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Bespoke shoes versus RTW – John Lobb Paris [JLP] versus Giorgio Armani [GA]

mmkn

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Some thoughts . . .

"¢ Fit
- JLP is closer fitting. The leather, when palpated, hugs my feet like a glove. There are compressible parts of the GA shoes, but overall the GA looks fine.
\t- Because of the above, the JLP shoes look better on me, to me. GA RTW was made to fit many people, and thus doesn't ever really fit one person - so naturally the GA has a more billowy feel, especially when worn next to the JLP.
\t- I used tutee's tome on shoes to assess fit, copied below. As the feet is just mostly bones and ligaments, passive fit can be assessed by light palpation of the uppers leather. Active fit is assessed by just wearing the shoes around for a while.
\t- Gait dynamics also require that there is a small amount of slippage at the heel and some longest toe room.
\t- Leather also break-in slightly, and so first wear is not an accurate assessment.
\t- That said, it feels better slipping out of the GA shoes into JLP. But, if I had not done that, my feet would not have known "better," and would have felt the GA OK.

"¢ Comfort
- I can walk all day with comfort in both after they have broken in, as long as there is no persistent leather impinging on bone area.
- Having reviewed the science and medicine behind shoes as "shock absorbers," I have concluded that shoes best cover the feet, while the healthiest shock absorbing of the body starts with proper support of the cervical, thoracic, and lumbar spine (i.e., good posture). The hips, knees, ankles and feet should be more of bending joints and less of shock absorbers. Thus, I can really walk in any shoes just fine, even bare feet, as I don't count on them as major shock absorbers.

"¢ Quality
- Can't see the inside or know the components. JLP is obviously uncompromising leather and innards. Construction is top notch, and is also fixable and refurbishable - a lifetime ownership. Not sure about GA - for the price, I'd probably replace it.

"¢ Styling
- JLP - timeless. GA - although they look great, but there is still a fashiony edge to me.

"¢ Specificity
- of course, JLP. They also came with bespoke shoe trees.


In the end, each pair of shoes lived up to their essence . . . JLP will last a lifetime, both in style and refurbishable life. Mr. Armani would have wanted me to buy new shoes each season, if not every other.

Some pictures . . .

Giorgio Armani RTW











John Lobb Paris Bespoke











The foot - mostly bones



Fitting



- a few of the many measurements taken for JLP



Fit















- M
 

Eustace Tilley

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Love the JLPs. Can you speak a bit about the process with JLP?
 

artoftime

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You are comparing 2 ends of an elevated spectrum... those poor GA's don't stand a chance.
Would be more interesting to see a RTW/ bespoke JL comparison.
Gorgeous JLP's by the way
 

musicguy

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What an odd comparison! Aren't JLP Bespoke like 10 times the price of the GA? For a sec I thought you did bespoke GA.
 

mmkn

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Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley
Love the JLPs. Can you speak a bit about the process with JLP?

When I inquired in 2008 [I'm just glad I do not need to fly to Paris] . . .

Dear . . . ,

Thank you for your interest in John Lobb.

We offer Made to Measure shoes in our New York boutique through the John Lobb Paris workshop. We have someone available in the shop during the week to take your measurements. For the first pair, the process involves about 3-4 fittings over an 8-10 month period. You will have the initial measurements taken and decide on a model. A wooden last is made and a plastic try-on shoe is sent to New York approximately 3 months later. Based on this fitting, you will either have a second try on about 2 months later or the completed shoe about 4 months later. When the shoes are complete, you will have the final fitting to determine if modifications will need to be made. Once you are satisfied with the shoes, additional pairs are usually completed in 4 months. The starting price is $ . . . .

Please contact us if you would like to schedule an appointment. We remain at your disposal should you have additional questions.

Kindest regards,

Boutique Manager John Lobb


The leather [instead of plastic see through] trial shoes. Note: the leather was buttery soft, so you really have to know where the abnormal bumps in your feet are!


Originally Posted by artoftime
Would be more interesting to see a RTW/ bespoke JL comparison.

Gorgeous JLP's by the way


^ Thanks.

JL RTW is made by a different set of artisans and materials than their bespoke operation.

It is just that I grew up admiring Mitsuhiro Matsuda and Giorgio Armani, now I am exploring bespoke.

You can substitute essentially Cleverly, G&G, and others for the bespoke side - and Prada, Dior, Ballly or others for the RTW side . . . GA is just what I have worn.

- M
 

Eustace Tilley

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Thanks. Their shoes are stunning, but the NY starting price has creeped upward pretty consistently (2.5x Cleverley bespoke, which is somewhat ridiculous).

But I love the Remy model and must have it. And I shall.
 

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