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Bespoke tailors: Sydney or San Fran?

mezentius

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Hello gents;

I'm a relative new to caring about what I wear, and a newcomer to SF as well. I have to say, I have enjoyed my baby steps, however haphazard, into this area, and lurking here has been very helpful in learning about the basics thanks to you guys. Although I have a few suits and jackets OTR which fit me reasonably well, I've given in to the consensus around here and thus I'm looking to move into bespoke suits and jackets, which presents me with a more specific inquiry.

I will be moving from Sydney to San Francisco for 6 months to study, so I have the option of having these made in either city. What are SFer's opinions about this? I'm willing to drop a decent amount (3-4k, perhaps more if the quality is worth it) into a suit, and perhaps get some vests, jackets and a coat made on the side if things go well. In terms of style, I'm not getting these for a corporate job, so I have more freedom than being limited to a business suit, and I don't really want to look like someone out of American Psycho. I should point out that although I have a rough idea of what I'm looking for, I am still a novice at these things, so if a tailor who is happy to assist on that front would be a plus.

I've done some research on SF, and I have a rough idea of tailor names in Sydney (Cutler, Adamo, Alacqua). However, the only name which pops up consistently for tailors in San Francisco is Jon Minor. I would have thought that San Fran, being a larger city in Sydney, would have more notable tailors? I'm also under the impression that getting things done in Sydney would be substantially more expensive than in San Fran; please correct me if I'm wrong.

Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

mezentius

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Since this only has 7 views, I'm going to give it a bump. Any advice would be appreciated!
 

comrade

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Hello gents; I'm a relative new to caring about what I wear, and a newcomer to SF as well. I have to say, I have enjoyed my baby steps, however haphazard, into this area, and lurking here has been very helpful in learning about the basics thanks to you guys. Although I have a few suits and jackets OTR which fit me reasonably well, I've given in to the consensus around here and thus I'm looking to move into bespoke suits and jackets, which presents me with a more specific inquiry. I will be moving from Sydney to San Francisco for 6 months to study, so I have the option of having these made in either city. What are SFer's opinions about this? I'm willing to drop a decent amount (3-4k, perhaps more if the quality is worth it) into a suit, and perhaps get some vests, jackets and a coat made on the side if things go well. In terms of style, I'm not getting these for a corporate job, so I have more freedom than being limited to a business suit, and I don't really want to look like someone out of American Psycho. I should point out that although I have a rough idea of what I'm looking for, I am still a novice at these things, so if a tailor who is happy to assist on that front would be a plus. I've done some research on SF, and I have a rough idea of tailor names in Sydney (Cutler, Adamo, Alacqua) . However, the only name which pops up consistently for tailors in San Francisco is Jon Minor. I would have thought that San Fran, being a larger city in Sydney, would have more notable tailors? I'm also under the impression that getting things done in Sydney would be substantially more expensive than in San Fran; please correct me if I'm wrong. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated. Jon Minor ruined a pair of slacks I purchased from Cordings in London about 15 years ago. In adition to his incompetence, he is a tempermental "artiste" who is full of himself and consequently exaperating to deal with. Stay away from him! Some local SF members might disagree, but basically there are NO REAL bespoke tailors in San Francisco, period. The really well-dressed SF members who attend or have attended SF Meet-Ups since I have been attending ( 2009) get their Bespoke clothing from Chan, Fallan and Harvey (Davies), NSM, Rubinacci, Steed, all based in Hong Kong or Europe. If you must get American bespoke, New York has the largest concentration to true bespoke practitioners.
 
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Millerp

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First of all, Sydney (pop over four million) is a much larger city than San Francisco (pop less than one million).

Unless you are an odd size or extremely hard to fit, you may not need true bespoke. You can get high quality
American made MTM eg Oxxford from high end stores in San Francisco.














.........
 
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tchoy

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Welcome to the forum!

I can't advise you on tailors in San Francisco as I am a Sydney sider myself. A few members here who are from San Franciso have their garments made from travelling tailors. I guessed there aren't too many tailors left in SF.

I have used Cutler and Adamo in Sydney in the past, Cutler will be out of your price range plus his tailors have all left and set up their own shop.
Have a look at these guys here http://www.lengbespoke.com.au/index.html
They used to do all Cutlers work but now have set up their own shop. You can also do CMT to save a few dollars.
Also there is Bijan Bespoke in Sydney http://www.bespokebijan.com.au/bijan.html, he is a ex Hunstman tailor but he may be out of your price range.
 

JTA

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Welcome to the forum!

I can't advise you on tailors in San Francisco as I am a Sydney sider myself. A few members here who are from San Franciso have their garments made from travelling tailors. I guessed there aren't too many tailors left in SF.

I have used Cutler and Adamo in Sydney in the past, Cutler will be out of your price range plus his tailors have all left and set up their own shop.
Have a look at these guys here http://www.lengbespoke.com.au/index.html
They used to do all Cutlers work but now have set up their own shop. You can also do CMT to save a few dollars.
Also there is Bijan Bespoke in Sydney http://www.bespokebijan.com.au/bijan.html, he is a ex Hunstman tailor but he may be out of your price range.

Couldn't agree for more with this suggestion.

My friend took me to Leng's workshop for a visit and seen firsthand the handmade bespoke. Beautiful.
Leng is also a lovely guy and listens to you, plus he has eyes to see what style and cut will be good for you.

Aside of the ones have been mentioned above, other bespoke tailors based in Sydney are Sam Disano in Parramatta (never tried him), Hayel & Sons (no longer doing bespoke but who knows you may entice him to do one for you) and Maher Haddad (was the head tailor of a major retailer in Sydney) of M&R Tailoring & Alteration.

