Bespoke trousers?

[chorse123]

I'm thinking about having a pair or two of bespoke trousers made, as I'm not an easy fit. I've used various MTM guys and the results have been okay, but not great. Are tailors happy to take on a new customer for only a pair or two? What could I expect to pay, assuming standard fabrics? Any recommendations for New York or visiting tailors? I think I'd prefer to go high-end for at least a pair.

 

[Manton]

They charge a lot, to be honest. Count on $750, and it goes up from there. Nicolosi famously charges $1,500 for odd trousers! Maybe if you've been getting suits from him for 30 years, he'll drop that to a grand. I must admit, they are damned good trousers.

If you really want some nice ones and are willing to shell out for a pair or two, wait until Ambrosi of Naples comes back. He is not cheap, but his make is several notches above the typical New York trouser. Which is not to say that the latter are bad, but Ambrosi is better.

The two best trouser makers in NY only work with tailors and won't take private clients. Which is for the best, since I am told that they are not cutters and, as good as they are at putting the pieces together, they would not be so good at cutting the pieces in the first place. That partly explains the high price, though. You have to pay for overhead twice, and for the tailor's pattern drafting, cutting, and fitting, and for the maker's ... um, making.

 

[Concordia]

Among the visitors from London, Anderson & Sheppard, Steven Hitchcock, and Denman & Goddard all produce excellent, well-cut trousers, in slightly different styles. They are expensive, however, especially given the collapse of the dollar. For somewhat less money, Steed (Ed DeBoise) is also pretty good. London's a big place, and there are doubtless others who might give you the cut you want.

The London Lounge has sponsored a trip to New York by Ambrosi, who is highly reputed. He does amazing amounts of handwork, but I have no idea yet what sort of cut he will generate from my translated instructions. Prices on this last trip were considerably below standard London rates.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Concordia

Prices on this last trip were considerably below standard London rates.
With about a bajillion times more handwork. (If that matters to anyone.)

 

[itsstillmatt]

Ambrosi makes great trousers. I would suggest them to anybody.

 

[Concordia]

Originally Posted by Manton

With about a bajillion times more handwork. (If that matters to anyone.)

Ostentatious levels of handwork, if you specify it. When confronted with his price/handwork ratio, I was tempted to ask if he was in the slave trade.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Manton

With about a bajillion times more handwork. (If that matters to anyone.)
They are very helpful in training for the "Hold Your Wee for a Wii" contest. Those who specified their buttonfly will soon learn this.

 

[TheFoo]

How much does Ambrosi charge for a pair?

 

[Concordia]

Originally Posted by iammatt

They are very helpful in training for the "Hold Your Pee for a Wii" contest. Those who specified their button fly will soon learn this.
Hand injuries or gout will only make the problem worse.
Sooner or later, there is going to be a bad story about this in the NY Times and a round of backlash from consumers.

 

[Mark Seitelman]

Most tailors will accept you. After all, it's a customer's foot in the door. I wouldn't waste my time with a tailor who won't sell to you because you're not placing a suit order.

I had a friend who used Anderson & Sheppard and tried them on one set of trousers. They took the order gladly.

The visiting tailors from Savile Row charge 500-550+ pounds. The off the Row tailors charge a little less.

It seems that the going rate for "bespoke" trousers is about $1,000 on both Savile Row and NYC. At that price you'll get excellent cloth, such as Lesser's or Scabal. However, if you want a luxury cloth, such as 220's, expect to pay much more.

When I first ordered from Davies & Son we actually had a basted try-on of the trousers.

Incidentally, Henry Poole is in NYC now.

If you want to stay local, then there are a good number of choices including Len Logsdail.

Have you tried Oxxford MTM?

Good luck.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Mark Seitelman

Most tailors will accept you. After all, it's a customer's foot in the door. I wouldn't waste my time with a tailor who won't sell to you because you're not placing a suit order.

I had a friend who used Anderson & Sheppard and tried them on one set of trousers. They took the order gladly.

The visiting tailors from Savile Row charge 500-550+ pounds. The off the Row tailors charge a little less.

It seems that the going rate for "bespoke" trousers is about $1,000 on both Savile Row and NYC. At that price you'll get excellent cloth, such as Lesser's or Scabal. However, if you want a luxury cloth, such as 220's, expect to pay much more.

When I first ordered from Davies & Son we actually had a basted try-on of the trousers.

Incidentally, Henry Poole is in NYC now.

If you want to stay local, then are a good number of choices including Len Logsdail.

Have you tried Oxxford MTM?

Good luck.
From seeing these prices, Ambrosi will be a bit less and without a doubt the best make. With styling ymmv, but that goes for all of them. He also does a basted trouser fitting.

 

[chorse123]

Thanks for all the advice. I think I'll try Ambrosi, through perhaps in November when I get over to Italy.

 

[medley]

Originally Posted by chorse123

I'm thinking about having a pair or two of bespoke trousers made, as I'm not an easy fit. I've used various MTM guys and the results have been okay, but not great. Are tailors happy to take on a new customer for only a pair or two? What could I expect to pay, assuming standard fabrics? Any recommendations for New York or visiting tailors? I think I'd prefer to go high-end for at least a pair.

I think you should try NINO CORVATO, he is the best there is in NYC.
I think he would do two trousers and pricing is pretty reasonable.

 

[Mark Seitelman]

Originally Posted by medley

I think you should try NINO CORVATO, he is the best there is in NYC.
I think he would do two trousers and pricing is pretty reasonable.


I concur that Crovato is a good choice.

I had the chance to visit Crovato's shop with a friend who was trying-on two suits. His product is excellent, he is fairly priced (for bespoke), and he's a lovely person.

 

[EL72]

Maybe it's just me but given how RTW trousers can easily be altered by competent tailors, I can't quite understand the logic behind bespoke trousers - especially at the prices mentioned in this thread. Besides the rise, it seems that virtually any part of the pants (waits, seat, taper...) can be sufficiently altered to fit even the most oddly-shaped lower body - unlike jackets and shirts that need provide a closer fit.