Bespoke shoes

[A Harris]

To answer the original question - it depends on the shape of your foot. If your foot is very "average", very close to a stock last shape, then a bespoke shoe is going to be of minimal benefit. The farther your foot is from "average," the more of an advantage you will enjoy when buying bespoke. There something it is important to remember though:  

Well, yes; but, as I understand it, the difference is that a more run-of-the-mill bespoke shoemaker (is there such a thing?) carves your foot out of a block of wood, while Vass carves your foot out of, say, a U-last.  As long as you like the look of one of the Vass lasts--and there is something for everybody--you'll get your perfect shoe.

What you mean is that most bespoke shoemakers carve a last from a blank (which are a general shoe-like shape, less specific than an existing last, but hardly a square block of wood either.) A last is much more than the shape of a foot. That is the genius of a lastmaker - they have to incorporate both the shape of your foot, AND the shape/style of the shoe into the last.

In reality, by modifying a stock last via the addition and subtraction methods, Vass covers a wider range of styles than usual, as there are seven or 8 lasts to choose from that are all very different in shape/style/fitting characteristics. The limitations come from the shape of your foot. If you are a EEE and want a U-last shoe (which is a C-D width,)  it's just not going to happen. Even if you convinced them to do it (not likely) the result would not look good.

There are a few artists out there who seem to be able to make a short wide foot look long, slim, and elegant, but they are rare and you are going to pay for it. A top firm like Lobb of London or Paris is no guarantee either - I've seen a whole lot of chunky, decidedly unelegant shoes from them, and from other top shoemakers...

So the moral of the story, as it applies here, is that you may have to accept that the shape of your foot is going to impact the shape of your shoes. You should find the Vass last that fits best stock, and have your custom shoes based on it for optimal results.

The custom shoes have gotten more expensive for sure, they start at around $650 now I believe, due to exchange rates, but that still represents an incredible deal. The last preparation is somewhat different, but the make is as good or better than any world-class bespoke firm. You are buying directly from the maker in  country where the Euro and dollar still enjoy a huge advantage - that's why they cost what they do. Just don't forget to factor in the price of a trip to Budapest. Not that it's not worth a visit, it's an incredible city... Definitely a must see..

 

[RIDER]

Nice post Andrew...

 

[Giona Granata]

A bespoke shoe is a completely different thing; I do not say it is better; it can be beatiful or horrible, and it depends a lot on the customer.

I have seen an artisan modifing a last, just by eye and hand, in front of me. You can ask everything, every change you want, small details or big; it is in your hand if the shoe will be beatiful or horrible, fitting well or not. Anyway it will be YOUR last.