Bespoke Summer Suit - Partial Lining?

[Boshuda]

I am having two bespoke summer suits made - one in a tan fresco wool and the other in a navy cotton-wool blend. I get very hot in the summer and tend to sweat a lot, so I’m looking for the suits to be as cool as possible yet I still need them to “work.” I’ve chosen to get the suits only half-lined instead of fully lined so that they remain as cool as possible.

Am I making a mistake?

 

[ahtynes]

No, you'll be fine. I get my summer stuff half or quarter lined.

 

[brax]

Getting a fresco fully lined defeats its purpose. Stay with 1/2 or 1/4 lined. I do it on all of my summer stuff except business suits.

 

[Thomson]

Isn‘t fresco a bit transparent if unlined? Esp. when wearing a white shirt?

 

[brax]

Isn‘t fresco a bit transparent if unlined? Esp. when wearing a white shirt?

That's why it isn't totally unlined. The upper back and a portion of the fronts quarters (and sleeves, of course) are lined. Basically anything that is in heavy contact with the shirt.

 

[Despos]

I am having two bespoke summer suits made - one in a tan fresco wool and the other in a navy cotton-wool blend. I get very hot in the summer and tend to sweat a lot, so I’m looking for the suits to be as cool as possible yet I still need them to “work.” I’ve chosen to get the suits only half-lined instead of fully lined so that they remain as cool as possible.

Am I making a mistake?

Big fan of cotton/wool blend cloth. What cloth is it and where did you get it?

 

[Thomson]

That's why it isn't totally unlined. The upper back and a portion of the fronts quarters (and sleeves, of course) are lined. Basically anything that is in heavy contact with the shirt.

Thanks, that’s helpful.

 

[BXpress]

Getting a fresco fully lined defeats its purpose. Stay with 1/2 or 1/4 lined. I do it on all of my summer stuff except business suits.

Well, on Saturday i ordered my fully lined 11oz Fresco Sport Coat at my MTM Tailor. I don't care about hot or cool, i just like the Fabric and a lining give some stability to the back. I really don't like that paper bag in the wind look of the unlined backs i see, especially with thin summer fabric.

 

[bdavro23]

Big fan of cotton/wool blend cloth. What cloth is it and where did you get it?

The coolest wearing, and one of the nicest feeling suits I've ever had, is a Zegna cotton/ wool blend suit. Great hand and drape and very cool wearing. I have kept an eye out for fabric suppliers who produce blends like this and havent found a consistent source. Do you have a recommendation?

 

[The J]

The coolest wearing, and one of the nicest feeling suits I've ever had, is a Zegna cotton/ wool blend suit. Great hand and drape and very cool wearing. I have kept an eye out for fabric suppliers who produce blends like this and havent found a consistent source. Do you have a recommendation?

Check out the latest Holland & Sherry Oceania for some cotton/wool blend jacketings.

 

[bdavro23]

Check out the latest Holland & Sherry Oceania for some cotton/wool blend jacketings.

Hey, thanks for this recommendation. I will take a look.

I just got some of the Loro Piana books in for this season and they have a 5 ounce wool silk fabric in the collection. I am really tempted to make something out of it just because...

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

You're making the right choice in going half-lined. The fabric will only appear translucent if you hold it up to the light and shouldn't be noticeable when you're wearing it. But the jacket will definitely feel lighter and cooler.

 

[The J]

Hey, thanks for this recommendation. I will take a look.

I just got some of the Loro Piana books in for this season and they have a 5 ounce wool silk fabric in the collection. I am really tempted to make something out of it just because...

5oz! Can’t see myself wearing something so lightweight. I’m in tropical and subtropical countries myself, but anything below 240g are quite shapeless. But each to their own! Keen to see LP’s latest books when I get to.

 

[Boshuda]

Thanks all for the replies. This is very helpful and it looks like I made the right choice. This is my first foray into full bespoke - been all M2M to date - so excited to see how the suits turn out. The hardest part may be resisting the urge to buy more - bespoke is a pricey habit, particularly for suits that only get worn during one season of the year.

 

[The Chai]

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