Bespoke shoes

[alladin]

Hi,

I am considering getting bespoke shoes made as I cannot seem to find a decent pair of off the shelf dress shoes.

I am based in London and wanted to inquire if John Lobb St James is considered the best? I have also heard good things about cleverly and Foster and Son.

Having gone through the search function on this forum, another name has caught my eye Anthony Delos.

I'd appreciate your advice.

Thanks.

 

[BlackShoes]

All are good, I would go more on who's style most clearly mirrors your own. One day, one day . . .

 

[patrickBOOTH]

All of these makers have their distinct styles that is for sure. You might want to throw Gaziano & Girling into the mix as well. What is attracting you to bespoke in the first place? Are there any styles that you are particularly attracted to that one of these maker particularly excels at?

 

[alladin]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

All of these makers have their distinct styles that is for sure. You might want to throw Gaziano & Girling into the mix as well. What is attracting you to bespoke in the first place? Are there any styles that you are particularly attracted to that one of these maker particularly excels at?

I wear orthotics which means boots are fine as they accommodate the extra depth. With dress shoes, the heel slips out of the shoe due to the orthotic.

One option is to wear dress shoes without orhotics, however, the other problem is I have narrow feet and finding narrow width shoes is a nightmare. C&J only have 2 models as does Foster and Son.

In terms of particular styling, I quite like the Foster and Son designs. Never really looked into John Lobb or Cleverly.

 

[Cary Grant]

You're in London. Take your time and check out all of them. Go se Teemu and the gang at Cleverleys, talk to Tony & Dean at G&G, check out Lobb (who I imagine will still be the most expensive if nothing else), look into Fosters etc... they all be open to showing you around and exploring what you want; discuss your orthotic needs. Take your time and then settle on a good, basic first pair that you'll get the most use out of.

 

[NewYorkBuck]

I have one pair of bespoke shoes - E Vogel - have them on as I type. What I will say of the three major bespoke items of a mans wardrobe, IMO shoes represent the lowest added utility per dollar. My Vogels are nice, but really are not any more comfortable than most of my AEs, EGs, and CJs. If you are an extremely difficult fit, I guess one must do. Good luck!

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

You're in London. Take your time and check out all of them. Go se Teemu and the gang at Cleverleys, talk to Tony & Dean at G&G, check out Lobb (who I imagine will still be the most expensive if nothing else), look into Fosters etc... they all be open to showing you around and exploring what you want; discuss your orthotic needs. Take your time and then settle on a good, basic first pair that you'll get the most use out of.

on the bespoke route this chapter should be closed - orthotics gone for good.

 

[Cary Grant]

Originally Posted by fritzl

on the bespoke route this chapter should be closed - orthotics gone for good.

Not for arch supports (for example - at least I've not seen an example of building up an arch in the way some orthotics do) or issue with hammer toes where the shoe structure doesn't come into play but for more general issues, I agree.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

Not for arch supports (for example - at least I've not seen an example of building up an arch in the way some orthotics do)

no pun intended, you're kidding, right?

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

or issue with hammer toes where the shoe structure doesn't come into play but for more general issues, I agree.

furthermore at this point, it's not necessary to derail this thread.

we can agree that you have worked intensely with the cleverley gang, so did i with my gangs.

 

[imatlas]

Originally Posted by fritzl

on the bespoke route this chapter should be closed - orthotics gone for good.

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

Not for arch supports (for example - at least I've not seen an example of building up an arch in the way some orthotics do) or issue with hammer toes where the shoe structure doesn't come into play but for more general issues, I agree.

This is Central Europe vs Western Europe. From what I've learned here and elsewhere, the 'Germanic' school of shoemaking involves more of an "orthopedic" approach, including arch support, extended counter, asymmetric heels, etc. Makers in the UK, France and Italy take a different approach. Cleverly told me they would build in extra room to accommodate my orthotics, not that they would eliminate the need for them.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by imatlas

1. This is Central Europe vs Western Europe. From what I've learned here and elsewhere, the 'Germanic' school of shoemaking involves more of an "orthopedic" approach, including arch support, extended counter, asymmetric heels, etc. Makers in the UK, France and Italy take a different approach. 2. Cleverly told me they would build in extra room to accommodate my orthotics, not that they would eliminate the need for them.
1. this makes sense. it's not only the approach. from what i've heard. it's not included in their training programs. btw, from what I've learned here and elsewhere, there's no 'Germanic' school of shoemaking. 2. see above. probably bengal can shed some light on this.

 

[imatlas]

Originally Posted by fritzl

1. this makes sense. it's not only the approach. from what i've heard. it's not included in their training programs.

btw, from what I've learned here and elsewhere, there's no 'Germanic' school of shoemaking.

2. see above. probably bengal can shed some light on this.

That's why I put it in ''. Would "methods commonly found in Mitteleuropa" be better?

 

[Michael Ay329]

http://www.bownsbespoke.com/jamestaylorson.html

If you use orthotics...try James Taylor.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by imatlas

That's why I put it in ''. Would "methods commonly found in Mitteleuropa" be better?

imo, it depends what you're used to. e.g. when you take the step from rtw with a standard footbed to an orthopedic one. it feels like you have a stone, frog or golfball in your shoes.

when i was a kid, i had interchangeable orthotics for a while. growing up, i didn't care too much.

when i started with custom made shoes, i could feel the improvement they brought to my foot health. the development was linear to the development from on pair of shoes to another.

i dare to say, that this process is not applicable to everybody. imo, that's why you have to weigh in a lot of factors when starting the bespoke route.

i had nothing but good experiences and results, so i'm spoiled. it's a neverending process of learning and i enjoy the journey a lot.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

http://www.bownsbespoke.com/jamestaylorson.html

If you use orthotics...try James Taylor.

or rubbing the wonderlamp. kidding