bespoke shirts in Italy

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by intfxdx, Jan 6, 2012.

  1. intfxdx

    intfxdx Senior member

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    Today i made the first try of my first bespoke shirt (actually it's a mix of made to measure and bespoke) While the guy told me that the shirt is hand made (hand finished, the correct term) it's hard to believe as button holes were cheaply made and i clearly see the machine stitches on the shoulders. The guy even told that the kiton shirt that i was wearing is not hand made ! he said button holes are too perfect , it must be machine made. And the collar was really hard (like a hardcover) and all my kiton, borrelli, charvet, RLBL shirts has very nice soft collars that stay perfectly over a tie (charvet having the hardest collar, RLBL shirts are almost not canvassed but they still stay without any problem )

    Anyway, i would like to pass bespoke shirts but this experience discouraged me, finally i said to myself that a kiton on ebay with $200 is a better value with a great collar and details. One major problem is i have short arms so i have to shorten the sleeves almost 3" so i also have to taper the sleeves a little bit.

    I am living in Geneva, so going to Italy for a bespoke shirt is not a problem ( i recently ordered my first bespoke shoes from VASS), where could i get a good bespoke shirt ? Milano (3h by train) or Naples (easyjet flight) ? Any suggestion for a good tailor ?
     


  2. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Depends on how much you want/can spend, I would go to naples, I've heard good things about anna matuozzo, but she is pricey, maybe others can comment on her shirts firsthand
     


  3. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Sorry to hear your first try at bespoke shirt hasn't been more successful. Did you have the shirt made in Geneva? I don't believe there are any decent shirtmaker in Geneva when I was living there. Not all bespoke shirts are hand made, in fact there are only a handful of shirtmaker who would totally make there shirts by hand. Imo the fit of the shirts are important to me than hand made button holes, hand stitch collars and shoulders.However you should be able choose the softness of the collar and cuffs.

    Don't be discourage by your first attempt, when you get it right you won't be looking back. I would suggest that you take a trip to Naples. There are many great shirt-makers there. A few members here have used Anna Matuozzo who delivers a fully handmade shirt.

    I love to hear the details about your bespoke Vass, I didn't know Vass still offer a bespoke service.
     


  4. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    I have just returned to Naples where I have ordered 6 new bespoke shirts from 3 different makers ( 4 from the same one, Vincenzo Prisco- and one each from two others I wanted to try).

    It is definitely worth a trip there. Once you have nailed your pattern with a shirtmaker, you will not need subsenquental fittings and could order of swatches...

    Handmade constructions is actually often offered as optional by most Neapolitan shirtmakers and avoiding it would save you €30 circa per shirt ( the cost they pay a woman to do the 7/8 handmade finishes at home).

    Collars and collars construction preferences should be at client preference. Prisco did a beautiful unfused collar for me, another refused. Take one o more example with you to help explain what you after.
     


  5. hip_priest

    hip_priest Active Member

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    I have had shirts made by Anna Matuozzo in Naples in the past, and was very pleased with the experience and the shirts that she made for me. I would highly recommend her.
     


  6. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Indeed for what I have seen and heard she does a beautiful job, but I for one cannot justify €400 for her shirt. Most shirtmakers in Naples charge 70-80 euro CMT + 25-30 euro for the hand finishes, called 105 on average plus fabric. You can often buy Riva on offer in one of the many merchant in the city, like a did for €90 per 3m required, and you get a beautiful 195 euro, Riva fabric shirt, instead of the 250 most charge or 400 plus I have heard of AM....
     


  7. intfxdx

    intfxdx Senior member

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    Thanks to all, i noted all these names... It seems that Naples would be my next destination... and answer to tchoy, indeed the guy is coming from Italy, he is not a geneva based tailor. There is no tailor in Geneva who can make a shirt..
     


  8. intfxdx

    intfxdx Senior member

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    marcodalondra, you tried your shirts when you were there ? or you will return to there to try your shirts ?
     


  9. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    If you search for my first post on Prisco (edit : here is the link http://www.styleforum.net/t/247055/prisco-napoli-camiceria) you will see that after pre-arranging the visit, having specifically asked for a first fitting while there within 24 hours, Enzo Prisco actually cutted the shirt in front of me, sent it to the workroom and minutes later my trial shirt was basted and ready for the fitting. Further adjustment were made with pins here and there and then the pattern was agreed and the shirt sent to the workroom. Normally it will take 15-30 days for the shirt to be ready.

    As they have created a carton pattern, this time I have only asked to slightly narrow the upper arm, and then ordered different cuffs (two mitred barrell and two French cuffs), no need for fitting.

    Feel free to PM me for further info on the proces...
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2012


  10. Hirsh

    Hirsh Senior member

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    Anna Matuozzo makes the most gorgeous shirts in the world.

    I've tried Jermyn Street and Savile Row bespoke makers.....nothing can compare with Anna.

    She is currently making me a pink and white shirt, and a blue and white stripe and I spend more of my life in her shirts than any others.

    I'm distraught when I finally wear them out, as I pics a favourite one and wear it to pieces.(I've only worn out 2, and that was because I loved them so much that I slept in them!

    I think the next one I wear every day will be the blue and white striped twill

    Next year I hope to order at least 5 more from her.

    She's sending more swatches with the next 2 shirts, due imminently.

    I wait for the post every day.....

    Worth every penny!:)
     


  11. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Are you aware that SF member Mafoofan commissioned shirts from her several years ago and documented the
    process with photos at the time? Much sooner than they should have, the shirts began falling apart. I just spent
    the last 15 minutes looking for the specific posts about the AM shirts quality problems and could only find references
    to them in Mafoofan posts earlier this year. Quality issues as well as AM's business practices made him a former customer.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2013


  12. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Hirsh is comparing AM to English shirts so he finds AM wonderful and value for money, however as explained many times before, within Naples you can find equal if not better quality (IMHO certainly fit) for a much better price.

    With regards to Mafoofan, I think he had avoided commented too negatively in the first place, as for Ambrosi, he was hoping for AM to come good on the complaints. Also to be fair, it was not AM manufacturing that came apart but rather the shirting material, thought to be Carlo Riva (twill worst then also poplin an voille I guess) that disintegrated.
     


  13. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    I have several T & A RTW shirts that are over 15 years old and are still very wearable Admittedly, I have not worn dress shirts regularly in recent years.
    And ,T & A RTW does not pretend to be hand made. Nevertheless, I have never had any such problems with materials or construction.
    I recently got some Finamore shirts, which I love. These are also RTW. However, they seem to be hand stiched which looks quite delicate.
    My guess is that I have to take them to my tailor within a few years.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2013


  14. Hirsh

    Hirsh Senior member

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    My shirts wore out because I lived in them, I have better experiences than with my English bespoke shirts, and I changed my twill order to 2 more Popeline shirts, as well as the one I'm expecting any day.

    I've got no complaints!:)
     


  15. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    As marcodalondra pointed out the main problem with those shirts appeared to be the use of very fine shirtings. I don't think any shirt will stand up to 40 washes without looking tatty or sprezzy.
     


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