and you want to go down the rabbit hole of styleforum, to get a feel for the Zeitgeistthere are some requisite posters/threads you have to read (assuming they are still available). This is coming off the top of my head, so some details will be missing, but I’m sure someone will come along and fill in the blanks:

There was a “best dressed man in America” or something to that effect contest sponsored by Esquire I think. Foo joined along with others from SF. Foo made top 5 and was on Good Morning America. Voxsartoria submitted a picture of a gent from another forum in a Pith helmet and full safari gear, in his backyard. If you are asking who is voxsartoria, well that’s another rabbit hole. It’s a worthy thread to dig up.

There was a Foo “sleeve torque” controversy that went on for awhile after a member posted a picture of him wearing a bespoke suit in process. It went of the rails pretty quickly iirc.

Another great content creator was a Mr. Moo (no relation to Foo). Many of his threads/post are worthy of searching for.

There was a gentleman whose name I cannot recall, that was quite handy with the photoshop and would take posted fit pics, and either place the person in a bizarre location/situation, or change a part of their body for an inanimate object. Great thread.

Lastly (although there are many more but my finger is tired) there was a Carlo Franco that sold ties very popular with the forum. Then they started selling shirts and all hell broke loose.

Even as I write this my head is filling up with wonderful memories, posts on how to mend holes on (dirty) gym socks, using CVS medical tape to attach to your shirt collar so it can go longer between washings, a poster eviscerating SF orthodoxy of never putting anything in your sportcoat’s patch pockets (it messes up the “lines”) by placing a large fish wrapped in newspaper in his pocket etc etc.

I think what I miss most is the honest detailed advice that was given without all the hate.

Moo, all joking aside, if you simply got rid of all your clothing and shoes, purchased an entire new closet (based on SF tastes, not your own), excercised a bit, changed your glasses, maybe some colored contacts, got a different haircut, maybe did a bit of work on your nose, got a bit of a tan, changed your personality, stopped buying deerskin bags, keep your socks on your feet.......you wouldn't look so bad after all.

@edmorel you were/ are the master

 

[edinatlanta]

I think what I miss most is the honest detailed advice that was given without all the hate.

Moo, all joking aside, if you simply got rid of all your clothing and shoes, purchased an entire new closet (based on SF tastes, not your own), excercised a bit, changed your glasses, maybe some colored contacts, got a different haircut, maybe did a bit of work on your nose, got a bit of a tan, changed your personality, stopped buying deerskin bags, keep your socks on your feet.......you wouldn't look so bad after all.

@edmorel you were/ are the master

I had forgotten pocket sock.

 

[dogjaeja]

I'm working on a post about Westernwear.

Will you include your thoughts on the tencel H bar C shirts in this post - or in this thread?

Also - would anybody have a recommendation for a RTW long sleeve chambray shirt with a wide sport or camp collar? Western details would be a plus - but a regular workwear sport shirt would be great too.

 

[dieworkwear]

Will you include your thoughts on the tencel H bar C shirts in this post - or in this thread?

I think I like them? I received mine last week and haven't really had a chance to spend time with them. Just tried them on once. Some thoughts:

1. They run pretty slim. I bought a small and a medium. Small is 20.25" from pit to pit (measured at the front) and 17" across the shoulder (measured at the back). The medium is 20.75" from pit to pit and 17.5" across the shoulder. I'm a size 38 chest and can fit into the small, but I prefer the movement in the medium.

2. The fabric is thicker and stiffer than my Tencel shirt from Wythe. I think I prefer the material on the Wythe. It feels cooler against the skin and I like how it drapes. But the H Bar C in medium fits me better, mostly because the front is longer, so it's easier to tuck into jeans.

3. The package is pretty ridiculous, but in a good way. It comes in a wooden box with a slide-out hard plastic cover. Honestly feels like they sent a shirt in a display case. I've never seen a company go so over the top with their packaging.

4. I think they're nice for $110. Originally, I thought this would be a cheaper version of the Wythe shirt, but at the same quality level. I wish Wythe came in vintage-y Westernwear colors such as black and brown, but I think Wythe uses nicer material. I also think Wythe uses a nicer cream-colored material, whereas HBarC's counterpart is just stark white.

I think if someone is looking for a shirt to wear with things like denim trucker jackets, this works. It's kind of a specific style though, and I'm not sure I'm going to keep both colors.