Bespoke Three Piece Suit

[cypher]

Hi everyone!

I'm going to be moving to India for the next 8 months for work and have have come to notice that bespoke clothing is quite reasonably priced here and want to get some suits made. The problem is that they don't make you stand on a pedestal and use pins to measure you out. They just measure you with tape and go ahead with the suit and then call you back in for a trial and then make alterations. So I was wondering if you could give me some tips as to what to tell the tailor about the vest. I was thinking of getting a slim black 2 button, double vented, notched lapel, 3 piece suit with a six button vest with side tabs and four buttons on the jacket sleeve. Also I'm 5'8", 160 lb.

Some questions:

1. What should be the length of the vest?
2. What color/pattern/design should be back of the vest?
3. What color/material lining would you recommend?
4. How much of the vest should show then the jacket is buttoned(to help mel ook taller)?
5. Would you recommend going with five buttons on the jacket sleeve?
6. What width(super slim/slim/regular) would you recommend for the lapel to help me look slimmer?
7. Should the color of the vest and the jacket be the same?
8. Anything else that needs to be mentioned to the tailor?

Thanks for taking the time read guys. Would really appreciate the advice. TIA

 

[chorse123]

Originally Posted by cypher

3. What color/material lining would you recommend? 5. Would you recommend going with five buttons on the jacket sleeve? 7. Should the color of the vest and the jacket be the same? 8. Anything else that needs to be mentioned to the tailor? Thanks for taking the time read guys. Would really appreciate the advice. TIA
Just go with something complimentary. I think wacky linings can grow tiresome. No. I think 5 buttons wouldn't be good. Yes, that's what makes it a 3-piece, not a suit and odd vest. I've found that while some of the Indian guys (I used Vaish in Delhi) are technically proficient, the styling leaves a lot to be desired. A suit is a work of art and they fell short there. I would try to have many fittings and know exactly what you want. Maybe bring pictures or, if you can, something you have that you already like.

 

[Zenny]

1. The vest should be slightly past your belt, so that your waist and belt is completely hidden when you are wearing the vest, it should be just one seamless visual transition to the pants.

2. Try to get a self backed vest, i.e. the vest is backed by the same fabric as the front. If not possible, just get a satin fabric in the closest colour of the pants.


3. Personally I like wacky linings (which I havent got tired of yet.), but its completely personal. You can be safe with a similar shade (black or grey)


4. I'd prefer to have maybe 1 - 3 buttons of the vest showing from the top, and a button stance that doesnt cut your body in half.


5. Five buttons seems like a bit much, id go with 4. If the sleeve length is perfect (1/2" - 1" cuff visible) then you can get working buttonholes.


6. Personally I'm a slim guy and short, so I go with slim lapels, but not overly skinny such that they are just as wide as the lapel buttonhole.


7. Yes the vest should be made of the same cloth as the jacket (and pants too

)


8.
Make sure you specify the fit you want, i.e. a trim fit or a roomier fit.
Make sure to stress that the armholes are high, (or a shallow arm scye depth).
The length of the jacket should not cut your body in half but you should be able to cup your hands under it when they are at your side.
If you have trim legs and arms, get the sleeves tapered appropriately.
Specify the type and number of pockets you want on the jacket, pants and vest.
I'd keep the vest cut very trim and close to the body.

 

[globetrotter]

also, there are tens of thousands of tailors in india, I would stick with 3 - kachins in mumbai, vaish in delhi and there is one in Chennai whose name I can't remember (but if you are in chennai I will find it). those are really a cut above, and while more expensive they are still a lot cheaper than in the west.

 

[cypher]

Thanks for the tips fellas! I'm going to be living in hyderabad, any good tailors there?

 

[Douglas]

You should find out where the guy who posted this thread went. He may have some good advice.

 

[OxxfordSJLINY]

Originally Posted by globetrotter

also, there are tens of thousands of tailors in india, I would stick with 3 - kachins in mumbai, vaish in delhi and there is one in Chennai whose name I can't remember (but if you are in chennai I will find it). those are really a cut above, and while more expensive they are still a lot cheaper than in the west.

