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Bespoke shoes and riding boots

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ValeriyMahmutov, Jan 14, 2014.

  1. ValeriyMahmutov

    ValeriyMahmutov Active Member

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    All hello! One of man's shoes obligatory by attribute to order is the leather type-setting heel, which at all the beauty heavy and rigid. The discomfort from rigidity of such heel almost has an effect at once, if on you for 40. During long-term work and personal experience, I came to a conclusion that at production of a type-setting heel its internal part can be cut out and will be filled with a detail from a pith tree. The footwear in this case is considerably facilitated. But the most important, is reached the highest comfort when using a type-setting heel.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2014


  2. ValeriyMahmutov

    ValeriyMahmutov Active Member

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    The handbag is made of a genuine leather. All the seams are made by hand without using a sewing-machine. The handles are sewn like it was on the famouse handbag Birkin by Hermes, besides they looks like a leather steering wheel which is used to be in the expensive cars. And the most difficult items are formed molded corners.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     


  3. ValeriyMahmutov

    ValeriyMahmutov Active Member

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    If on the previous photos of red low shoes the heel was made of a pith tree and will fit skin, on these photos I applied a hollow type-setting heel with an insert from a pith tree.
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    Last edited: Jun 2, 2014


  4. ValeriyMahmutov

    ValeriyMahmutov Active Member

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  5. ValeriyMahmutov

    ValeriyMahmutov Active Member

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  6. ValeriyMahmutov

    ValeriyMahmutov Active Member

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  7. ValeriyMahmutov

    ValeriyMahmutov Active Member

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    [​IMG][​IMG]



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    All, Hello.My son and I sewed three pairs of identical workpieces uppers, photos of the two finished pairs I posted above.In both cases, the workpiece is sewn round by a double seam, where the heels from a pair of balsa wood and covered with brown leather, and the other pair of stacked heel with an insert made of balsa wood.With its lightness the rear of the two pairs looks a bit cumbersome .So this pair I double stitched seam only a little further beams, and the rear (gelenochnoy and heel) to the insole stitch counter stitch, I had to remove your shoes with pads.The heel of balsa wood and covered with leather.I think we found a good option of tailoring the model.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2015


  8. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    Those riding boots are incredible.

    What kind of shank do you use?. Do you use cork filler?. Any pic of your insole finished?.

    Congrats, It is really impressive your work!![​IMG]
     


  9. ValeriyMahmutov

    ValeriyMahmutov Active Member

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  10. ValeriyMahmutov

    ValeriyMahmutov Active Member

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    [​IMG]All hello. Much for certain will interestingly know that the bearing welt is cut out from the best sites of skin. And it is cut out in the form of a circle or an ellipse, is so written in textbooks on shoemaking of the second half of the last century. The western masters cut out a welt in the form of straight lines, of course it is so convenient and favorable in respect of economy, but quality as the direct welt is exposed to strong deformation at a vshivaniye in nosochny part suffers from it. I didn't accept even the welt which is cut out in the form of an ellipse or a circle. I wanted that the welt ideally was sewn and kept within without deformations and I began to cut out a welt in an insole form to which it has to be sewn. Thus workmanship naturally increased. So I sew a welt many years and now decided to publish this technology. I consider. that for custom-made (bespoke) footwear the bearing welt has to be cut out quite so.
     


  11. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    That's an very interesting approach. Makes a lot of sense for less deformity.
     


  12. ValeriyMahmutov

    ValeriyMahmutov Active Member

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    After cutting the Welt the rest (inner part) I use as postilki (instead of cork and cork pulp, which quickly turns into dust due to friction). It fits perfectly in shape and in height.But the shoes do not squeak when you walk, I liberally smeared hard wax (Carnauba) from both sides and from the yard too.This prevents the friction between sole and insole, the Shoe becomes much more flexible and durable.
     


  13. ValeriyMahmutov

    ValeriyMahmutov Active Member

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    Go on a photo of the last work of my son , Dmitry , he sewed on zakaz.Slozhnost was that the customer is very narrow heel, but broad in the beam and a fairly large high palets.Zakazchik said that the purchase shoes always squeezes in bunches due large thumb and at the same heel shoes boltaetsya.Voobschem the customer happy ! Photos shoe lay on it later.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2016


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