Bespoke v mtm for shorter guys

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by novalis, Oct 20, 2004.

  1. novalis

    novalis Senior member

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    I'm deciding between bespoke and MTM options for the ideal silhouette for a shorter fellow like myself (5'7" and thin). I live in the LA area. Following manton's post on elongating silhouettes a few days ago, I'm leaning toward his recommendations for a structured shoulder on the natural shoulder line, roped; high gorge; proportioned lapels; clean chest; no swell, no drape; high waist with medium waist suppression; a closely fitted skirt; SB, true three button, no vents; coat on the short side; reverse pleat trousers at the hip or slightly above. I would also add peaked lapels and a fairly traditional cloth (probably navy pinstripe). I'm also open to variations/deviations from above that make sense for my body type. I see two broad options available for me: (1) MTM, specifically Brioni which manton suggests corresponds pretty well to the description above. Specific models would be helpful. I'm also looking at Oxxford and their Salvatore model though the lapels seem a bit largish. I think they're RTW, but would Paul Stuart be a good fit as well? (2) Bespoke, specifically Kilgour since they are visiting LA beginning 10/20. Kilgour's silhouette seems to adhere pretty well to manton's description above. Is there a significant difference between their "entry level bespoke" and "full bespoke"? If I go with entry level, should I get baste fitting as well? Also, should I consider any other bespoke houses that meet the above criteria? Apart from the specific questions above, the more general question is - can I find what I want in MTM or do I really need to go bespoke? Thanks in advance.
     
  2. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    I'd suggest WW Chan. They'll be in LA (well, Beverly Hills to be exact) on 11/19-11/20, and their "special" this time is Loro Piana 120s for $845/suit.

    I don't see how you can get a baste fitting on a US-measured suit from Kilgour unless you can either fly to London for the second stage, or wait around for their next trip to the US. Plus, if their "entry level bespoke" is just a new term for their Shanghai-outsourced work, you'd be getting a single fitting, made-in-Shanghai Kilgour suit for more than double the cost of a WW Chan single fitting, made-in-HK suit. While I have no doubt that the Kilgour suit will have more hand work than a WW Chan suit, I don't see it as $1000 worth of value added--and you are paying a lot for logistics.
     
  3. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    being 5'7" and thin doesn't sound so small to me, at least not to the point where all your styling decisions are based on your height. if you were 5'3" it would be another story.
     
  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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  6. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    Would it be better to do $6000CAD Brioni MTM suit or $3000CAD Bespoke suit by a local master tailor?
     
  7. novalis

    novalis Senior member

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    Excellent postings by everyone thus far (esp. manton). Point well-taken on elongation of height as simply one factor among others to consider. Despite the introduction of another horizontal element, I like having cuffs as well.

    Milano raises the other looming question in my mind. Given a finite budget, should one's first foray into finer suiting be MTM or bespoke?
     
  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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  9. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    Now that I have experienced few suits I know what to look for when buying next suit.

    1) Canvased.
    2) hand stiched arm hole.
    3) fitted waist area and fitted belly in the jacket.

    I really do not care where or who makes my suit as long as those 3s are satisfied. I am goning to give Bespoke a shot. Also interested in MTM Pal Zileri. Its much cheaper than Zegna MTM or Brioni MTM but its quality of Brioni.
     
  10. Suntory

    Suntory Senior member

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    If you are supreme you can wear what you want.
    how did it go
     
  11. Suntory

    Suntory Senior member

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    If you are supreme you can wear what you want.
    pics?
     
  12. starro

    starro Senior member

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    ^ You know that this was 11 years ago right?
     
  13. Suntory

    Suntory Senior member

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    If you are supreme you can wear what you want.
    Yep, it's fun.
     

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