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Bespoke Overload?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Butler, Apr 14, 2011.

  1. Butler

    Butler Senior member

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    [​IMG] Gentlemen please,

    I'm sorry to say that you do not read what I post!

    After the first couple of posts and PMs, I got the picture and elaborated on my initial post and explained a few things:

    First of all this is not about me, consequently I'm not bragging intentionally or not - I clearly writes that I do not have 100+ items!

    But I do indicate "that I'm conversant with the situation" (spoken as a true Butler :)

    Secondly there is a point about the question being about bespoke wardrobes, and not a question of simply management of large amounts of clothes! The amount of time, money and thoughts makes the huge difference.

    I emphasized that only a hand full of members are in a position to answer my question, comment on and discuss this topic.

    It is off course interesting that so many of other members still want to contribute, although by definition, they really are incapable of knowing the answer.




    So, you have the lifestyle where you have 100 suits but are wearing 8 of them because you like those the best ? I guess you are in that point where you have care for 50000 USD as much as I care for 50 USD. Like I would buy a trouser from Zara and not really beat myself up if I only wore it one time, you would apply to a 6000 USD suit.


    Whole thing reminds of when someone was selling 20-25 Attolini MTM/MTO suits which according to the seller were made for a billionaire who didnt bother to pick them up.


    See above!


    It depends, if you keep all garments at one place, then it might seem excessive; but many who are bespoke clients spend their time in more than one house. Hence, 100 suits over let's say 3 different locations does seem rather reasonable.

    This is a valid point!

    Besides the fact that it sounds like you're starting this thread to just blow yourself - your dilemma has absolutely nothing to do with the fact that you have too many bespoke items.

    If I goto Walmart and buy 100+ different colored Hanes T-shirts along with 50+ matching pairs of $10 jeans I would have the exact same problem as what you have. In fact, I'd say every single member on this board has the same issue where they favor certain pieces of clothing over others.

    The whole point of having a lot of suits, slacks, ties, shoes in a rotation is so that they all last longer. If you truly favor some suits over others then you should just "commission" the same 3 suits you like to wear and have them copied into 100.


    See above!

    Butler, you are a man of style and taste, If you are having trouble coming up with excuses to commission yet more beautiful garments, please feel free to have them made for me! Failing this wonderful plan, I would quite happily accept the donation of anything you feel goes unworn to often, therefore clearing space in your creaking wardrobe(s)!
    -TTO
    (In envy your problem0


    Thanks very much :) but it is not m y problem - see above!

    You guys laugh, but the OP's situation is not unlike the norm on SF: too much collecting, not enough refinement and focus. That his clothes are bespoke is really neither here nor there.

    Some have surely reached that point. In my wardrobe there are indeed suits and odd coats that have never been -- and perhaps never will be -- worn. Bespoke or off-the-rack it matters not.


    The fun -- for me at least -- is commissioning the garment and seeing it progress though the various fittings. At that point, wearing it can be rather anticlimactic.


    Thats what I'm talking about


    +1

    I think the issue people are having is not that he has too much clothes (as you mention, a sin of many here on SF) but rather that he is making it about bespoke clothes ("from the best artisans"). Whether the clothing is bespoke or Wal Mart, refinement and focus is more important than accumulation, as you mention. I just think that the OP came off as a bit of a braggard, willfully or not, by dismissing the same situation of the items are not bespoke.

    See above!

    I was going to post pretty much the same thing. Clothing should look worn, and lived in no matter the price... something that you actually wore and moved in, and pulled your pants down while deucing, and accidentally sprayed champagne on, and had cleaned because of some lipstick friendly fire on the collar.

    Good point!

    OP, can we get a larger pic of the avatar? looks like a good time.

    [​IMG]


    Avatar is compliment of Mr Sam :)

    Bragging or not, I'm reluctant to judge since there is real meat to this discussion. It's of little importance what the OP's intentions were.


    Also, I think over-collecting bespoke is distinguishable phenomenon.


    Indeed, but see them above


    I'm not really sure what you mean [​IMG]

    I think what people are "upset" about is that this was not meant to be a discussion, but a "hey everyone, look at me" threak. I honestly don't really care either way, just getting more confused as the thread goes on.


    Absolutely not, see above!

    I'm just saying that regardless of the OP's intentions ("look at me!" or not), he raises a salient issue for discussion.

    Cheers!

    I always thought Butler was really a butler and while his owner was away he played dress-up with his clothing. [​IMG]

    Wouldn't that be convenient - He could do all his masters fittings! :)
     
  2. braised

    braised Senior member

    Messages:
    331
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2008
    Butler,

    Time to be Jeffersonian about this. Collect data about what you have and how you use it.

