Bespoke shirt fitting critique please

[PSNY]

Started a project with a new tailor. Shown here is my 2nd fitting. Fit is decent forearms a tad tight. It just feels messy or is it just me? Goal is a balance of comfort and fit. Tailor recommended darting to eliminate excess back and body fabric per my concern. I want to raise the collar by 0.5cm as well.

Fabric is a 120/2 poplin untreated

Any feedback on what is wrong or what can be changed.

All feedback greatly appreciated, particularly the forums favorite and friend @Shirtmaven

 

[breakaway01]

Will definitely defer to Shirtmaven on this but I think the back isn't too bad actually. The shirring across the top of the back inherently adds fullness; if you don't have any restriction you could maybe ask to reduce the amount of fullness in the upper back slightly, but it looks okay to me. On the other hand, I think you could use a little more room in the front of the shirt. I think I see some pulling around the sides of your chest.

I like your collar height. I'd see how it looks with a jacket on before deciding on raising it more.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Started a project with a new tailor. Shown here is my 2nd fitting. Fit is decent forearms a tad tight. It just feels messy or is it just me? Goal is a balance of comfort and fit. Tailor recommended darting to eliminate excess back and body fabric per my concern. I want to raise the collar by 0.5cm as well.

Fabric is a 120/2 poplin untreated

Any feedback on what is wrong or what can be changed.

All feedback greatly appreciated, particularly the forums favorite and friend @Shirtmaven

They didn't slope the pattern .
Yoke is narrow
Chest is too small back is too big.
Add darts
And if the forearm is tight, then ask for a wider sleeve

Collar height looks fine
Collar has too wide of a spread to be worn open.
Where was this made.
The look on the faces of the sales people is enough for me to not go back.
They both see issues but don't want to deal with them.
Good luck

 

[PSNY]

They didn't slope the pattern .
Yoke is narrow
Chest is too small back is too big.
Add darts
And if the forearm is tight, then ask for a wider sleeve

Collar height looks fine
Collar has too wide of a spread to be worn open.
Where was this made.
The look on the faces of the sales people is enough for me to not go back.
They both see issues but don't want to deal with them.
Good luck

Thank you for the feedback sir! This was the first fitting. I do agree on the slope. The lats feel a bit tight but that maybe due to the chest? How is the length of the sleeves and body? They recommended darts which will be added. They wanted me to wash and wear the shirt and give feedback on any pain points before we proceed with adjustments.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Thank you for the feedback sir! This was the first fitting. I do agree on the slope. The lats feel a bit tight but that maybe due to the chest? How is the length of the sleeves and body? They recommended darts which will be added. They wanted me to wash and wear the shirt and give feedback on any pain points before we proceed with adjustments.

i would not have sent you home with this shirt.
and yes, i make mistakes as well.
did they actually make this, or send it out to a factory somewhere

 

[taxgenius]

Your left shoulder is sloped but they didn’t account for it. Even Proper Cloth MTM can adjust for that. At this point, I don’t think they can correct that.

 

[PSNY]

Your left shoulder is sloped but they didn’t account for it. Even Proper Cloth MTM can adjust for that. At this point, I don’t think they can correct that.

This is a very well regarded bespoke tailor who absolutely nailed my pair of Irish linen trousers in the photo as well. They themselves and all their customers have perfect fitting shirts with a good degree of hand work. I’m pretty sure they’re capable, surprised they didn’t catch it themselves, but this was the first fitting, I have limited time here and was told to wear it and give feedback after washing to make adjustments before commiting to anymore shirts. I will see how it turns out post adjustments.

 

[PSNY]

i would not have sent you home with this shirt.
and yes, i make mistakes as well.
did they actually make this, or send it out to a factory somewhere

This is made in their workshop. I am too surprised especially given how well their customers shirts fit. They did mention darts and more room in the chest. The slope is so obvious though surprised they missed it.

 

[Shirtmaven]

This is made in their workshop. I am too surprised especially given how well their customers shirt fit. They did mention darts and more room in the chest. The slope is so obvious though surprised they missed it.

They did not miss it......
If you were in my shop, I would have saved the collars and cuffs and recut the body.
At least they could have removed the sleeves and fixed the slopes.
Where is there hand work?
Good luck.

 

[PSNY]

They did not miss it......
If you were in my shop, I would have saved the collars and cuffs and recut the body.
At least they could have removed the sleeves and fixed the slopes.
Where is there hand work?
Good luck.

I opted for the basics in terms of hand work

 

[PSNY]

They remade the shirt using a lot of inspiration from another good fitting but could be better fitting shirt that I provided. I would opt to slim the body down and sleeves a bit, but the rest I think is pretty good, the slope and yolk being too small has been corrected. The shirt has not yet been washed so may slightly shrink. The fabric is Soktas 120/2 for those wondering.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Much better.

 

[PSNY]

Thanks, any adjustments you'd make?

 

[Shirtmaven]

Thanks, any adjustments you'd make?

Maybe take an 1" out of the chest and trim the sleeves not too much. See what the sleeve length is after a wash or two

 

[MattyS]

They remade the shirt using a lot of inspiration from another good fitting but could be better fitting shirt that I provided. I would opt to slim the body down and sleeves a bit, but the rest I think is pretty good, the slope and yolk being too small has been corrected. The shirt has not yet been washed so may slightly shrink. The fabric is Soktas 120/2 for those wondering.

Now the trousers are way too short!