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Bespoke shirts in London - Fabric Selection question

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by R.O. Thornhill, Dec 4, 2008.

  1. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

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    I am looking for your advice on bespoke shirtmakers in London

    For some years now I have been a bespoke customer of Turnbull & Asser in London. Having become increasingly frustrated with them (long lead-times, dubious customer service, some shoddy work on my most recent orders), I am thinking about taking my custom elsewhere.

    Sean O'Flynn seems to be getting a lot of good press on this forum, and elsewhere, but are there other makers I should consider? I like quite a trim, well-fitting shirt, preferably with stitching and finishing of a higher quality than some of the stuff I have recently got from Turnbull & Asser.

    Also, one final point of importance - I am not a huge fan of the Acorn fabrics - and would like a maker with access to some finer, less common fabrics (something like the ones Charvet use, or something like Riva fabrics). I am not after flamboyance - T&A's wilder stuff never grabbed me, and most of my shirts are predominantly blue (with some whites and pinks), just higher quality.
     
  2. fox81

    fox81 Senior member

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    I'd be curious to know where you end up.
    Riva and Alumo are very nice shirt fabrics
     
  3. Golf_Nerd

    Golf_Nerd Senior member

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    I am looking for your advice on bespoke shirtmakers in London

    For some years now I have been a bespoke customer of Turnbull & Asser in London. Having become increasingly frustrated with them (long lead-times, dubious customer service, some shoddy work on my most recent orders), I am thinking about taking my custom elsewhere.


    If you were content for along time hold a conversation first. Perhaps they will make you happy, again?!
     
  4. ccffm1

    ccffm1 Senior member

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    I´m not a Turnbull & Asser customer, so take my comment for what it´s worth, but after all I´ve heard about them in the last two or three years I have come to believe that the problems there are too fundamental to sort out by way of a conversation. Still, I´d love to be proved wrong, because T&A is an institution. I just don´t appreciate their resting on their oars.
     
  5. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Another maker to check out is David Gale. He is more expensive than Flynn, but also supposed to be very good (I don't have shirts from him). He used to operate out of Dunhill, and may still.

    I think that most London shirtmakers are going to have the same "usual suspects" cloth: Thomas Mason, Acorn, and the like. Riva seems not to be used by anyone outside of Italy. Still, you can always ask whatever maker you end up with to open an account with other fabric sellers.
     
  6. Umer

    Umer New Member

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    Try Alexander Boyd for Riva fabrics. Also David Gale no longer works for Dunhill.
     
  7. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

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    Thank you to everyone for their helpful replies

    With regards to Turnbull & Asser, I'm afraid that we are beyond the 'let's have a chat' stage. I have found their customer service poor, their lead-times inexplicably long, and the quality and reliability has really gone downhill recently, in my experience.

    As for alternative makers:
    - Never heard of Alexander Boyd before, anyone else with experience or comments?
    - What is the latest on David Gale and Dunhill? Have heard very good things about him, but also read elsewhere that he was leaving Dunhill as he wan't happy with production being outsourced
    - Will probably still see what Sean O'Flynn can do

    Finally, and as a bit of a joker in the pack, I may try Leonardo Bugelli in Florence. I will be spending quite a lot of time in Florence over the next year, and from what I've heard he makes a very fine shirt. Any Bugelli customers who would be willing to share their experiences?
     
  8. Patrician

    Patrician Senior member

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    Flynn's website says that "shirts start at £160", isnt that very cheap? Or maybe there's like a fee for the fitting and then a minimum of 10 shirts? I'm not familiar with bespoke at all.
     
  9. sartorialexecutive

    sartorialexecutive Well-Known Member

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    Thank you to everyone for their helpful replies

    As for alternative makers:
    - Never heard of Alexander Boyd before, anyone else with experience or comments?


    Alexander Boyd are run by the owners of Rayner & Sturges. Alexander Boyd have a website at http://www.alexanderboyd.co.uk and Rayner and Sturges are at www.raynersturges.com

    Dunhill have (or will) outsourced production BECAUSE of David Gale retiring.
     
  10. Mildly Consumptive

    Mildly Consumptive Senior member

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    Sean O'Flynn's website has a link to Alumo, implying that he uses their fabrics.



    Also, one final point of importance - I am not a huge fan of the Acorn fabrics - and would like a maker with access to some finer, less common fabrics (something like the ones Charvet use, or something like Riva fabrics)
     

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