    Chart out all of your good clothes, separate suits from odd jackets and then group by color (gray, blue, tan, etc) within seasonal sets (summer,3 season, winter). No hard rules, just allcoate them out.

    Round 1 of analysis is to see what is duplicative and where holes may be.

    Round 2 is to take the vertically arrayed list and add a couple of columns for seasons. Print it out, put it on, in or by your dresser.

    Everytime you wear a garment, mark a stroke in the column/box.

    After a year or two you'll know how what you wear and what you dont and can make reasoned decisions about what to keep, what to dispose and what to add.

    Lets talk in a year's time,
    Braised
     
  3. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

    Messages:
    9,027
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    Butler,

    Time to be Jeffersonian about this. Collect data about what you have and how you use it.

    Chart out all of your good clothes, separate suits from odd jackets and then group by color (gray, blue, tan, etc) within seasonal sets (summer,3 season, winter). No hard rules, just allcoate them out.

    Round 1 of analysis is to see what is duplicative and where holes may be.

    Round 2 is to take the vertically arrayed list and add a couple of columns for seasons. Print it out, put it on, in or by your dresser.

    Everytime you wear a garment, mark a stroke in the column/box.

    After a year or two you'll know how what you wear and what you dont and can make reasoned decisions about what to keep, what to dispose and what to add.

    Lets talk in a year's time,
    Braised



    [​IMG] Gentlemen please,

    I'm sorry to say that you do not read what I post!

    After the first couple of posts and PMs, I got the picture and elaborated on my initial post and explained a few things:

    First of all this is not about me, consequently I'm not bragging intentionally or not - I clearly writes that I do not have 100+ items!


    [​IMG]
     
  4. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    10,562
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    Mar 10, 2006
    This is being approached from the wrong end of the equation. There's nothing intrinsically better about either a large high-quality wardrobe with few wears each, or a small high-quality wardrobe with many wears each. The important factor is whether the owner enjoys their wardrobe. If they're the kind of person that enjoys the large collection, they should carry on buying. If they only love wearing the same few items regularly, and hate having the extra items then they should reduce it. If money is not an issue, and one simply enjoys the process of buying bespoke, continue and keep the items for rare use or just give them away after a wearing or two, if preferred. Dressing well is a complete irrelevance to the concept of a bespoke wardrobe anyway, once one moves past a certain - and very low - threshold, anyway. Bespoke clothes after this point are simply another discretionary luxury purchase. The act of wearing them or dressing well has much less to do with it. Buy them if you enjoy the process of buying and owning them. It's not rocket science. For some people it's stamps, others coins, others watches, others clothes. If people enjoy the process and the ownership, good for them and more power to them. PS. full and yet blindingly obvious disclaimer: I do not own 100+ bespoke suits... I'd like to, though. [​IMG]
     
  5. alphaO888

    alphaO888 Senior member

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    Aug 17, 2010
    Location:
    New York City
    If you have more clothes than you can wear then you have ceased to buy clothes for the purpose of wearing them and you have simply begun to buy things for the sake of just buying something.
     
  6. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

    Messages:
    459
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    Oct 28, 2010
    Bragging or not, I'm reluctant to judge since there is real meat to this discussion. It's of little importance what the OP's intentions were.

    Also, I think over-collecting bespoke is distinguishable phenomenon.


    Foo, I think over-collecting bespoke is distinct from over-collecting cheaper clothes precisely because of its exalted status and price.

    This is my hypothesis:

    Consider this -- a younger person starting out in classical clothing might enter with some RTW, and perhaps MTM. Ultimately though, steps tend to be taken in the direction of bespoke clothing in order to pursue the perceived increase in quality and fit. As such, increments in someone's wealth tend to go in this direction.

    An established iGent, perhaps with a reasonable income and finances and a reasonable bespoke wardrobe really has nowhere further "up" to go in collecting clothing. He has reached the "top". It is easy to forget the goals of refining ones wardrobe and style, and instead pursue simple increments in wardrobe size at this point. At points prior to this, people will instead move towards changing their wardrobe to bespoke rather than amassing more most of the time.
     
  7. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    FOLKESTONE
    Foo, I think over-collecting bespoke is distinct from over-collecting cheaper clothes precisely because of its exalted status and price.

    This is my hypothesis:

    Consider this -- a younger person starting out in classical clothing might enter with some RTW, and perhaps MTM. Ultimately though, steps tend to be taken in the direction of bespoke clothing in order to pursue the perceived increase in quality and fit. As such, increments in someone's wealth tend to go in this direction.

