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Bespoke Trousers: Current Trend

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Franc Lloyd, Jul 18, 2012.

  1. Franc Lloyd

    Franc Lloyd Member

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    Jul 1, 2012
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Seeing an uptick of requests from clients demanding old-school, retro-looking side-adjusters (a.k.a. buckles) with their bespoke trousers. With no loops on the waistband, belts are rendered useless. Brighter colors and "busier" patterns are certainly on the rise. Pants have a certain minimalist (neat and clean) feel to them and they pair well with a nice, solid-colored dress shirt (lighter color).

    Such details, obviously, aren't always available in the off-the-rack merchandise and allows clients to express their individual personality - For example, notice the sliced, monogrammed pockets. These sartorial features are, by no means, new and have been popular in the past. "Times are a-changing," sang Bob Dylan. But in a circular fashion, it appears.

    Would love to hear your comments, concerns, suggestions and feedback. Thanks!
     
  2. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Are you advertising these/your services as a tailor?
     
  3. Franc Lloyd

    Franc Lloyd Member

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    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    No, I am not advertising. Just looking to start a conversation with other members. I am new to the forum, recommended to join by another long time member. Thanks!
     
  4. Needsmoreshoes

    Needsmoreshoes Senior member

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    Yeah I'd totally agree with you on that - I would certainly go for side adjusters over a belt - think it looks cleaner and it's also a bit of a bespoke detail. I also think that patterned trousers with a conservative shirt are a great way to set yourself apart without looking to loud or forward but you really need to find that "Goldilocks Zone"

    Have you noticed a trend with cuff size at all? From what I've seen certain guys who do wear cuffed trousers are getting them put at anything up to 2.5", way bigger than I've seen in the past. I think it can look great on tall thin guys but large cuffs can look out of proportion on shorter guys.
    Just a (pointless) related thought actually - is there some form of rule for your own height related to the most flattering cuff size? Or do you put cuffs on purely in line with client preference?
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. Franc Lloyd

    Franc Lloyd Member

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    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    The revival of the cuff, yes! Totally noticing that along with the ankle-bearing, "clam-digger on Cape Cod" hem. Wholeheartedly agree that stubbier men should stay clear of over-sized cuffs - totally counter-productive.
    As for your question, generally its best to play it by ear, case-by-case, depending on the length and girth of the individual. After all, its custom and, like you said, client's preference should always be accounted for.
     
  6. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Your opening form of words seem very strange then.

    "Seeing an uptick of requests from clients demanding old-school, retro-looking side-adjusters (a.k.a. buckles) with their bespoke trousers. "

    Whose clients?
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2012
  7. Franc Lloyd

    Franc Lloyd Member

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    Words seem very strange? Hmm, pleading guilty as charged, your honor!
     
  8. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    Location:
    Boston
    People moving towards looser (but still slim) tailored pants, no belt with higher rise -- pleats coming back as well. Suiting more classic, larger lapel -- pendulum swinging back from the "skinny" insanity. Athletes wearing TF etcetera.

    Pretty stoked about the beltless pants and larger lapels myself : - )
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  9. brokencycle

    brokencycle Senior member

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    He hasn't mentioned his shop specifically or isn't going "hey come buy trousers from me." I mean, it may have been worded a bit funny, but I think he was saying that his clients are requesting side-adjusters over belt loops more and wants to know if others have noticed that trend as well.
     
  10. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    So why not come clean in the first instance and say that he is a tailor rather than deny that in Post 3 and admit it in Post 7? As a tailor comment such as Chris Despos, the worth is vastly increased by a simple explanation.

    Another tailor could be a valuable contribution if a skilled craftsman with his own work room ie not just someone who measures in shop for MTM.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2012
  11. PASstudy

    PASstudy Senior member

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    Jul 5, 2012


    Read his initial reply (3#). "No, I am not advertising. Just looking to start a conversation with other members. I am new to the forum, recommended to join by another long time member. Thanks!" No where in that statement doe the poster deny being a tailor. He/she simply denies using his/her post to solicit or advertise.

    If they are are tailor and do not wish to admit it, what does it matter? Frankie says relax.
     
  12. Franc Lloyd

    Franc Lloyd Member

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    Location:
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    Great observation! Bigger lapel allows for more of a pronounced silhouette (Read: Jackets with more tapered stomach, waist-lines). However, I think, Tom Ford has taken this idea to an extreme with his ultra-large peak lapels etc. 3-inch wide lapel (notch or peak) usually would suffice for an average-sized man.
     
  13. loarbmhs

    loarbmhs Senior member

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    Regarding cuff size, Alan Flusser recommends 1 5/8" for men up to 5'10", and 1 3/4" for men over 5' 10".
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2012
  14. AbeFroeman

    AbeFroeman Well-Known Member

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    Mar 31, 2012
    ...really anything but the RTW 1" cuff.
     
  15. mason

    mason Well-Known Member

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    Jan 24, 2012
    The beltless trouser looks cleaner and I have to admit it makes me look trimmer around the waist so my entire look is seamless.
     
  16. StumpjumperE

    StumpjumperE Senior member

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    Aug 21, 2012
    I'm not nearly as knowledgeable about style as the vast majority of people on this site, and must confess, I would've thought it a big 'no-no' to go beltless (I immediately think 'sansabelt' trousers lol), but have to say, now that I've seen it a good bit, I really like the look!
     
  17. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    Jan 18, 2010
    I've recently gone to beltless with braces for my suit pants (another thing I didn't think I'd ever do before SF) and it's a huge improvement in both look and comfort (IMHO). No, wearing a belt isn't like wearing a hairshirt but braces are more comfortable for me.

    I do use belts for my odd trousers, and all my odd trousers are RTW. I figured that odd trousers are usually a more relaxed look, but the more I wear braces the less I want to wear belts. I may get brace buttons added to the odd trousers and remove the belt loops...
     
  18. Itsuo

    Itsuo Senior member

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    Oct 2, 2012
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    I'm considering the idea of ordering bespoke trousers. I usually wear the incotex comfortchino but I have so much trouble finding them in a color I want and also in the right size that I might just convert.

    Is it common to order a pair of trousers with braces but also ask for the belt loops to be included on the side that way they can be swapped in the future? I know it seems excessive but I'm just not sure about wearing trousers with braces when you're not wearing a jacket... So I might change my mind and want the option of going back.
     
  19. Millerp

    Millerp Senior member

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    Feb 3, 2004
    


    It may not be common, but if the trousers are truly bespoke, you should be able to order anything you want.
     
  20. jimhones

    jimhones Active Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 8, 2012
    Are you purposely mis-reading what the OP wrote? This is a discussion board for men's clothing is it not?
     

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