Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Bespoke Tweed Jacket

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by FedeU, Jun 15, 2012.

  1. FedeU

    FedeU Member

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Hello, everyone

    This is my first post here. The main reason i´ve decided to do some writing besides the reading is that I've recentrly ordered my first bespoke jacket (in tweed) and I wanted to get some constructive feedback on the whole process

    I chose a brown herringbone scottish tweed and based the design on the RL Polo jacket that i found around SF you see here:

    [​IMG]


    After some delay, today I had the first fitting. I know these are crappy shots... íi'll be better prepared for the seccond fotting:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    We agreed on making it a bit shorter on the tail and take some fabric form the front (can you see form the shots that ther is too much cloth at th front th jackets where the buttons are placed?)

    Ok enough from this part of the world... Thanks in advance for all the comments.

    sincerely

    F.-
     


  2. FedeU

    FedeU Member

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    ... I thought I had wrote it well but it seems to have come up a bit misspelled. Sorry... plus, english is evidently not my mother tongue.

    Thanks again for any suggestion and/or advice on the matter.
     


  3. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,995
    Likes Received:
    267
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    Code:
    
    
    I would just let your tailor to decide how the chest should look, from my point of view the first fitting seems great, there is no major error and seems going well.

    You might want to warn the tailor about the shoulder width, it seems a little too wide but I could be wrong based on the 'great' picture

    Based on the style inspiration, it can look really nice, but why no waistcoat? You could use it with a blazer and jeans day?

    I actually think the front is a little bit short, nothing wrong with the back as it needs to be long enough to cover your butt
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2012


  4. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

    Messages:
    5,059
    Likes Received:
    129
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2006
    Location:
    Cambridge, England
    

    Bear in mind that in both the front pictures the sleeves are not attached, so there are seam allowances and inlays which make the shoulders appear wider than the finished measurement. If you look closely you can see the threadmarks where the sleeves will be attached and therefore where the shoulders will actually end up.


    Are you seeing more than the three pictures that I can see? From the images I can see, I don't see how you can possibly tell whether it's short or not.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2012


  5. FedeU

    FedeU Member

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Thanks for replying! I'm terribly sorry but I could scarcely managed to convince an employee to use my phone (wich does not have a good built in camera) to take my picture. So bad camera+ bad photographer = crappy shots.

    I'll fill in for what's lacking in the pictures and I'll promise to get it wright for the second fitting:

    When I tried it, I felt the overall lenght was bit long... I hope they will not take so much as not to cover "the area", as ad911 stated.

    Aditionally, it was pretty clear at the time that there was an excess of fabric at the front (maybe that could be infered from the lowsy pictures that I've posted). With this I mean to say that there was an excess of fabric and the taylor thought that the back was fitting really good so the cutting should be made at the front... I don't have a lot of experience but It sounded like a sensitive remark.

    By the end of this week I should have the appointment for the 2nd fitting, so hopefully I'll get new shots and let you decide if I'm in the right path here...

    In the mean time, if you consider that there's anything to bear in mind regarding the 2nd fitting, I'll be grateful to know your thoughts.

    again, thaks both of you for your reply...

    Sincerely,

    FedeU.-
     


  6. FedeU

    FedeU Member

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Ok, here's the 2nd fitting:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    So, wht do you think? There's still too much cloth up front... that should be taken care of.... I'm not quite decided about how wide the arms should be, any thoughts on that?

    Well, any other comment or advice will very much appretiated...

    Thanks again,

    F.-
     


  7. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

    Messages:
    5,059
    Likes Received:
    129
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2006
    Location:
    Cambridge, England
    Make sure they realise that the Polo jacket you're modelling it on is a 3-roll-2, so is meant to button at the middle button and not at the top one.

    The back looks pretty good, but I have no idea what's going on at the front.

    I probably would make the sleeves a bit slimmer (and they need to be slightly shorter too). Something gives me the feeling there's quite a large arm-hole, so slimming the sleeve much at the cap might not be possible.
     


  8. FedeU

    FedeU Member

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Yes I'll phone them and ask the to look at the picture again on the 3-roll-2 issue... I'm afraid I was too concerned on taking the pictures that I didn't place as much attention as the moment required...

    What about the "wrinkles" I've just noticed at the back of the arm on th side picture? Is that a think to be concerned about?

    Thanks a million...
     


  9. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,995
    Likes Received:
    267
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    The wrinkles are perfectly fine, perhaps just your posture, those are for ease of movement anyway

    The armholes are ok, usually for the first item the tailor would be reluctant to give you Italian high armhole to start off with, obviously unless the shop is in Italy.

    p.s. the ladies in the shop looks very 'kind'
     


  10. FedeU

    FedeU Member

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Well, as much as I would like to, I won't be shopping in Italy in the near future... Although I think I prefer the brittish style (no chance of shopping at Savile Row either).

    Thanks for your reply... What are your thoughts regarding the arms' wide? Sanguis Mortuum may have a point... I could make them slimmer by 1cm (I'm thinking 1cm less in diameter) Would that be enough?

    Regarding the shop, this was altogether new for me, I didn't knew their work and I' never order anything except made to measure shirts. All in all, I think it's coming about pretty well.

    This is very enlightening... None of my friends or aquaintances can be of help in these matters... That's why I'm so grateful for the responses.

    Thanks once again.
     


  11. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    6,044
    Likes Received:
    342
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    Overall, it looks like you'll have an excellent result.
    Where is this being done?
     


  12. FedeU

    FedeU Member

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    I live in argentina and that's where this is being made.

    The thing started the other way around... near my office there's a cloth merchant who happened to have some scottish tweeds lef from long ago and I saw this one and thought that none of the clothes I had was made with this quality of fabric. (except for the ones I inherited from my grand father, those are unbeatable)

    So I bought 2 meters for a sport coat and started looking for a shop that could turn it into a part of my wardrobe. Luckily, I've found this one which have 4 persons in all.

    Come to think of it, there's quite a number of people that work really well (my shirtmaker, for example). I guess it's because many immigrants from the south of Italy came to this country troughout the last century. So, much of what you see as Neapolitalean tayloring nowadays is the kind of work that you could still find around these latitudes...

    I hope this gives you an idea of the hole matter...

    Thanks for replying...
     


  13. FedeU

    FedeU Member

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    FINAL STAGE: (This is the end result, unless I would like some other adjustment)

    [​IMG][​IMG]


    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Let the wise and experienced comment/advice/critique the job done here...

    Greetings, F.-
     


  14. GBR

    GBR Senior member

    Messages:
    8,060
    Likes Received:
    606
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Not bad but it does look more than a tad short at the front.
     


  15. FedeU

    FedeU Member

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    You mean in lenght only or in some other way? Because it looks like the low front gets pushed away somehow... some srt of a "pregnant" effect... maybe its just my weird posture...

    Can you explain me exactly what do you see thats short? specifically I mean.

    Thanks
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by