    An established iGent, perhaps with a reasonable income and finances and a reasonable bespoke wardrobe really has nowhere further "up" to go in collecting clothing. He has reached the "top". It is easy to forget the goals of refining ones wardrobe and style, and instead pursue simple increments in wardrobe size at this point. At points prior to this, people will instead move towards changing their wardrobe to bespoke rather than amassing more most of the time.



    Excellent post...

    I started with Canali and went to buy Gucci and many other designers...

    I went onto Kiton , Brioni and then bespoke...

    Rubinacci, Norton , Huntsman and now Anderson and Cifonelli...

    There are still dreams to be chased...

    3 piece suits, flannel ,tweed and so on...

    I don't buy anything else now than my bespoke suits...

    Something is still missing...

    I'm dreaming of Caraceni and Camps de Luca and so on until i will reach my end of the road and start chasing something else...
     
  8. LynahFaithful

    LynahFaithful Senior member

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    Lasbar - You are now past clothes...a Ferrari or two is next....
     
  9. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    Excellent post...

    I started with Canali and went to buy Gucci and many other designers...

    I went onto Kiton , Brioni and then bespoke...

    Rubinacci, Norton , Huntsman and now Anderson and Cifonelli...

    There are still dreams to be chased...

    3 piece suits, flannel ,tweed and so on...

    I don't buy anything else now than my bespoke suits...

    Something is still missing...

    I'm dreaming of Caraceni and Camps de Luca and so on until i will reach my end of the road and start chasing something else...


    las, why haven't you stayed with one (or two) tailor?
     
  10. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    las, why haven't you stayed with one (or two) tailor?

    He's a bespoke whore.
     
  11. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    He's a bespoke whore.

    las you sly dog [​IMG]
     
  12. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    I'm dreaming of Caraceni and Camps de Luca and so on until i will reach my end of the road and start chasing something else...


    A woman perhaps?
     
  13. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    Butler- what about seasonality?

    Unless one lives in an area with ostensibly one season, even 100 bespoke garments would normally mean some sizeable portion are limited to a particular season.

    So the question is about rotating a much smaller seasonal number, yes?
     
  14. S. Magnozzi

    S. Magnozzi Senior member

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    Excellent post...

    I started with Canali and went to buy Gucci and many other designers...

    I went onto Kiton , Brioni and then bespoke...

    Rubinacci, Norton , Huntsman and now Anderson and Cifonelli...

    There are still dreams to be chased...

    3 piece suits, flannel ,tweed and so on...

    I don't buy anything else now than my bespoke suits...

    Something is still missing...

    I'm dreaming of Caraceni and Camps de Luca and so on until i will reach my end of the road and start chasing something else...


    Patience is a virtue.

    Your route is positively common, however one that I didn't follow. As [​IMG] has said repeatedly, amassing a wardrobe too quickly will only lead to later headache. Bespoke is 'rather' affordable with today's travelling tailors compared to mid and high-level RTW, but methinks the average buyer still believes it to be something out of reach and are looking for more instant satisfaction. Many would find in their favour to be more patient and strategic when building a wardrobe...
     
  15. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    He's a bespoke whore.

    Different tailor, different experiences and different pleasures...
     
  16. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    You really want to see bespoke overload?

    How about this guy and his bespoke scrubs [second iteration] . . .

    [​IMG]

    Yes there was fabric selection [100% cotton in midnight, no less]. Yes there is a pattern. Yes there are fittings. Yes there are specifications for pocket detailings . . .

    Talk about overkill.

    [​IMG]

    - M
     
  17. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    You really want to see bespoke overload?

    How about this guy and his bespoke scrubs [second iteration] . . .


    I feel better already.
     
  18. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    Different tailor, different experiences and different pleasures...

    meeting with lorecifo tomorrow, but i'll keep your straying ways a secret[​IMG]
     
  19. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

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    So, you have the lifestyle where you have 100 suits but are wearing 8 of them because you like those the best ? I guess you are in that point where you have care for 50000 USD as much as I care for 50 USD. Like I would buy a trouser from Zara and not really beat myself up if I only wore it one time, you would apply to a 6000 USD suit.

    Whole thing reminds of when someone was selling 20-25 Attolini MTM/MTO suits which according to the seller were made for a billionaire who didnt bother to pick them up.



    This happens quite a bit. I had a energy tycoon come in recently to pick up a suit he order 5 years ago. It was literally half the size he is now.
     
  20. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    I feel

    Did you notice the subtle drapage [​IMG] ?

    Obviously a forumite.

    - M
     

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