Bespoke shirts in London - Fabric Selection question

[R.O. Thornhill]

I am looking for your advice on bespoke shirtmakers in London

For some years now I have been a bespoke customer of Turnbull & Asser in London. Having become increasingly frustrated with them (long lead-times, dubious customer service, some shoddy work on my most recent orders), I am thinking about taking my custom elsewhere.

Sean O'Flynn seems to be getting a lot of good press on this forum, and elsewhere, but are there other makers I should consider? I like quite a trim, well-fitting shirt, preferably with stitching and finishing of a higher quality than some of the stuff I have recently got from Turnbull & Asser.

Also, one final point of importance - I am not a huge fan of the Acorn fabrics - and would like a maker with access to some finer, less common fabrics (something like the ones Charvet use, or something like Riva fabrics). I am not after flamboyance - T&A's wilder stuff never grabbed me, and most of my shirts are predominantly blue (with some whites and pinks), just higher quality.

 

[fox81]

I'd be curious to know where you end up.
Riva and Alumo are very nice shirt fabrics

 

[Golf_Nerd]

Originally Posted by R.O. Thornhill

I am looking for your advice on bespoke shirtmakers in London

For some years now I have been a bespoke customer of Turnbull & Asser in London. Having become increasingly frustrated with them (long lead-times, dubious customer service, some shoddy work on my most recent orders), I am thinking about taking my custom elsewhere.


If you were content for along time hold a conversation first. Perhaps they will make you happy, again?!

 

[ccffm1]

I´m not a Turnbull & Asser customer, so take my comment for what it´s worth, but after all I´ve heard about them in the last two or three years I have come to believe that the problems there are too fundamental to sort out by way of a conversation. Still, I´d love to be proved wrong, because T&A is an institution. I just don´t appreciate their resting on their oars.

 

[Manton]

Another maker to check out is David Gale. He is more expensive than Flynn, but also supposed to be very good (I don't have shirts from him). He used to operate out of Dunhill, and may still.

I think that most London shirtmakers are going to have the same "usual suspects" cloth: Thomas Mason, Acorn, and the like. Riva seems not to be used by anyone outside of Italy. Still, you can always ask whatever maker you end up with to open an account with other fabric sellers.

 

[Umer]

Try Alexander Boyd for Riva fabrics. Also David Gale no longer works for Dunhill.

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

Thank you to everyone for their helpful replies

With regards to Turnbull & Asser, I'm afraid that we are beyond the 'let's have a chat' stage. I have found their customer service poor, their lead-times inexplicably long, and the quality and reliability has really gone downhill recently, in my experience.

As for alternative makers:
- Never heard of Alexander Boyd before, anyone else with experience or comments?
- What is the latest on David Gale and Dunhill? Have heard very good things about him, but also read elsewhere that he was leaving Dunhill as he wan't happy with production being outsourced
- Will probably still see what Sean O'Flynn can do

Finally, and as a bit of a joker in the pack, I may try Leonardo Bugelli in Florence. I will be spending quite a lot of time in Florence over the next year, and from what I've heard he makes a very fine shirt. Any Bugelli customers who would be willing to share their experiences?

 

[Patrician]

Flynn's website says that "shirts start at £160", isnt that very cheap? Or maybe there's like a fee for the fitting and then a minimum of 10 shirts? I'm not familiar with bespoke at all.

 

[sartorialexecutive]

Originally Posted by R.O. Thornhill

Thank you to everyone for their helpful replies

As for alternative makers:
- Never heard of Alexander Boyd before, anyone else with experience or comments?

Alexander Boyd are run by the owners of Rayner & Sturges. Alexander Boyd have a website at http://www.alexanderboyd.co.uk and Rayner and Sturges are at www.raynersturges.com

Dunhill have (or will) outsourced production BECAUSE of David Gale retiring.

 

[Mildly Consumptive]

Sean O'Flynn's website has a link to Alumo, implying that he uses their fabrics.

Originally Posted by R.O. Thornhill

Also, one final point of importance - I am not a huge fan of the Acorn fabrics - and would like a maker with access to some finer, less common fabrics (something like the ones Charvet use, or something like Riva fabrics)