Alternatively if you don't mind with the MTM route then Patrick Johnson is quite popular with some Australian members.

Post pics and let us know your experience if you try any of them!
 

mezentius

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Hello again;

Thanks for all the informative replies! Millerp, I was still using the Australian notion of a city, which would include the Bay area as well. Pardon the confusion.

JTA, I'm very interested in the entire process of bespoke, as I quite enjoy crafting things myself; thus I'm not really looking for MTM.

So after some more lurking, I've decided that Sydney would be the place to get it done, for long-term plans if nothing else. You are quite right about Cutler being above my price range. What about Bijan? I am not averse to dropping another grand on a suit if the results are unable to be obtained elsewhere; but I have been unable to find any substantial discussion of Bijan here or elsewhere. I was thinking that I should take some jackets I recently inherited to Alacqua, Leng and Adamo for alterations and have a chat about their styles; should I add Bijan to the list as well?
 
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tchoy

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should I add Bijan to the list as well?

Most definitely only issues don't expect your suit in a hurry unless you push him along. He is semi-retired and only produces around 50 suits a year. The style is more English he uses light canvassing and very little shoulder pads. Just google member here incontro, a lot of his suits is made by Bijan and he has some of the best fit on the forum.

Here is one of mine recent ones by Bijan http://lindenway.tumblr.com/post/49410391943/london-lounge-pow-check-brisa-suit


 
 

Dempsy444

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I'm not sure what your expectations are and how good the tailors in Sydney are, but i wouldnt say San Francisco has strong tailors. I've used Seymour's but the work is only so so. The other tailors are mainly made to measure. Definitely not worth going out of your way for in the short six months you are here. I would save your sartorial adventures for another city.

If you like food though, you're in for a treat.
 

chogall

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You won't get a bespoke suit made in SF within 6 months as traveling tailors visit SF semi or tri annually.

MTM, you could visit Beckett & Rob.

Welcome to the sartorial waste land.
 
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sliq

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Most definitely only issues don't expect your suit in a hurry unless you push him along. He is semi-retired and only produces around 50 suits a year. The style is more English he uses light canvassing and very little shoulder pads. Just google member here incontro, a lot of his suits is made by Bijan and he has some of the best fit on the forum.

Here is one of mine recent ones by Bijan http://lindenway.tumblr.com/post/49410391943/london-lounge-pow-check-brisa-suit
+1 for Bijan. i haven't any of his suits but have seen many of the suits he produces when i visit him. he's moving workshops soon, so best for you to touch base with him and get the ball rolling.
 

OxxfordSJLINY

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I'm not sure what your expectations are and how good the tailors in Sydney are, but i wouldnt say San Francisco has strong tailors. I've used Seymour's but the work is only so so. The other tailors are mainly made to measure. Definitely not worth going out of your way for in the short six months you are here. I would save your sartorial adventures for another city.

If you like food though, you're in for a treat.

Yes, San Francisco having crappy tailors only (all of whom are a bunch of clowns doing MTM and passing it off as bespoke) is that city's biggest weakness.

Still, I would love to live in SFCA but family responsibilities and needs force me to stay on this bad weather ridden (particularly in the winter time) dump called Long Island, New York (but that is a whole other topic).

On the flip side of the coin, at least we have easy access to 90 something percent of this countries good bespoke accessory, clothing and shoe makers that truly are bespoke (and not those clownish "bespoke" tailors that are just MTM tailors in SF that I speak of). However, even LI and NYC don't have anywhere near the number of good bespoke accessory, clothing and shoe makers that truly are bespoke (and not those clownish "bespoke" makers that are just MTO or MTM) that England, Italy and Japan have. In these 3 countries, no matter where you are, you are never more than 10 miles away from the true artisans. In fact, England, Italy and Japan are equally the future of these true artisans that I speak of. Many other people on Style Forum and all of the other fashion and style message boards (all of whom have done extensive research like I have done myself) absolutely agree with and know all of the above.
 
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JTA

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Mate, at the end of the day it's your decision.

My two cents. Personally I like Adamo's for the jacket and Leng for the trousers however if you're big on fully handmade bespoke garment, then either Adamo, Cutler or Leng will be good depending on your preferences.
Heard good stories about Sam Disano from a member here and have spoken in person to both Hayel and Maher.. quite confident they know their trade and have the necessary skills to pull bespoke.

Please be mindful that I don't have the opportunity to see, try or touch Bijan, Hayel, Sam or Maher suits firsthand, contrary to Cutler, Adamo, Leng and PJ that I've the chance firsthand.
 

Dempsy444

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Yes, San Francisco having crappy tailors only (all of whom are a bunch of clowns doing MTM and passing it off as bespoke) is that city's biggest weakness.

Still, I would love to live in SFCA but family responsibilities and needs force me to stay on this bad weather ridden (particularly in the winter time) dump called Long Island, New York (but that is a whole other topic).

On the flip side of the coin, at least we have easy access to 90 something percent of this countries good bespoke accessory, clothing and shoe makers that truly are bespoke (and not those clownish "bespoke" tailors that are just MTM tailors in SF that I speak of). However, even LI and NYC don't have anywhere near the number of good bespoke accessory, clothing and shoe makers that truly are bespoke (and not those clownish "bespoke" makers that are just MTO or MTM) that England, Italy and Japan have. In these 3 countries, no matter where you are, you are never more than 10 miles away from the true artisans. In fact, England, Italy and Japan are equally the future of these true artisans that I speak of. Many other people on Style Forum and all of the other fashion and style message boards (all of whom have done extensive research like I have done myself) absolutely agree with and know all of the above.

Didn't know that about Japan.
 

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