Bespoke Shirts in Manhattan (NYC) area

[Matt]

there is this guy on the internet called Alexander S. Something.

 

[A Y]

Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke

So your saying he doesn't use handsewn seams?

That's right, and neither do almost every other custom shirtmaker.

--Andre

 

[montmorency]

Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke

I actually live in NJ and this would be a shorter trip for me. However, I have to say I am bias towards a shirtmaker in Manhattan as I would imagine they would have a better selection of fabrics.

How is your experience with Gambert?

You are looking for a shirtmaker that can give you a spread collar, high armholes and a modern, slimmer fit. Gambert does all of that. The armholes on my Gambert shirt are the highest of all my custom shirts (from four different makers) and the fit is definitely slim. They do an intermediate fitting, which not all shirtmakers do. If you are in NJ already, it is worth the trip to go and see the fabrics and talk to Paul.

ms244, 120 or so is the entry price. Most fabrics cost more and are nicer fabrics.

 

[ms244]

montmorency, what should I expect to spend on a nice shirt and what would be a good first shirt/fabric to get.

 

[AvariceBespoke]

Originally Posted by Andre Yew

That's right, and neither do almost every other custom shirtmaker.

--Andre

do you know any bespoke shirt maker that does use hand?

 

[AvariceBespoke]

Originally Posted by montmorency

You are looking for a shirtmaker that can give you a spread collar, high armholes and a modern, slimmer fit. Gambert does all of that. The armholes on my Gambert shirt are the highest of all my custom shirts (from four different makers) and the fit is definitely slim. They do an intermediate fitting, which not all shirtmakers do. If you are in NJ already, it is worth the trip to go and see the fabrics and talk to Paul.

ms244, 120 or so is the entry price. Most fabrics cost more and are nicer fabrics.

completely bespoke right? not MTM..

i think im going to check it out

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke

do you know any bespoke shirt maker that does use hand?
Several Italians do (not Sviglia, BTW). But very few of them travel. Not so long ago it was possible to get a partially hand-sewn shirt in Paris, but with the closing of the White Shirt Bar at Dunhill, it no longer is.

The only handsewn American shirt I have ever seen was from Oxxford. I don't really know much about it, but the samples were beautifully made.

 

[minimal]

Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke

I've heard good things about seize sur vingt... are the shirts bespoke or Made to measure? i would imagine MTM but I could be wrong.. how much per shirt?
+1 on the good experience at SSV, but let me qualify. First off, they are MTM, not bespoke, see my definition below as there is some controversy on this matter. If you fit very well off-the-rack, they may not be much improvement there. I'm tall and skinny, so my SSV fits me a *lot* better than off-the-rack, but it doesn't fit perfectly: I'd say it's in the 97th percentile of "perfection" for fit, and I'd have to go someplace else to get a better MTM fit. This is because the people working there are knowledgeable about patterns and "look", but they are not tailors. That's in some sense the "-", the "+" is that they have great fabrics that you wont see elsewhere. Most of these are subtle twists on traditional patterns so that they look both modern and traditional at the same time. Case in point: blue/white check with the spacing varying over the shirt. Under a suit no one North of Houston would think it's anything but a beautiful shirt; worn with jeans people will stop you and ask where you got it. Price: they always end up being around $250 for me. Minimum is 4 shirts to start, but they will waive that if you say you want a test shirt to start. My definition of MTM vs. bespoke: in MTM a few of your measurements are taken and your shirts are then made using a set of rules to figure out the dimensions of the pieces of fabric to be cut. This differs from a truly bespoke shirt where a pattern is made *just for you* taking into account every fault and asymmetry in your body, from which fabric is then cut for a shirt. Most places offering custom shirts are MTM; if you are working with the actual person who will sew your shirt, or with a person who *knows* that person, it's probably bespoke.

 

[AvariceBespoke]

Originally Posted by Manton

Several Italians do (not Sviglia, BTW). But very few of them travel. Not so long ago it was possible to get a partially hand-sewn shirt in Paris, but with the closing of the White Shirt Bar at Dunhill, it no longer is.

The only handsewn American shirt I have ever seen was from Oxxford. I don't really know much about it, but the samples were beautifully made.

thanks

 

[DrGiggles]

Originally Posted by minimal

+1 on the good experience at SSV, but let me qualify. First off, they are MTM, not bespoke, see my definition below as there is some controversy on this matter.

If you fit very well off-the-rack, they may not be much improvement there. I'm tall and skinny, so my SSV fits me a *lot* better than off-the-rack, but it doesn't fit perfectly: I'd say it's in the 97th percentile of "perfection" for fit, and I'd have to go someplace else to get a better MTM fit. This is because the people working there are knowledgeable about patterns and "look", but they are not tailors.

That's in some sense the "-", the "+" is that they have great fabrics that you wont see elsewhere. Most of these are subtle twists on traditional patterns so that they look both modern and traditional at the same time. Case in point: blue/white check with the spacing varying over the shirt. Under a suit no one North of Houston would think it's anything but a beautiful shirt; worn with jeans people will stop you and ask where you got it.

Price: they always end up being around $250 for me. Minimum is 4 shirts to start, but they will waive that if you say you want a test shirt to start.

My definition of MTM vs. bespoke: in MTM a few of your measurements are taken and your shirts are then made using a set of rules to figure out the dimensions of the pieces of fabric to be cut. This differs from a truly bespoke shirt where a pattern is made *just for you* taking into account every fault and asymmetry in your body, from which fabric is then cut for a shirt.

Most places offering custom shirts are MTM; if you are working with the actual person who will sew your shirt, or with a person who *knows* that person, it's probably bespoke.

great explanation. to add my 2c, i found myself having to go custom b/c my neck width is out of proportion with my waist width (16.5 vs 32) w/ a decent size drop (10in). all that being said, ssv MTM seems to work well for me.