• STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Bespoke vs MTM

dumadiscount

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2004
Messages
66
Reaction score
1
Can anyone in the forum enlighten me (a newbie)as to the the difference in these two processes as I only have a vague idea (Bespoke is basically anything you want... whereas MTM is cut from a predefined design). Has anyone tried the MTM route? I'm considering getting one in Brisbane, Australia.
 

Manton

RINO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,583
Reaction score
2,865
If you do a search, you will find endless discussions of this, some approaching the talmudic in their level of esoteric detail. Briefly, the acid test is whether a pattern (the paper template that determines the shape of a garment) is drawn one at a time, for an individual (that's bespoke) or if a stock or pre-existing pattern is modified to better fit a particular customer (made-to-measure). Â With both bespoke and MTM, you should be able to choose any cloth and any style (SB or DB, 2-button or 3-button, etc.) or detail (slant or straight pockets, one or two vents, etc.). Â The true differences between the bespoke and MTM have most to do with the precision of the fit, and the subtleties of the silhouette. Â This applies to suits and coats and trousers and shirts. The case of shoes is slightly different. Â A truly bespoke shoe is made on a last (a wooden model of the foot) that is carved de novo for an individual client. Â Some top bespoke shoemakers (e.g., Foster's in London and Lobb in Paris) call this process "made-to-measure", which is mildly confusing. Â There are also firms that modify stock lasts to change the fit for individual customers. Â These modifications can range in extent from slight to extensive. Â Some call this process bespoke, others use other terms, and still others do it but have no name for it. Â Finally, there are stock specials or special orders. Â This process allows you choose the leather and color you want and design the style of the shoe yourself. Â But the shoe will be made on a stock last, with no adjustments to the fit.
 

bch

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2004
Messages
282
Reaction score
2
Don't have any bespoke suits, but all my suits (that I wear, anyway) have been MTM. It is lightyears better than RTW, in my opinion. RTW never seem to fit right, particularly the jacket length. Of course, I suppose that every reasonably well-fitting RTW could me modified to the point it fits very well, but by the time you shorten jackets, sleeves, nip the jacket waist, shorten legs, bring in the pants, taper/narrow the leg to your taste, you still have a suit that may not be the perfect fabric or details you would have chosen yourself had you had the opportunity.

Bespoke seems definitely the way to go if cost is no object. But considering the fit/cost ratio, MTM is the sweet spot for suits.
 

hopkins_student

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
3,238
Reaction score
198
There was an article in Esquire (so consider the source) a year or two ago that suggested MTM is better because the fabrics are cut by machine, rather than by hand, and therefore the outcome is more consistent. However, many of us on the SF appreciate the slight imperfections that indicate handwork.
 

Concordia

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Messages
6,941
Reaction score
1,151
There was an article in Esquire (so consider the source) a year or two ago that suggested MTM is better because the fabrics are cut by machine, rather than by hand, and therefore the outcome is more consistent. Â However, many of us on the SF appreciate the slight imperfections that indicate handwork.
Better if you fit perfectly into the first suit--- then you know that copies 2, 3, and 4 will fit equally well. Huge assumption built into that, however, which has never panned out for me.
 

Manton

RINO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,583
Reaction score
2,865
There was an article in Esquire (so consider the source) a year or two ago that suggested MTM is better because the fabrics are cut by machine, rather than by hand, and therefore the outcome is more consistent.
Preposterous. Â The skill of the cutter is not in the actual cutting (which even I could do, with a little practice) but in the drawing of the pattern from which the cloth is cut. Â No machine can do that as well as a skilled, experienced human cutter. As for the consistency of the result, assuming that the pieces were cut correctly in the first place (whether by machine or by hand), that depends on the sewing.
 

dumadiscount

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2004
Messages
66
Reaction score
1
Thank you for all your help guys. I will be looking for mtm options in my area soon and will let you know the outcome
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Most Interesting Fashion Collaboration of 2020

  • JW Anderson x Uniqlo

  • Nigo x Virgil Abloh

  • Converse x Midnight Studios

  • Rick Owens x Champion

  • Barbour x Engineered Garments

  • Adidas x Bed JW Ford

  • Jordan Brand x Dior

  • Billie Eilish x Takashi Murakami

  • Lego x Levi's


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
446,905
Messages
9,666,337
Members
201,977
Latest member
veirgf
Top