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Bespoke shirtmakers in London?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by The Silverfox, Dec 10, 2012.

  1. The Silverfox

    The Silverfox Senior member

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    Good evening,

    As the title indicates I'm looking for a bespoke (or MTM might also do) shirtmaker in London, and preferably one that's not horribly expensive, as my reason for going bespoke is more of a necessity than a luxury. I'm 6'4 with decent shoulders, so needless to say finding shirts that are long enough in the sleeve is a challenge for me, and the ones who come close are usually incredibly big in the body.

    I've searched and found older threads on this subject, but they are a few years old so I figured I'd start a new one for updated info and prices.

    So, who does good work and at what price? From reading a bit I gather Sean O'Flynn has a good reputation for high quality without being overly expensive, is this still true? If yes, what will the damage be per shirt, and what's the minimum order? Who else should I consider as contenders that give equally good value for money? And att the entry price, how good are the materials? For shirts I tend to favour materials that are light and soft if that's of any importance.


    I live in Oslo, but have friends I like to visit in London, so I think this is probably the best way to go. It'd be great if it's possible to do this with an initial visit and the rest done through phone/email. Does anyone have experience with that?

    Thank you in advance
    Silverfox
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2012
  2. PapaRubbery

    PapaRubbery Senior member

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    Hi,

    I'm an Australian who finds it difficult to find shirts my size as I'm a shorter bloke.

    Steed on Savile Row have no minimum order and their shirts start at 75 GBP, but I'm not sure if it is bespoke for that price or MTM, however. But I too would like to find a good bespoke shirt maker where I can get measured in person, before going online.

    I am going to check out Steed this week as I'm in London, and am happy to report back if you are interested?
     
  3. The Silverfox

    The Silverfox Senior member

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    That sounds great. I checked out their site and £75 is for MTM, but if it fits me and the construction is allright, I don't mind. Let me know how you find the whole process, and what the fabric selection is like.

    Will you just be visiting Steed, or will you be visiting other bespoke shirtmakers as well?
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2012
  4. cold war painter

    cold war painter Senior member

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    I use O'Flynn for shirts. I like his work a lot. I don't want to speak for his prices and obviously it varies with the choice of fabric, but his work is bespoke and thus justifiably more expensive than MTM. As far as I remember there was no minimum order - I think I started with just one shirt.

    As far as fittings, my first shirt was almost spot on and just needed one adjustment which we discussed over the phone. I was happy with the fit after that and he then wanted to see the shirt on me at a subsequent visit. Following that I now mostly make orders over the phone as I only manage to visit London occasionally.

    I use Steed for jackets & suits but I have never had a shirt made by them - this is just because I was already settled in with O'Flynn. Their tailoring is great and I would have every confidence in them to make a good shirt as well.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2012
  5. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Dege and Skinner.
     
  6. Macallan

    Macallan Senior member

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    How often would you be visiting London? It is not a simple process when you take distance into account.
     
  7. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    pure wisdom.
     
  8. The Silverfox

    The Silverfox Senior member

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    There's no reason to think I will be traveling to london for work anytime soon (though it could happen), so in all likelihood my visiting london will be the occasional trip for the sake of shopping and seeing friends. So once every 6 months maybe? But if I need to go, it's not particularly difficult as I have a place to stay there and it's only one and a half hours on the plane, but I'd prefer it if it was possible to do this with an initial visit and then the rest done over the phone or sending pictures/videos of fit electronically.

    I suppose this might be a reason to go for "just" MTM as opposed to bespoke, as the geographical hindrance means I might not be able to do enough fittings to get my money's worth with bespoke. Or would I?
     
  9. cptslow

    cptslow Well-Known Member

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  10. davesmith

    davesmith Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I totally didn't know this, thanks for the info. I have always wanted to try Budd, their RTW is about the same price as this and their bespoke starts at £195!
     
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    ^ Yes, but Steed is MTM and not bespoke (like Budd).
     
  12. The Silverfox

    The Silverfox Senior member

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    Sounds great actually, so I just sent them a mail inquiring about fabrics and some other stuff. I always wanted to try Budd as well, but I they don't even come close to being long enough for my 37.5 arms. Got my favourite ties from there though (though these are unfortunately also a bit too short), but currently waiting on a few hobers so we'll see if Budd can hold their own or if they get blown out of the water.
     
  13. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    I believe Harvie and Hudson has a bespoke division.
    As do Hilditch and Key and T&A. My guess is that H &H
    are significantly less expensive. I own several of their
    RTW shirts-- very decent for the price but a bit tent-like
    even for my stocky upper body. This shouldn't be an issue
    in bespoke.

    http://www.harvieandhudson.com/content/Information/About_Us/Bespoke_Shirts
     
  14. Midnight

    Midnight Well-Known Member

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    +1 Unlike some of the others, Emmett will let you start with just one shirt, rather than having to buy at least three.
     
  15. PapaRubbery

    PapaRubbery Senior member

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    While I can't afford Emma Willis' for bespoke shirt making, she is incredibly lovely and incredibly attractive. It was 190GBP RTW and 300GBP bespoke per shirt.
     
  16. E TF

    E TF Senior member

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    I think most london shirtmakers start with one test shirt that they make after taking your initial set of measurements. They then ask you to wear and wash it a few times, then go back with it for a fitting to see how it looks. Any adjustments required are then made, and with a bit of luck no further fittings are needed. So you could get your measurements taken at your next trip to london, have them post you the trial shirt when it's ready, wear it a few times, then take it back with you for a fitting the next time you visit London. You should then be good to order as many as you like remotely afterwards, unless you change shape...

    So I'd say two trips to London minimum to get the best out of going bespoke.
     
  17. Macallan

    Macallan Senior member

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    It could easily go the other direction and the person needing 4 visits, which would make the whole process 2 years long.
    Then he can select the cloth for the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, etc shirts - if they do not need to be altered, 4 shirts could take 2.5 years
     
  18. E TF

    E TF Senior member

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    True. I was describing the best case scenario - should have made that clearer.

    I have tried three London shirtmakers myself: two got it right with one fitting (i.e. 2 visits, though there have been subsequent tweaks over time); one took about four (and nearly a year - and I visit london much more often than the op).
     

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