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Bespoke Shirts...what are my options?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by The_Foxx, Jan 23, 2005.

  1. MPS

    MPS Senior member

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    There is a difference between being a well made and fitting properly. In fact, I despair of anyone who fails to be impressed by them.
     
  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Well, Tom (our resident chiropracter) isn't impressed by the construction, and by his stories he has good cause. But, yes, the construction has been first rate IMO. Still, construction arguably encompasses fit as well, since going by AK's old posts, creating a shirt with the proper taper, etc. necessitates good thread tension, etc.
     
  3. iwantstyle

    iwantstyle Member

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    Son of Brummel or others....how do you go about getting Turnbull fabric for another shirt maker (as indicated in bullet point 1 in your previous response)? Walk into the store and ask to purchase it? Get it online somewhere? Thanks a bunch.
     
  4. gorgekko

    gorgekko Senior member

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    That would have been my point...to me good construction also includes good fit.

    I'm not blasting Jantzen as I have no experience with them -- I am planning on placing an order sometime this year as an experiment.
     
  5. MPS

    MPS Senior member

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    (johnnynorman3 @ Jan. 24 2005,16:05) Still, construction arguably encompasses fit as well, since going by AK's old posts, creating a shirt with the proper taper, etc. necessitates good thread tension, etc.
    That would have been my point...to me good construction also includes good fit.
    Poor fitting at a distance is most likely down to the measurements they've been given to work with. As for poor construction resulting in a shirt that's too short: surely you're joking.
     
  6. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    gorgekko,
    jantzen shirts are well constructed. if you already have shirts that fit you perfectly, i strongly suggest you simply mail one to jantzen and have them copy it.
     
  7. jekv12

    jekv12 Senior member

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    Did you get solids or patterns? My experience with IS has been spotty. When the IS rep was in the store (a couple times a year) I found I could tweak a number of things, but - and this is one reason I likely won't be buying any more - the pattern matching has been atrocious. I've sent a few shirts back because it was so bad and so noticeable. And by this I mean on checked shirts across the front button placket (casual shirts), stripes on the collars and cuff ends on the dress shirts. Don't even think about the sleeve plackets.
     
  8. gorgekko

    gorgekko Senior member

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    I'm not joking and don't call me Shirley.
     
  9. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I can't speak to Vacca, Lorenzini, or Battisoni, but with Borrelli, it really depends on where you buy them. At my friendly neighborhood men's store, the minimum order is 2 and they start at around $295.
     
  10. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've had some problems, as well. The story that the Borrelli people were telling earlier this year was that the problem was with their US agent, not with the factory. They apparently fired him and claim that service will improve. We'll see.
     
  11. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

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    If you're not completely happy with Borrelli MTM, don't buy MTM from Battistoni, Finamore, Lorenzini et al if there's a hefty minimum involved. You ought to get true custom for the amount you would spend buying MTM shirts from these makers.
    Go to Italy or France for custom shirts.
     
  12. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    To Iwantstyle: Turnbull sells cloth in pre-made packages in the store. They have a broad variety of exclusives, superfine cottons, and Sea Island quality poplins. The starting price is $75 a package. It's in the bespoke shirt department. I do not know if they will sell cloth "out of the book" since they are shirtmakers and are in the business of making shirts. (It could be similar to someone going to a restaurant and asking for a raw piece of meat to go.) I would call and ask for either Simon Hobbs or Michael Marshall in the NYC shop.

    To Jekv12: I have found Individualized Shirts to match the stripes at the shoulder. I do not know if they do so at the sleeve gauntlet. I am wearing a Bruce Cameron Clark shirt now, and it matches at the gauntlet.
     
  13. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    Further note to Jekv12 on Individualized Shirts:

    I have found them to be very good shirts for the money (less than 1/2 of Turnbull.) They aren't on the level of Turnbull or Borrelli. I would say that IS is one step below them, and that it is the best of the American, widely available MTM class. (Better than Brooks Bros. present MTM; IS used to make Brooks's MTM.)

    I also buy them once in a while at a discounter in NYC, LS Clothing, which sells them at an average price of $125.

    IS has a "bespoke" line sold under Oxxford Bespoke and Y'Pres. (This is made by a small, dedicatated team of the best craftsmen at IS.) The level of manufacture appears to equal or exceed Turnbull. I'm trying one of its shirts which should be delivered soon. I'll see if all of the patterns match, and I'll post my opinion in about 1 month.

    I'll say this for Turnbull: It has an excellent, edited selection of shirt cloths including its exclusive stripes and plaids, classics, and higher end selections. Turnbull's selection is superior to Borrelli and other makers. IS's selection is a little dull by comparison, but the price is right.

    Cheers.
     
  14. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What does Oxxford bespoke charge? Or is this the same price as the regular IS product?
     
  15. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

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    yApre' shirts can approach $500.
     
  16. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    Oxxford bespoke starts at about $200 and goes up to $400.

    It seems that the bespoke is approx. $75-100 greater in price than the regular IS shirts.
     
  17. Smooth Jazz

    Smooth Jazz Well-Known Member

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    Since it has not already been mentioned - Mike at Geneva makes a good shirt in your price range. Quality is quite good and customer service is excellent. Highly recommended.

    The place I have had the least success with is Ascot Chang - but given some satisfied customers in these forums, you may have a better experience. Prices range from approx. $125 to 500.

    A decent shirtmaker with great fabric selection is Riddle McIntyre in Chicago - no need to go there if you are in the NY area though.
     
  18. jekv12

    jekv12 Senior member

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    RE: Individualized - I've been getting them for about 6 years now, though I didn't get any this past year. I agree - it's a decent shirt for the money, and I don't care (much) about the sleeve placket not lininig up. But for the areas that are visible - stripes on the collar tip, stripes/patterns on the cuff ends and anything going across the front of a casual shirt (ie you can't hide a mismatch with a tie) they should do a better job, IMHO.
     
  19. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    For what's it's worth, I have heard that Geneva used to make Sulka's shirts. I also have a recommendation from the former bespoke manager at Turnbull who used to be a Geneva customer.

    You can get it cheaper and without "losses in translation" if you go direct to Geneva rather than through Saks.
     
  20. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    Just checked an Individualized Shirt from Saks that I'm wearing today. Yes, the stripes aren't matched at the shoulder and at the gauntlet at the forearm. However, I have some IS striped shirts with matching elements. As I indicated in early posts, the IS is on the B level of quality overall as compared to Turnbull which is on the A level. However, IS is half the price. I have also found the IS to wear longer than Turnbull. I have had some Turnbulls start to fray after a few wearings. I have had bespoke shirts from the almighty Turnbull with non-matching elements. If Turnbull delivered such shirts to me today I would demand matching elements in view of the hefty price. I'll let you know how the "bespoke" model from IS turns out. [​IMG]
     

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