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TheFoo

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Thinking of having a bespoke western shirt made-up. I have a number of Saint Laurent versions, but they are sub-optimal in fit as they are RTW. Not looking for a dressy western shirt or a dress shirt with western shirt detailing, but an honest-to-goodness denim western shirt for casual wear.

Anyone know a good maker? I’ve sent out a query to Charvet, who makes my normal dress shirts but I think I’m likely barking up the wrong tree. I also thought of Kamakura, who makes MTM OCBDs for me, but their denim is all of the dressier, more refined variety as far as I can tell.

Alternatively, who are the best RTW makers? I’ve looked at Rockmount, but quality and fit look sub-par (putting it mildly). Also, I’ve looked into Barbanera, which is a maybe.
 

R.O. Thornhill

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Have you tried the Bryceland's ones? Quite long in the body, so definitely not one to wear untucked, but the make and materials are both great

R-O-T
 

TheFoo

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Have you tried the Bryceland's ones? Quite long in the body, so definitely not one to wear untucked, but the make and materials are both great

R-O-T
I have read about them. Given my height, the length does not sound promising. Ideally, I’d be able to wear both tucked and untucked.
 

ChasingStyle

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Any shirt maker should be able to make one. I agree that Charvet might not be the best suited (or the best return on investment), but I've had western-like shirts made before. Where are you based?

Also agree that the Bryceland sawtooth westerner is fantastic (I own 2), but if you are having issues with RTW, this won't really solve it.
 

TheFoo

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Any shirt maker should be able to make one. I agree that Charvet might not be the best suited (or the best return on investment), but I've had western-like shirts made before. Where are you based?

Also agree that the Bryceland sawtooth westerner is fantastic (I own 2), but if you are having issues with RTW, this won't really solve it.
I’m in NYC.

Part of the challenge is sourcing the denim or finding a shirtmaker who has access to it. I don’t want highly refined denim shirting made for tailored clothing.
 
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aristoi bcn

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Salvatore Piccolo or d'Avino. They have made this style for some time already and have the machines for the button snaps, which many shirtmakers don't.
 

ChasingStyle

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I’m in NYC.

Party of the challenge is sourcing the denim or finding a shirtmaker who has access to it. I don’t want highly refined denim shirting made for tailored clothing.
If you are ok with working with a shirtmaker in Spain, Fernando Garcia de la Calera, owner of The Concrete in Madrid will make you one based on an existing shirt - he has plenty of fun denim that he sources himself, and he specializes in denim. He's made several shirts (and other stuff) for me.


 

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FlyingMonkey

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With your height and build, why don't you just get something from one of the high-end Japanese denim / workwear companies? Several of them do superb western shirts and it saves the hassle of bespoke (unless it's the hassle you want...).
 

TheFoo

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If you are ok with working with a shirtmaker in Spain, Fernando Garcia de la Calera, owner of The Concrete in Madrid will make you one based on an existing shirt - he has plenty of fun denim that he sources himself, and he specializes in denim. He's made several shirts (and other stuff) for me.


Interesting. A little worried about language barrier..

With your height and build, why don't you just get something from one of the high-end Japanese denim / workwear companies? Several of them do superb western shirts and it saves the hassle of bespoke (unless it's the hassle you want...).
What Japanese companies would you recommend?

Spoke to Charvet this morning. They are looking into it—they’ve never made a western shirt before. Also, they don’t have denim and are speaking internally about whether they would work with denim I send to them.

Which raises another question: suggestions for high quality Japanese denim fabric?
 

aristoi bcn

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If you can make Charvet make their first denim shirt in their history you will appear in the books of history and maybe also in l'Etiquette Magazine. It is worth the hassle and every penny. You can even brand it: Charvet x The Pho, now exclusively in Mr. Porter and Beige Habilleur.
 

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