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Bespoke Shirt Fit Help

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by sensuki, Jul 11, 2016.

  1. sensuki

    sensuki Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2016
    This is my first "Bespoke" shirt. The company I used claims it's bespoke and they make an individual pattern from scratch, but they have a weird process compared to what I've read online (i think). I had a consultation with ~15 measurements taken and instead of going in for a first fitting, they had the shirt made and ready to go and when I went in and tried it on I had a chat with the tailor and we critiqued the fit, but he said they recommend to take it home and wear it a couple of times and wash it before bringing it back for a pattern adjustment, so I did.

    Anyway, here is how it fits

    Untucked front:

    [​IMG]

    I wanted this shirt to be one that I tuck in, however it looks a lot better untucked, as is.

    In this picture I can see the shirt fabric pulling towards the bottom of the right armhole - I know that is a problem, but I'm not sure what exact adjustment would fix it?

    Tucked front:

    [​IMG]

    I think I'm standing a bit more "at attention" in this picture. With my shoulders back even slightly, I feel as if it's a bit tight across the upper chest

    Side tucked:

    [​IMG]

    Back untucked:

    [​IMG]

    Back Tucked:

    [​IMG]

    One thing the tailor picked up on right away was the amount of excess fabric in the back from below the yoke.

    Arms up:

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,336
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    what they told you is normal.
    make a shirt and try it on.

    the fit is good.

    do you always stand with your shoulders pulled back like that?
    it does not look like a normal posture.
    does he shirt have a box pleat? I can't tell from your hair.

    has the shirt been washed at least once?

    they could add a bit to the front chest
    and reduce the waist, but only if the shirt will be tucked in.

    you purchased a custom made shirt, not bad/
    what country was the shirt made in?
     
  3. sensuki

    sensuki Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2016
    Hi Shirtmaven

    The shirt is made in Melbourne, Australia. I had a consultation with one of the pattern makers and the shirt was made by their in-house tailors (not the same person as the pattern maker).

    I think I'm standing a bit stiffer than normal, but not by too much.

    The shirt is darted at the back.

    I have not washed the shirt yet, they said the material was factory washed, but I'm not sure if they meant sanforized, or once-washed.

    Yes, I think I need more room at the front of the chest, and also at the upper back too, as the shirt pulls either way during arm movements.

    I would like to tuck the shirt in, but it's a thick fabric, I think it's 7.5-9oz oxford cloth or something
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2016

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