Are there really tens of thousands of tailors in India? I had no idea that there was that much demand for bespoke clothing there. It is like the old saying goes, you learn something new everyday.

 

[unexpected]

okay, firstly let's not call it bespoke...

Most tailors in India are MTM. I've never seen a true "bespoke" tailor, in the Saville Row sense of the word.

There are tons of tailors in India b/c that's how suits are usually done. Until recently, India hasn't had department stores or any place to get decent suits.

How do you think Americans got suits in the early 1900's? India basically hasn't changed since then.

That being said, I've had 5-6 suits made in India, and I'm not really happy with any of them. They have no concept of fashion or style or design. Most of their suits are worn by a middle class Indian worker who's earning like $5000 USD a year.

India still hasn't had a "Hong Kong" moment where tailors get wise and start catering exclusively to the West and to the upper class.

If you really want to do this, take suits that you already like. Take pictures of the fit you want. Be very, very, patient. Request multiple fittings. Be very aggressive with what you want. Research heavily beforehand, become intimate with how suits are made. Take everything the tailor says with a grain of salt- their typical customer has a way, way, way, different mission than the typical SF member.

My biggest complaints with the tailors I've encountered (i've tried 4 different ones):

1) None of them have ever heard of working buttonholes. Crazy.

2) It's a constant battle to get everything fitted properly. I'm not talking about TaT fitted, but just like a standard suit. Most indian suits are designed to be worn as winter coats, and thus they have space for thick, heavy sweaters. Every tailor I talked to wanted to include space for a thick sweater, even though I kept telling them that I had no intention to ever wear a sweater underneath.

Anyway, good luck. Keep your expectations low. I would start off with a cheap fabric first, just to get the fit right. You can get suits for $150.

If you end up finding a good tailor, report back. This question is starting to come up a lot!

 

[Douglas]

Originally Posted by unexpected

How do you think Americans got suits in the early 1900's? India basically hasn't changed since then.

Well, I wouldn't say that India hasn't changed since then. Maybe I'd say more that, in some certain economic respects, India today is like America and Europe were during their industrialization phase.

Still, all your points are very valid and well-stated. I think people here don't realize that tailors are how most average people have their clothes made in other parts of the world.

 

[unexpected]

Douglas, meant that in a "how we get our clothes made" way, not a "omg, india's a 3rd world country" way.

Times are changing in my fatherland! 10 - 20 years, most of these tailors are going to be out of business as everyone starts buying things from all the malls poppin' up.

 

[Holdfast]

Originally Posted by chorse123

I've found that while some of the Indian guys (I used Vaish in Delhi) are technically proficient, the styling leaves a lot to be desired. A suit is a work of art and they fell short there.

I agree from what I've seen from India-based tailors. It's OK in that it sort of fits, but never seems to have "a soul".

 

[Douglas]

Originally Posted by unexpected

Douglas, meant that in a "how we get our clothes made" way, not a "omg, india's a 3rd world country" way.

Times are changing in my fatherland! 10 - 20 years, most of these tailors are going to be out of business as everyone starts buying things from all the malls poppin' up.

I'm sure you did - I was making a minor quibble with your phrasing, is all. Perhaps I was being overly PC.

 

[cypher]

Originally Posted by Douglas

You should find out where the guy who posted this thread went. He may have some good advice.

Wow! That thread was depressing...

Could you guys give me some input on how to make the suit not suck as much as that guys, the finer details, like..

1. Lapel roll as opposed to a flat lapel

2. Position of arm holes

3. Working button holes

4. Button stance on jacket and vest

5. Rise on pants and tapering

6. Jacket pockets

7. Cut of the vest so it doesn't look like a "Cleric's"

8. Position on the notch in the lapel

8. Side tabs vs. single rear tab on vest

9. Side tabs vs. belt loops on pants

10. ???

 

[unexpected]

This should get you started...

http://www.atailoredsuit.com/mens-st...ored-suit.html

 

[classicgrey]

I could be wrong, but I feel like six buttons on a vest for a guy that is 5-8 is one too many.