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Bespoke shirt, reinforced placket- does it make a difference?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by macaroni, May 20, 2009.

  1. macaroni

    macaroni Senior member

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    Guys, I have just learned about a new bespoke shirt maker in my city (Warsaw/ Poland). Emanuel Berg is on the market for some 15 years making RTW and MTM shirts, but they are doing bespoke since recently. This is the sample shirt. They do test shirt with firs order, the fabric is DJ Anderson, MOP buttons, spit yoke etc. One thing I see for the first time is the reinforced placket. Can anyone explain what difference does it make comparing to ordinary placket? The maker seems to be very proud of this feature of the shirt, maybe they're making much ado about nothing? What do you think about this shirt? [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] placket reinforcement [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. glowell222

    glowell222 Senior member

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    Tommy likey. Tommy want wingy.

    I think it's very nice. Not sure how much the strengthened placket adds, but the shirt looks like it's well constructed.
     
  3. ChiliPalmer

    ChiliPalmer Senior member

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    Looks nice to me.

    May I ask how much they cost?
     
  4. macaroni

    macaroni Senior member

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    400 to 600 $ depending on the fabric.

    RTW around 120$
    MTM around 150$ to 200$

    Does anyone can tale me Charvet bespoke prices?
     
  5. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Looks like a good shirt. Nice details. Would be be better if the stripes matched up on the sleeve head.

    What do they mean by reenforced placket?
     
  6. anon

    anon Senior member

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    fantastic looking shirt.

    it looks like a French placket to me. maybe they put interlining in it?
     
  7. macaroni

    macaroni Senior member

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    maybe they put interlining in it?

    I have no idea. i must investigate the subject. I hoped somebody knows the reinforcement method used.
     
  8. macaroni

    macaroni Senior member

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    Would be be better if the stripes matched up on the sleeve head.


    Apparently it was made deliberately. The same sort of stripe unmatching like at the jacket lapels.
     
  9. sweep

    sweep Well-Known Member

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    Beautiful shirt. Love the buttonholes. The first time I saw a reinforced placket was on my shirt from Freddy V. in Los Angeles. I asked him about it, but forgot his answer. My guess is that maybe it prevents the bottom of the placket from getting ripped open, which, although I've never had happen to any of my non-reinforced plackets, I could imagine happening since that area sees a lot of motion.
    Still, even without it, I think the buttonholes could help with that function.
     
  10. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Beautiful shirt. An excuse to make a detour to Warsaw
    the next time I go to Europe.
     
  11. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What is the thread loop at the bottom of the placket?
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Taxler

    Taxler Senior member

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    ^^^

    On my 1 Borrelli shirt, the reinforcement is about 1/3 of the way down from the top. Below the reinforcement, the placket is stitched closed- to the right in this picture; above it, the placket isn't stitched closed- to the left in the picture.
     
  13. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    very nice hand made buttonholes.
     
  14. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    Beautiful shirt. An excuse to make a detour to Warsaw
    the next time I go to Europe.


    http://www.emanuelberg.com/en/
     
  15. Chips

    Chips Senior member

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    Very nice shirt. The sleevehead looks like its lined up fine, just rotated a bit.
     
  16. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Berg makes an excellent shirt.
    I believe they refer to the stich on the sleeve placket 7th photo down.

    I think the the extra cost on this shirt, due to the hand stitching is a complete waste.
    the regular machine stitched shirt is very well made.
    the hand stiched embriorded gusset is strictly decorative and serves no purpose.

    I guess it is time to post the pictures of the lanvin shsirt. where hand stitiching is discrete and not obvious.

    Carl
     
  17. macaroni

    macaroni Senior member

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    Berg makes an excellent shirt.
    I believe they refer to the stich on the sleeve placket 7th photo down.

    I think the the extra cost on this shirt, due to the hand stitching is a complete waste.
    the regular machine stitched shirt is very well made.
    the hand stiched embriorded gusset is strictly decorative and serves no purpose.

    I guess it is time to post the pictures of the lanvin shsirt. where hand stitiching is discrete and not obvious.

    Carl



    I think there is "too much" in this shirt, if you know what I mean. I could live without reinforcements, split yoke, gussets. The one thing i could kill for is collar. I like the close stitching, soft feel, and the wavy shape of it.
     
  18. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would assume that the collar is available in their regular program.
    Carl
     
  19. macaroni

    macaroni Senior member

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    The style "Milano", yes. The construction, no. No in Poland anyway. Only in bespoke service.
     
  20. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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