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Bespoke Suit Button Question

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Phildominator, Nov 23, 2004.

  1. Phildominator

    Phildominator Member

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    I got a custom made suit made in China - single breasted, 2 button. The tailor made the distance between the buttons 12 cm. It looks weird to me. I measured my other American-bought jackets and the button distance measures 9 cm.

    Is there a standard measurement for the distance between jacket buttons? If I were to get a 3 button suit made, would the distance be the same as the 2 button suit (9cm) or less (maybe 7.5 cm)?

    FYI, I'm a pretty standard fellow at 5'8" 160 lbs.
     


  2. Alias

    Alias Distinguished Member

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    The distance between the buttons depends on the cut of the suit, which in turn depends on the person wearing it. American two-button suits, to my knowledge, have their buttons placed rather low and close together. I've learned through personal experience that buttons placed close together tend to emphasize the waist, while buttons spaced wider give the suit a more columnar appearance.
     


  3. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Distinguished Member

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    There is no standard measurement at all.

    The distance will hinge on the "button stance" - i.e. how high the buttons are up the jacket. In the 80s, button stance was very low, and thus on a two button suit, the buttons were very close.

    Today, a high button stance is in style. Your suit is currently in style, with the top button is higher up the jacket. therefore it makes sense for there to be greater distance between the buttons.
     


  4. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    I'm with the others here in thinking that you are better off with greater button distance and higher stance. I think it looks much better that way. It looks much more refined and balanced to my eye.
     


  5. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Senior Member

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    There's a rule in Italian tailoring: never less then 11cm
     


  6. johnw86

    johnw86 Senior Member

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    Just checked my jacket--12 cm. [​IMG]
     


  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    The old Savile Row default position is 4.5" between buttons, measured from the center of each button. 4.5" is about 11.5 cm. This can be increased or decreased depending on a person's height. Spacing also depends on the placement of the jacket's waist. On low-waisted jackets, the buttons should be slightly closer together. On American-style low waisted two-button suits, the buttons should be much closer together.

    9 cm (3.5") is quite a small distance. If the suit's waist is very low, it might be necessary, however. Personally, I prefer a higher waist and more widely spaced buttons.
     


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    One more thing: oddly enough, the people who benefit from more widely spaced buttons are the very tall, and the very short.  The tall benefit as a matter of proportion, obviously.  The short benefit because a wider gap between buttons helps to elongate the look of the coat, and give an impression of extra height.  Also, the opening of the coat's front pockets are supposed to line up with the bottom button.  When the pockets are low, there is a nice long distance between pocket and shoulder, and thus a nice long expanse of coat cloth, which also has an elongating effect.
     


  9. Horace

    Horace Distinguished Member

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    Sir, would you tell us the city or region where you had the suit made? H.
     


  10. Phildominator

    Phildominator Member

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    (Phildominator @ 22 Nov. 2004, 7:31) I got a custom made suit made in China - single breasted, 2 button. Â The tailor made the distance between the buttons 12 cm. Â It looks weird to me. Â I measured my other American-bought jackets and the button distance measures 9 cm. Is there a standard measurement for the distance between jacket buttons? Â If I were to get a 3 button suit made, would the distance be the same as the 2 button suit (9cm) or less (maybe 7.5 cm)? FYI, I'm a pretty standard fellow at 5'8" 160 lbs.
    Sir, would you tell us the city or region where you had the suit made? Â H.
    The city of Suzhou in the Zhejiang Province. It's about a 2 hour drive west of Shanghai.
     


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