Bespoke suit from Savile Row London - A structured process to select the right tailor

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whatdahell, May 4, 2015.

  1. whatdahell

    whatdahell New Member

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    Dear fellow SFers,

    I've got two very specific questions regarding bespoke suits in London for you, but let me provide some background information first so this thread will also be useful for other members.

    Situation

    My current knowledge on bespoke is based on readings (both in this forum and on other sites). I do own MTM suits, the best of which in terms of quality is full canvas, glue-free, mostly sewn by hand.

    I am planning on getting a bespoke suit in London, probably from Savile Row, and am willing to spend up to 4500 pounds.

    There are some characteristics that this new bespoke suit should have:
    1. Structured construction (as opposed to soft)
    2. Roped shoulder (so no straight or natural shoulder)
    3. Between average to generous shoulder padding
    4. Full chest, i.e. relatively thick layers of chest piece
    5. Single-breasted suit

    Example pictures for those four characteristics are shown in the Appendix to this post.


    Questions

    When selecting a bespoke tailor for the new suit, I would start with characteristic 1., i.e. look which ones are well-known for a structured construction of their suits. From what I have read, such tailors would be Huntsman, Richard Anderson, Gieves and Hawkes, Dege and Skinner. Question A: Do any other bespoke tailors in London come to your mind who are well known for a structured construction of their suits?

    From the tailors selected via characteristic 1, I would go on to characteristic 2, from there to 3, and so forth. I assume that any bespoke tailor of the ones mentioned before would be able to somehow do characteristics 2 to 5. However, selecting a tailor whose "house style" comes closest to the suit I am imagining might improve the final result. Question B: In particular, do you know whether the bespoke tailors mentioned above would all be easily able to change the thickness of the chest piece while still achieving a great final result? I am asking that because I assume tailors are not very often asked for a particular make of the chest piece, while different shoulders as well as paddings may be requested a lot among different clients.


    Next steps

    After narrowing down the choice of tailors, I will visit them in-person to figure out which one I see in the best position to achieve the characteristics above. Also, I will find out with which tailor I can envision working together on the way to my next suit.

    Cheers!



    Appendix

    These are example pictures for the characteristics mentioned above:

    1. Structured construction
    [​IMG]

    2. Roped shoulder
    [​IMG]


    3. Average to generous shoulder padding
    [​IMG]

    4. Full chest
    [​IMG]
     


  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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  3. MeachamLake

    MeachamLake Senior member

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    Definitely Anderson & Sheppard then…just kidding.[​IMG]

    Edward Sexton might be what you're after. Brilliant stuff if you're into the style which it sounds like you are!

    [​IMG]

    Ignore the fabrics and gigantic lapels (although he does generally favour big lapels) here and you can see his trademark silhouette in action:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2015


  4. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Dege and Skinner, Davies, certainly not A and S. You would be as well considering those who specialise in military uniforms as well as they would be more familiar with what you require.
     


  5. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    Davies and Son would be a good place to look, I quite agree.
     


  6. clivecollett

    clivecollett New Member

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    Certainly visit Chittleborough and Morgan. Very structured, roped shoulder, great attention to detail and quality and very stylish in the "Nutters" tradition. Prices start from £4000 for a two piece suit.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     


  7. Frog in Suit

    Frog in Suit Senior member

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    Meyer & Mortimer (http://www.meyerandmortimer.com) are in the military tradition, probably slightly less expensive than some others. They seem to meet all your stated "style" criteria .

    Highly recommended. I have been their customer for more than seven years now.

    If you need further information, do not hesitate to ask.

    Frog in Suit
     


  8. whatdahell

    whatdahell New Member

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    Thanks guys, very helpful! [​IMG]
     


  9. Sbiking

    Sbiking New Member

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    My process has been smilar to yours. I have through the years had quite a few MTM suits and jackets made and been mostly disappointed, untill recently. Finally I found two MTM suppliers that gives great results. However, seeing as this illustrated to me the potential when getting it completely right, it made me really want a full bespoke suit. That, and the fact that I have dreamt of a Savile Row suit for 20 years (dreams take time to come to fruition).

    ANyway, I was looking for the same characteristics as you and eventually decided on Chittleborough and Morgan.

    I cannot praise them highly enough. Michael Broowne has been great to work with and I am extremely happy with the whole process.

    I recently picked up the finished suit, and I am even more pleased with the result.

    In other words, I would recommend C & M.
     


  10. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Can you post pics? I came very close to using them but some of the pics I saw here made me steer clear. Would love the see some better examples.
     


  11. pwc008

    pwc008 Active Member

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    Why the criticism for A&S? I am not challenging you, I just want to understand more for the day when I am ready to have a suit made in London. I have always believed that A&S's "soft" tailoring would suit and fit me very well given that my 2 most comfortable and well fitting suits are the 2 Cifonelli's I had MTM at Saks in 2002-2003. The jackets on these are so comfortable that I feel like I am wearing a sweater, not a jacket. Anyway, thanks in advance.
     


  12. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    ^ the OP wants structured construction with a roped shoulder. That is antithetical to what A&S does.
     


  13. pwc008

    pwc008 Active Member

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    I understand. I like soft tailoring, so it sounds like A&S is the way to go for me.

    Thank you.
     


  14. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    If you use them please post and start a new thread. I've been hoping someone would chime in with recent AS experience.
     


  15. pwc008

    pwc008 Active Member

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    I wish! Hopefully not to far in the future.
     


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