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Bespoke Single Button Peak Lapel - Questions on Belly and Button point

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Longmorn, Feb 3, 2013.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Longmorn,

    Suggest trying jackets because getting ideas from pictures or seeing styles on others sometimes doesn't look the same in real life or look the same on you as you think they will.
     
  2. Longmorn

    Longmorn Senior member

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    Agree and I will try - other than RL Black Label (whose anemic peak lapel does not appeal to me) they can be hard to find OTR in my neck of the woods. I'll poke around and see what I can find. Once again, thanks!
     
  3. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    My input will probably disappoint you. While I like clothing I prefer to live in it rather than become obsessed with it as we so often tend to be here at Style Forum. I don't want my clothing to rule me ... I don't want to worry about it. I just can't afford the time and toll that takes. And ... I'm NEVER going to stand and pose in it. When I try on a suit -- any clothing -- I twist and turn, put my hands in pocket, slouch, walk about, etc. ... and try to get a general feel for it. I pay less attention to specific details. Ultimately it's not about the clothing, it's about how good I look in it. This is they way I've been doing it for more than 40 years ... long before there was an Internet.

    No, I'll never be a dandy ... I'll never write a book about men's clothing ... I'll never really know as much about clothing as some here do .... but that's not my objective.

    BTW, I do listen to my tailor when he expresses an opinion. I may or may not take his advice ... but probably do more often than not. I certainly have learned a lot from the various tailors who've clothed me over the years.

    • Ticket Pocket: If I can wear the coat with a pair of odd trousers, I usually opt for a ticket pocket. I just like them. If it's a more formal suit, I MIGHT not opt for it.
    • Button Point: I do tend to prefer a longer lapel.
    • Belly to Lapel: I like a bit of curve ... but other than that ... I leave it in the hands of the cutter/tailor.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I concurred with Mafoofan, but I will add that it is very important for your tailor to know about your style, the best is to let them know about your clothing personality. Focus on the tailor's suggestion, their words on fabric and shape are often much better than customers. To a certain extend, trust your tailor, if you don't feel comfortable to work with them, don't waste your time and money.

    Also have a look on other people's item in the shop, you can get a good image of what the tailor is good at, you don't want your tailor to do what he is not familiar with. And never try to push the tailor to do something he or she is not sure, rarely end up well.

    From my personal experience, I have a good amount of suits and blazers made with this one tailor, yet we are still progressing on the 'prefect' shoulder width and sleeve cleanness.

    It will be very lucky to get your prefect bespoke first time.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013
  5. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    What is perfect today is unlikely to be perfect tomorrow.
     
  6. Longmorn

    Longmorn Senior member

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    Why would you think any of this would disappoint me? I showed up here to learn, not to join in the sturm und drang.

    I am once again puzzled by how my post turned into a rorschach test, but I appreciate your useful responses to my questions.
     
  7. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    I didn't mean that as an insult. Please accept my apology if you took it that way.

    What I was trying to say is that I honestly don't feel that I have a great deal of sartorial wisdom to share. That said, I'm happy to pass on what I do have. But please know that I don't see the way I make decisions about my clothing to be the intellectual pursuit or as carefully considered as some here might have others believe it should be. My approach is more intuitative ... and that kind of approach is hard to impart in words. Moreover, it seems to be a bit at odds with the recent direction of the forum as I've known it. Granted I've not been here much of late ... in fact I returned after a month's absence primarly to attempt an answer to your question.

    Of course, when it comes to buildng a wardrobe each to his own. Those who enjoy a more thoughtful or studied approach should do it that way. I'm sure there are many ways to achieve this task successfully. I sincerely hope you find your way. I will add that I'm very happy with mine.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013
  8. Longmorn

    Longmorn Senior member

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    No - accept my apologies instead. I think I read your reply too much in line with some of what had come before and has been floating around the forum lately. I shouldn't have been tetchy with someone who took the time to reply.

    I actually strongly agree with your intuitive approach - while I respect the immense knowledge of some members, the degree to which 'the rules' are delineated and promulgated as the one and only path to developing one's own approach to classic style seems strange to me. Putting a bit of thought into dressing doesn't seem to require an elaborate philosophical argument.

    I was particularly interested in your perspective both because of your experience with this particular style of coat, and because your posts suggest you strike your own path. Bottom line - thanks for the reply, and if you have any other thoughts to share, I'm all ears.

    Cheers,
    LM
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    I'm not sure I understand why the width of the lapel would affect the button point. I would think it would be more about your top/bottom proportion. I have a single button Huntsman with notch lapels and the button point is on my navel. I also have a single button peak lapel (4 inch) by Despos and the button point is also on my navel.

    I think you are right though to make sure your button point isn't too high. Before Huntsman and Despos I did have a suit made by another tailor and he placed the button about 3 inches above my navel, which proved to be a mistake. The suit always bothered me and I wasn't sure why until Chris pointed out that It cut me in half too early.

    On the issue of pockets, I found the hacking pockets on the Huntsman to look sharp and add to a slimming and elongating look. Maybe because the angle draws the eye downward. I think you just don't want them too extreme. I considered getting a ticket pocket too, but the Huntsman tailor advised against it, and in retrospect I'm glad I didn't. It's a cleaner look without it.

    I like Chris's advice about collecting pictures and using those to illustrate what you like. It's a way of conveying what you want without mangling it in your own words and misunderstandings, and then getting out of the way to let the tailor do his thing.
     
  10. Longmorn

    Longmorn Senior member

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    1 person likes this.
  11. Jason Fournier

    Jason Fournier Member

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    I just joined this group and this discussion in particular brought me here. I have to say, Longmorn, the links you provided are by far the most knowledgeable, thoughtful and concise of any I have found related to the decision making process of a very important component of a jacket. The holistic explanation has given me a greater appreciation of the thinking that goes into the detail of a garment.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014

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