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Bespoke/RTW Suit NYC advice for Wedding/work, yet another thread

mdjd

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TLDR I keep seeing "Not worth buying Tom Ford off the rack, at that price just get bespoke". Where in NYC would I go for that?

Hi everyone, I've been reading through similar threads on the forum, but prices have changed a lot even from a few years ago.

I'm getting married in July and I'd like a light grey suit for that, which will then serve as a very nice suit to wear for work.

I was ready to pull the trigger on a Ralph Lauren Purple Label light/medium gray 2 button notch lapel for $3,200ish at Saks 5th Avenue, but they didn't have my size in the end - no inventory anywhere in the country.

I used to be 38R but seems like 40R in a lot of brands fits better now. I'm tall and skinny with broad shoulders and kind of a small head. American cut suits look terrible on me, as do unstructured shoulders. The RLPL and Tom Ford O'Connor fit me very, very well with the look that I want (not trying to be a Bond imitator, promise).

Armani had a suit for ~$3,000 that fit very well and was close to the color I want.

I just bought a Sid Mashburn Kincaid 3 in a moss green, but that's not for the wedding. Significant alterations needed, but I think it will be a good fit, but less structured than I want for the wedding, and they didn't have the light grey I was looking for.

Places I've tried:
Tom Ford and RLPL (excellent), Cucinelli (not ideal silhouette), Paul Stuart (meh), Armory/Drakes/Todd Snyder (unstructured isn't for me), Boglioli (pretty good but no colors I want), J. Crew and Spier Mackay (bad fit for me), Suit Supply (trash, even to my unsophisticated eye I could see flaws for days).

Oxxford has closed its NYC store FYI.

Places I have yet to try:
Kiton, Canali, Brioni (lol)

Questions, in no particular order:
- Are there any RTW places I should try still?
- What would be the best bespoke/MTM in the 3k+ range but not insane, that are similar to Tom Ford/RLPL? I've read Greenfield is very American style, not for me, and Huntsman is the right style but 6-8k.
- Anyone know what line Armani stocks at Saks, and if it's worth the same as RLPL? It's pretty close to what I'm looking for, if it's not a massive label markup at $3,000. I might just go with that.

I'm not absolutely wedded to Light Grey, so if there's something that's a perfect fit and a cool color I'd do that as well. I am hoping to wear my cherry G&G St James II at the wedding tho, they're by far my nicest and fanciest shoes

Thanks!
 
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