Bespoke vs MTM

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by cosmic, Dec 16, 2012.

  1. cosmic

    cosmic Well-Known Member

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    For suits, sport coats, and shirts, how much of a noticeable difference in fit is there between bespoke and MTM? Is bespoke worth the extra outlay?
     


  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    there are massive difference between bespoke and MTM, especially the fit, where do you want me to start?
    In the general sense, I am a person which is very easy to fit, and yet I can only see 'perfection' in bespoke garments, especially for suit jackets and blazers.
     


  3. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Huge differences between the two - difficult to know where to start.
     


  4. NoCleverName

    NoCleverName Senior member

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    It depends entirely on the maker. For the best of the best, yeah there is a huge difference.
     


  5. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    this is as usual the worst question to ask.
    since Bespoke is a useless term
    and MTM means made to your measurements,
    so really what is the difference....

    are you talking about having someone cut and make your suit by hand?
    a real Bench grade garment?
    or have some one take your measurements and have the garment made at some factory
    where the person taking your measurements contributes nothing else?

    or having your girlfriend take your measurements and send them off to some internet site?

    there is no guarantee they any of them will work out.
    and you might get lucky with the cheap internet garment.
     


  6. cosmic

    cosmic Well-Known Member

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    Shirtmaven - I mean bespoke as in a tailor making a full pattern from scratch after measuring you, then creating the garment by hand. MTM I understand as taking less measurements, then altering a standard pattern to fit your specific dimensions.

    For those struggling to explain the differences - why not just start with the main 3 or 4 ways in which you'd say bespoke is better? For example, how much better would a bespoke shirt fit than a MTM shirt?

    To explain why I'm asking, it's all about the quality versus price i.e. value for money. I can get a MTM shirt for about £75-100, no minimum order, which is a huge step up in fit from RTW shirts which don't fit me well at all. Full bespoke would be £150-200, minimum order 3-4 (6 at some places) - whether this extra outlay is worth the premium, depends on how big and noticeable the improvement in fit would be. If it's a huge gulf, then I would go bespoke. If it's a marginal improvement would hardly be noticed, I would rather save the cash, or get twice as many shirts for the same price.

    Same with suits and sport coats. For example a bespoke sport coat from Savile Row would be £1500-2000, a MTM from the same place would be £600-800. For something you'd wear mostly on weekends on down the pub, it might be hard to justify paying 3 times the price if there is only a moderate difference in quality of fit - after all, most people socialise in RTW or streetwear, is a MTM sport coat from a top notch tailor really going to look ill-fitting in comparison? Yes for an important business meeting, job/promotion interview, I would want the best-fitting suit I could get. But for more relaxed occasions, it might not be quite so critical to have everything perfect - 'good enough' could be sufficient, and then the major cost-saving becomes the more important factor.

    I also heard that some materials might not benefit from full bespoke quite as much e.g. linen, due to it creasing and rumpling after wear. Myth or truth?
     


  7. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I dont mean to be difficult.
    it is just that the terminology makes the process confusing.

    It also depends on where you go.
    years ago I had a customer who had winter suits made on Savile row,
    and summer suits made by Mr. ned in NYC.
    the reason was that the heavier winter weight suits were more expensive warranted the greater cost.
    as the lighter weight suits would not last as long. he spent less money.
     


  8. Macallan

    Macallan Senior member

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    The mtm could end up better than the bespoke garment, or the differences being minimal. I once asked a shirtmaker about their bespoke shirts, he gave me a very honest answer and said most people do not need bespoke shirts. Saying that, most if not all shirts in London seem semi-bespoke rather than bespoke.



    Could be better



    It is difficult to just rely on prices, you can get mtm shirts starting at over £200 in the most basic cloth.
    Some shirtmakers will make a bespoke single shirt, although with a surcharge.

    Why not try both mtm and bespoke
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2012


  9. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    One big difference is that their MTM might not be made in house which is why the price is much less. For example the MTM at steed is made in the czech republic i think? and is half canvassed if I'm not mistaken. Are you asking in regards to lets say Huntsman's MTM vs Huntsman' Bespoke/Steed MTM vs Steed Bespoke etc (within the same brand) or are you asking about comparable pricing i.e Brioni/Kiton MTM vs Huntsman/Caraceni/Rubinacci Bespoke? There was this thread where a forum member tried out a variety of houses Attolini MTM, Attolini Bespoke, Rubinacci bespoke, Steed Bespoke and i think from the votes people thought the Attolini MTM looked the best, even though at that level i do believe its just cherry picking.
     


  10. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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