• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Bespoke Trousers: Current Trend

Franc Lloyd

Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2012
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Seeing an uptick of requests from clients demanding old-school, retro-looking side-adjusters (a.k.a. buckles) with their bespoke trousers. With no loops on the waistband, belts are rendered useless. Brighter colors and "busier" patterns are certainly on the rise. Pants have a certain minimalist (neat and clean) feel to them and they pair well with a nice, solid-colored dress shirt (lighter color).

Such details, obviously, aren't always available in the off-the-rack merchandise and allows clients to express their individual personality - For example, notice the sliced, monogrammed pockets. These sartorial features are, by no means, new and have been popular in the past. "Times are a-changing," sang Bob Dylan. But in a circular fashion, it appears.

Would love to hear your comments, concerns, suggestions and feedback. Thanks!
 

GBR

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2006
Messages
8,551
Reaction score
733

[ATTACHMENT=3299]hunter.jpg (738k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]

Seeing an uptick of requests from clients demanding old-school, retro-looking side-adjusters (a.k.a. buckles) with their bespoke trousers. With no loops on the waistband, belts are rendered useless. Brighter colors and "busier" patterns are certainly on the rise. Pants have a certain minimalist (neat and clean) feel to them and they pair well with a nice, solid-colored dress shirt (lighter color).

Such details, obviously, aren't always available in the off-the-rack merchandise and allows clients to express their individual personality - For example, notice the sliced, monogrammed pockets. These sartorial features are, by no means, new and have been popular in the past. "Times are a-changing," sang Bob Dylan. But in a circular fashion, it appears. 

Would love to hear your comments, concerns, suggestions and feedback. Thanks!  


Are you advertising these/your services as a tailor?
 

Franc Lloyd

Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2012
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
No, I am not advertising. Just looking to start a conversation with other members. I am new to the forum, recommended to join by another long time member. Thanks!
 

Needsmoreshoes

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2012
Messages
291
Reaction score
12
Yeah I'd totally agree with you on that - I would certainly go for side adjusters over a belt - think it looks cleaner and it's also a bit of a bespoke detail. I also think that patterned trousers with a conservative shirt are a great way to set yourself apart without looking to loud or forward but you really need to find that "Goldilocks Zone"

Have you noticed a trend with cuff size at all? From what I've seen certain guys who do wear cuffed trousers are getting them put at anything up to 2.5", way bigger than I've seen in the past. I think it can look great on tall thin guys but large cuffs can look out of proportion on shorter guys.
Just a (pointless) related thought actually - is there some form of rule for your own height related to the most flattering cuff size? Or do you put cuffs on purely in line with client preference?
 

Franc Lloyd

Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2012
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
The revival of the cuff, yes! Totally noticing that along with the ankle-bearing, "clam-digger on Cape Cod" hem. Wholeheartedly agree that stubbier men should stay clear of over-sized cuffs - totally counter-productive.
As for your question, generally its best to play it by ear, case-by-case, depending on the length and girth of the individual. After all, its custom and, like you said, client's preference should always be accounted for.
 

GBR

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2006
Messages
8,551
Reaction score
733

No, I am not advertising. Just looking to start a conversation with other members. I am new to the forum, recommended to join by another long time member. Thanks!



Your opening form of words seem very strange then.

"Seeing an uptick of requests from clients demanding old-school, retro-looking side-adjusters (a.k.a. buckles) with their bespoke trousers. "

Whose clients?
 
Last edited:

Frankie22

Timed Out
Timed Out
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
1,354
Reaction score
269
People moving towards looser (but still slim) tailored pants, no belt with higher rise -- pleats coming back as well. Suiting more classic, larger lapel -- pendulum swinging back from the "skinny" insanity. Athletes wearing TF etcetera.

Pretty stoked about the beltless pants and larger lapels myself : - )
 
Last edited:

brokencycle

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Nov 21, 2008
Messages
28,930
Reaction score
31,054

Your opening form of words seem very strange then.
"Seeing an uptick of requests from clients demanding old-school, retro-looking side-adjusters (a.k.a. buckles) with their bespoke trousers. "
Whose clients?


He hasn't mentioned his shop specifically or isn't going "hey come buy trousers from me." I mean, it may have been worded a bit funny, but I think he was saying that his clients are requesting side-adjusters over belt loops more and wants to know if others have noticed that trend as well.
 

GBR

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2006
Messages
8,551
Reaction score
733

He hasn't mentioned his shop specifically or isn't going "hey come buy trousers from me." I mean, it may have been worded a bit funny, but I think he was saying that his clients are requesting side-adjusters over belt loops more and wants to know if others have noticed that trend as well.


So why not come clean in the first instance and say that he is a tailor rather than deny that in Post 3 and admit it in Post 7? As a tailor comment such as Chris Despos, the worth is vastly increased by a simple explanation.

Another tailor could be a valuable contribution if a skilled craftsman with his own work room ie not just someone who measures in shop for MTM.
 
Last edited:

PASstudy

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
142
Reaction score
60
So why not come clean in the first instance and say that he is a tailor rather than deny that in Post 3 and admit it in Post 7? As a tailor comment such as Chris Despos, the worth is vastly increased by a simple explanation.
Another tailor could be a valuable contribution if a skilled craftsman with his own work room ie not just someone who measures in shop for MTM.



Read his initial reply (3#). "No, I am not advertising. Just looking to start a conversation with other members. I am new to the forum, recommended to join by another long time member. Thanks!" No where in that statement doe the poster deny being a tailor. He/she simply denies using his/her post to solicit or advertise.

If they are are tailor and do not wish to admit it, what does it matter? Frankie says relax.
 

Franc Lloyd

Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2012
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Great observation! Bigger lapel allows for more of a pronounced silhouette (Read: Jackets with more tapered stomach, waist-lines). However, I think, Tom Ford has taken this idea to an extreme with his ultra-large peak lapels etc. 3-inch wide lapel (notch or peak) usually would suffice for an average-sized man.
 

loarbmhs

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Messages
507
Reaction score
440
Yeah I'd totally agree with you on that - I would certainly go for side adjusters over a belt - think it looks cleaner and it's also a bit of a bespoke detail. I also think that patterned trousers with a conservative shirt are a great way to set yourself apart without looking to loud or forward but you really need to find that "Goldilocks Zone"

Have you noticed a trend with cuff size at all? From what I've seen certain guys who do wear cuffed trousers are getting them put at anything up to 2.5", way bigger than I've seen in the past. I think it can look great on tall thin guys but large cuffs can look out of proportion on shorter guys.
Just a (pointless) related thought actually - is there some form of rule for your own height related to the most flattering cuff size? Or do you put cuffs on purely in line with client preference?

Regarding cuff size, Alan Flusser recommends 1 5/8" for men up to 5'10", and 1 3/4" for men over 5' 10".
 
Last edited:

mason

Timed Out
Timed Out
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Messages
57
Reaction score
3
The beltless trouser looks cleaner and I have to admit it makes me look trimmer around the waist so my entire look is seamless.
 

Featured Sponsor

Do You Consider Sustainability When Purchasing Clothes?

  • Always - Sustainability is a top priority in all my clothing purchases.

  • Often - I frequently consider sustainability, but it isn't the main factor in my decisions.

  • Rarely - I seldom consider sustainability when purchasing clothes.

  • Never - Sustainability is not a factor I consider in my clothing choices.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
510,309
Messages
10,618,750
Members
225,195
Latest member
scottish_guy
Top