Bespoke Savile Row/Mayfair Overcoats

[MontyChapman]

I've decided to go with Poole for my suit commission in the near future (hopefully next or the year after). My old faithful quid shop Dunn & Co. overcoat has served me well for the last few years and I think I'd like to treat myself with a proper traditional overcoat.

I get hot quite easily, so if I want to maximise my wearing period in the year, I'd have to go for a mid-weight coat - nothing too atrociously thick and warm. My friend gave me his old Tyrwhitt covert coat; that was nearly perfect but, perhaps, a little thin when proper winter season came along late last month. Something in between wool and covert cloth in weight would be ideal.

I did want something off the Row for my suit as I hope to wear it quite a lot to work and etc. I'm a sucker for branded clothing but I'm not as bothered about that for the overcoat. Though, that being said, I would still (ideally) like a Savile Row or at least a Mayfair tailored garment. I am also hoping this will last me a lifetime - inspired by Prince Charles' three overcoats which have serviced him for more than 30 years. I really do like his A&S coats but I'm a little scared by all the recent feedback on their work.

I'm open to suggestions! I'm fairly conservative in taste so nothing too ostentatious or flamboyant. Just a classic dark navy wool coat, maybe, with a velvet collar.

 

[Andy57]

In my opinion, unless you want something very specific, I would recommend looking carefully for something RTW. A bespoke fit is of less importance in an overcoat, I think, and it's relatively easy to get something RTW tailored to fit very well. Or go MTM.

I'd recommend looking at New & Lingwood, Cad & The Dandy's RTW offerings, or Burberry. I'm sure others have additional suggestions.

Edward Sexton's Bridge Coat might also work for you.

 

[MontyChapman]

In my opinion, unless you want something very specific, I would recommend looking carefully for something RTW. A bespoke fit is of less importance in an overcoat, I think, and it's relatively easy to get something RTW tailored to fit very well. Or go MTM.

I'd recommend looking at New & Lingwood, Cad & The Dandy's RTW offerings, or Burberry. I'm sure others have additional suggestions.

Edward Sexton's Bridge Coat might also work for you.

Could a velvet collar be added onto a pre-made overcoat?

 

[dieworkwear]

I would start with how you plan to wear it, where are you wearing it, and when will you use it. These decisions will help you find the right overcoat. A velvet collar is something that goes onto very formal coats such as Chesterfields, which are intended to be worn with dark worsted suits (city suits). Most men today don't have many opportunities to wear city suits often. Commission something that goes with your wardrobe and will fit into your lifestyle and environment, so that you're not just wearing a fancy SR garment like a showpiece.

 

[Andy57]

Could a velvet collar be added onto a pre-made overcoat?

Yes, Cordings do this all the time for their Covert coats.

@dieworkwear's advice is sound. But you should also buy something that you like. I like camelhair or camel-colored coats, for example. I have three of them, which is arguably two too many, but there it is.