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Bespoke Suit Fabric

Joefitz

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What fabric should I choose for a wool bespoke suit. I will be wearing the suit 1-2 times a week for work. I need a suit that will last and not wrinkle easily. At the same time, I want a very nice suit that will really make an impression. What thread count, weight, or fabric brands would work? I live in California, so I don't need a warm suit. I would rather not go flannel, nor do I want a fabric with a shine. Thank you for your help.
 

mintchox

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Try the Harrison’s Mystique or Lesser 8-9 oz. Those would be great hot weather suits. If you can deal with something warmer, the Holland & Sherry Crispaire is also good.
 

Joefitz

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Thank you! Is there a sweet spot with thread count? I understand that high thread counts are quite luxurious, but that they can snag and wrinkle easily. At the same time, I want a really special suit.
 

mintchox

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I’d go for a good fabric from a reputable mill without focusing much (or at all) on the Super Count, which may not be apparent when looking at the fabric books.

In any case, fabrics in the Super 100s and 120s can be very nice quality.

Start by comparing the ones I mentioned with some other books.
 

mintchox

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I’d also advise you to err on the side of choosing a more affordable fabric to start with (the ones I’ve mentioned are mid price, I wouldn’t choose anything more expensive yet). You’re likely to find areas that can be improved in your first bespoke suit.

As for colour, pick dark blue or dark grey to start with for maximum versatility.
 

thomas_finney

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Hey joefitz. The most classic answer to this question is Super 120s wool. Its a light to mid weight dependable everyday fabric. Aim for 240-280 grams. A bit more interesting option would be a twisted wool cloth, check out images here, which will also travel well, resist wrinkles, and keep you cool. For twisted wool check out the Explorer book from Standeven (310g option at the back of the book is best) or Fresco from Huddersfield (1ply or 2ply). Lastly, consider a mohair/wool blend, images here. mohair is great in hot climates since it does not trap heat. It also comes in some cool tonik colors. Hope this helps!

THOMAS FINNEY
www.thomasfinney.com
@thomas_finney
 
Last edited:

SZNettles

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If you are wearing this 1-2 times a week, I could not recommend staying away from a "luxury" fabric enough. You will wear that suit out before a year is over possibly even less. You need to stick with possibly minnis/ vbc fresco or 120 or 110s.
 

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