Bespoke suit pattern matching advice needed

[GoneBabyGone]

I have commissioned a suit from a NYC tailor who has been mentioned several times on SF. The suit is blue with a thin red windowpane.

During my second fitting, I noticed that the pattern matching of the windowpane on the sleeves to the windowpane on the body was off – by a lot.

I mentioned this to the tailor who said, “If you expect me to recut the sleeves, I am not going to.”

At the time, I was rather surprised at his refusal but was so stunned by his response to me, I had none for him.

I do not expect him to recut the sleeves, and hence I will be “stuck” with a suit with poor pattern matching.

I have paid for half the price of the suit so far and would pay the remainder upon delivery.

How do you suggest I handle this?

 

[Despos]

Wow! Always a surprise to me when situations like this happen. Sorry, don't have any advice for you other than you you should be completely satisfied with a garment you have made for you.

 

[GradSchooler]

Go back and explain your concerns politely and try and iron it out with him.

If that doesn't work demand that he recut the sleeves and match the pattern. Explain to him that if you'd wanted a suit with poorly matched patterning you would have got one off the rack at Sears. You're paying a premium for bespoke service and the results should be of a kind with that expense.

I can't believe a professional tailor could make such a mistake, or that he'd be such a prick about it.

 

[Kuro]

Perhaps a noob question, but what should be expected with respect to pattern matching at the shoulder seam generally (front/back)? So for windowpanes, stripes, herringbones, etc.

Thanks.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by Kuro

Perhaps a noob question, but what should be expected with respect to pattern matching at the shoulder seam generally (front/back)? So for windowpanes, stripes, herringbones, etc.

Thanks.

Expect it not to match. It can be made to match but it is by compromising proper shoulder construction techniques. To match patterns on the shoulder you cannot put adequate fullness on the back part. I am compulsive about matching patterns but when it comes to the shoulder, no.

 

[Kuro]

Thanks, appreciate it.

 

[jack220]

Originally Posted by Despos

Expect it not to match. It can be made to match but it is by compromising proper shoulder construction techniques. To match patterns on the shoulder you cannot put adequate fullness on the back part. I am compulsive about matching patterns but when it comes to the shoulder, no.

Just shoulder seam front-back not to match?
What about armsyce seam pattern matching?

 

[Despos]

Horizontal patterns should match from the jacket body to the sleeve.

 

[jasonmarshalljazz]

I have a feeling I was there for this commission. If i am right about my having been there, then I'm moved to raise another issue. There are people who run more-than-adequate tailoring business and turn out more-than-decent garments and have many customers (likely a majority) who are quite satisfied with the garments they receive from said tailors. These customers tend not to be concerned with looking "great" but only looking "right". There tailors are similarly inclined. An issue like pattern matching would seem a trifling matter to such a tailor. He would be more concerned about the suit fitting "well" and little else. It might be time to find a tailor who is interested in dressing well and not just "making" suits. They are a different breed altogether.

 

[GoneBabyGone]

Thanks for the comments, but I am still at a loss for what to do.

If the tailor STILL does not offer to recut the sleeve, I certainly do not want to pay for a garment that does not "satisfy me completely," as poster Depos suggests. I am not at all a nit-picker, but the pattern matching is so off that it looks weird.

Perhaps one of the attorneys on this site can suggest a course of action?

 

[David Reeves]

Originally Posted by GoneBabyGone

Thanks for the comments, but I am still at a loss for what to do.

If the tailor STILL does not offer to recut the sleeve, I certainly do not want to pay for a garment that does not "satisfy me completely," as poster Depos suggests. I am not at all a nit-picker, but the pattern matching is so off that it looks weird.

Perhaps one of the attorneys on this site can suggest a course of action?

I dont think legal advice is needed. Just politely and respectfully tell him your really not happy about the pattern matching and would rather him recut the sleeves.

 

[SpooPoker]

Did you pay the deposit in cash, check, or credit card?

 

[GoneBabyGone]

Deposit was by credit card, but made several months ago. The tailor is in NYC and I have visited him when I am there on business.

Thus the credit card has been charged and it's done.

 

[SpooPoker]

Originally Posted by GoneBabyGone

Deposit was by credit card, but made several months ago. The tailor is in NYC and I have visited him when I am there on business.

Thus the credit card has been charged and it's done.

Perfect. If it gets ugly, you can do a chargeback.

 

[David Reeves]

Why would it get ugly? He gave the OP the option of recutting the sleeve. Just ask him to do it. I don't even know who you are talking about but I think it's awful how the default option on here is to Demonize people in the trade. Believe it or not I think most people go into this trade to make some money for themselves and their families and to make a good end product not to rip people off.