Bespoke VS. E. Zegna Please enlighten me !!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by isfahanzh, Aug 20, 2013.

  1. isfahanzh

    isfahanzh Member

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    Hi Dear fellow SFers. You guys offered me great deal of knowledge in the last several days, and I hope you can enlighten me on this issue as well. As you can see, I wanted to get a bespoke suit during my trip to England and Italy, and I've tried to look for tailors in Naples, Rome and London. The tailors whom I wanted to get a suit from are either based in places I don't have time to visit (Naples) , or the street I can't not afford (Savile Row). So I'm thinking, maybe, why not get an E. Zegna or whatever high-quality RTW suit and get if altered? In terms of style, I like the conventional Zegna style and tailors of a conventional style is not difficult to find.

    However, here are my concerns. Does a bespoke suit for sure have at least equal or better fabric and cut than the same-priced RTW suit?

    1.) Is an E.Zegna suit mostly made by machines ? (How much handwork is involved in making a Zegna suit? ) How long does it take for Zegna to make a suit?

    2. ) If so, does the shortage of handwork mean inferior quality compared with medium-priced (2000 British Pounds or 3000 USD) all-handwork bespoke suits?

    First, in terms of fabric quality, does a 3000 dollar bespoke suit use the same-level or better fabrics than an E. Zegna suit?

    And the cut, does a tailor who charges 3000 dollars for a suit cut better than Zegna craftsmen or machines (to be honest, I even don't know how a Zegna suit is made)

    The fitting, I know a bespoke suit would fit me best, but will it be significantly better than an altered RTW?

    My heart-felt thanks.

    Is
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2013


  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I can say if you are not obsessed with 'loud' handwork and 'soft' feeling jackets, my suggestion will provide a better fitted and more durable suit.

    pick stitchings does not mean 'handmade'.
     


  3. isfahanzh

    isfahanzh Member

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    I still don't quite get it. Could you elaborate? Thanks
     


  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Do you own any high end RTW e.g. Zegna in the first place?

    I used to own a couple of Tom Ford suits before I turn to bespoke. I find true bespoke work should be very subtle and discrete. Fit wise, I find my first bespoke project was slightly off, but from that point all the stuff I made were prefect.

    After a short time, you will know what style suits you the best, and by suggesting the details of your bespoke suit makes it very rewarding.

    The best thing about bespoke is the cloth, I always enjoy wearing heavier cloth (interest from vintage clothing), I find most of RTW cloth is paper thin, does not hold shape, and short lasting.

    In the construction presepctive, I find bespoke work, albeit not as fancy, trimmings and seams last so much longer than high end RTW.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2013


  5. isfahanzh

    isfahanzh Member

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    Yes I do.

    so, do you mean that, a bespoke suit has at least equal or better fabric and cut than the same-priced RTW suit?
     




  6. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    Actually you are mixing things up here! Bespoke means that the product has been designed from scratch specific to your needs and wishes, whereas RTW means that the product is made without any customization. So, in short
    • Bespoke = 0% standardization
    • RTW = 100% standardization
    • MTM is somewhere in between bespoke and RTW
    Bespoke does not mean that it is all handwork (even though it will never be produced in a factory process since the high degree of customization does not allow this). Bespoke also does not mean that it is of higher cutting or finishing quality than RTW - this can be, but does not have to be the case. Since you will choose the fabric yourself for bespoke, it is in your hands if the material is better / worse for your purposes than the material of a RTW suit. Finally, a bespoke suit should fit you better than any MTM or RTW garment since it was cut and designed specifically for your body, but it is hard to say how much the bespoke fit will be superior to a RTW (say Zegna) fit, because this obviously depends on how close your body is to the Zegna-standard-measures.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2013


  7. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Those stay firm and suggest RTW can be vis-a-vis bespoke may have never try proper bespoke.

    The above sounds like an asnwer from textbook, without any hands-on experience.
     


  8. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    :fence:

    I never wrote that I would take RTW over bespoke (actually I prefer bespoke for myself at any time). I just tried to make clear to the OP what bespoke implies and that only because something is bespoke it does not guarantee that there is more handwork, better finishing or better fabrics involved than in any RTW out there. That answer might sound like a textbook to you, but as opposed to your scribbling it might be actually useful!
     


  9. isfahanzh

    isfahanzh Member

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    it is useful, thanks
     


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