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Bespoke Overload?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Butler, Apr 14, 2011.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You guys laugh, but the OP's situation is not unlike the norm on SF: too much collecting, not enough refinement and focus. That his clothes are bespoke is really neither here nor there.
     
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  2. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    And this is just the point; in my experience you will often reach a point when commissioning bespoke clothes, where a lot of it will never or very rarely be worn, because you tend to favour some items more than others!
    Some have surely reached that point. In my wardrobe there are indeed suits and odd coats that have never been -- and perhaps never will be -- worn. Bespoke or off-the-rack it matters not.

    As Vox has stated: "It is not a question whether one needs it, but that you want it" - but nevertheless, do we have a case of:

    Bespoke overload?

    The fun -- for me at least -- is commissioning the garment and seeing it progress though the various fittings. At that point, wearing it can be rather anticlimactic.
     
  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    You guys laugh, but the OP's situation is not unlike the norm on SF: too much collecting, not enough refinement and focus. That his clothes are bespoke is really neither here nor there.

    +1
     
  4. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    This reminds me of an anecdote in the excellent biography of Yul Brynner who at the height of his fame had a mobile wardrobe of eighty six pairs of black trousers which travelled with him wherever he went.
     
  5. TC (Houston)

    TC (Houston) Senior member

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    You guys laugh, but the OP's situation is not unlike the norm on SF: too much collecting, not enough refinement and focus. That his clothes are bespoke is really neither here nor there.

    ^ This. In my first year here I amassed a pretty sizeable wardrobe, as the SF mantra is that you need to have a shit-ton of clothing. I would typically go one month without repeating a jacket or suit. But I would greatly anticipate those days when something I was wild about came into rotation. That's ridiculous. Variety is overrated, why not wear the heck out of things you enjoy the most. In the last 18 months I haven't bought a single jacket or suit, and actually reduced my wardrobe by about 50-60% (Houston folks, there are some good finds at Goodwill LOL). Here's what I'm left with, and honestly I still wear the same 6-7 jackets/suits (my favorites) about 80% of the time. Doesn't make for the best WAYWRN fodder, but makes for much better enjoyment of my wardrobe.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You guys laugh, but the OP's situation is not unlike the norm on SF: too much collecting, not enough refinement and focus. That his clothes are bespoke is really neither here nor there.

    I think the issue people are having is not that he has too much clothes (as you mention, a sin of many here on SF) but rather that he is making it about bespoke clothes ("from the best artisans"). Whether the clothing is bespoke or Wal Mart, refinement and focus is more important than accumulation, as you mention. I just think that the OP came off as a bit of a braggard, willfully or not, by dismissing the same situation of the items are not bespoke.
     
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  7. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    You guys laugh, but the OP's situation is not unlike the norm on SF: too much collecting, not enough refinement and focus.
    Agreed.

    If I goto Walmart and buy 100+ different colored Hanes T-shirts along with 50+ matching pairs of $10 jeans I would have the exact same problem as what you have.
    Absolutely. Moreover, you'd have enough cash left over to buy a small vacation house.
     
  8. james_timothy

    james_timothy Senior member

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    There was a good thread a while back about whether one is better dressed with a minimalist wardrobe than with a collectionist wardrobe.

    What I took from that was the idea of a critical mass wardrobe, above which one can improve by culling.
     
  9. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    ^ This. In my first year here I amassed a pretty sizeable wardrobe, as the SF mantra is that you need to have a shit-ton of clothing. I would typically go one month without repeating a jacket or suit. But I would greatly anticipate those days when something I was wild about came into rotation. That's ridiculous. Variety is overrated, why not wear the heck out of things you enjoy the most. In the last 18 months I haven't bought a single jacket or suit, and actually reduced my wardrobe by about 50-60% (Houston folks, there are some good finds at Goodwill LOL). Here's what I'm left with, and honestly I still wear the same 6-7 jackets/suits (my favorites) about 80% of the time. Doesn't make for the best WAYWRN fodder, but makes for much better enjoyment of my wardrobe.

    [​IMG]


    TC I hereby demand that before you send a single item more to goodwill that you PM me first. I can collect in person!

    p.s. Which goodwill do you use? I'm always on the lookout for a bargain plus I have some stuff I'd like to sell too!
     
  10. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    ^ This. In my first year here I amassed a pretty sizeable wardrobe, as the SF mantra is that you need to have a shit-ton of clothing. I would typically go one month without repeating a jacket or suit. But I would greatly anticipate those days when something I was wild about came into rotation. That's ridiculous. Variety is overrated, why not wear the heck out of things you enjoy the most. In the last 18 months I haven't bought a single jacket or suit, and actually reduced my wardrobe by about 50-60% (Houston folks, there are some good finds at Goodwill LOL). Here's what I'm left with, and honestly I still wear the same 6-7 jackets/suits (my favorites) about 80% of the time. Doesn't make for the best WAYWRN fodder, but makes for much better enjoyment of my wardrobe.
    I was going to post pretty much the same thing. Clothing should look worn, and lived in no matter the price... something that you actually wore and moved in, and pulled your pants down while deucing, and accidentally sprayed champagne on, and had cleaned because of some lipstick friendly fire on the collar.
     
  11. desert_fox

    desert_fox Member

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    OP, can we get a larger pic of the avatar? looks like a good time.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think the issue people are having is not that he has too much clothes (as you mention, a sin of many here on SF) but rather that he is making it about bespoke clothes ("from the best artisans"). Whether the clothing is bespoke or Wal Mart, refinement and focus is more important than accumulation, as you mention. I just think that the OP came off as a bit of a braggard, willfully or not, by dismissing the same situation of the items are not bespoke.

    Bragging or not, I'm reluctant to judge since there is real meat to this discussion. It's of little importance what the OP's intentions were.

    Also, I think over-collecting bespoke is distinguishable phenomenon.
     
  13. newinny

    newinny Senior member

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    Having lived in NYC and moved pretty much every year, I am forced to annually slim down my wardrobe.

    This meant tossing a small NWT McQueen suit, my dad's 1970's bespoke suits, a loud plaid etro blazer and a lot of unworn shirts a couple months ago. If I lived in the 'burbs, they still would all be in a box down in the basement. Honestly it feels better when they're gone.

    I'm happy to say that each suit and blazer in my closet gets worn.
     
  14. TC (Houston)

    TC (Houston) Senior member

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    TC I hereby demand that before you send a single item more to goodwill that you PM me first. I can collect in person!

    p.s. Which goodwill do you use? I'm always on the lookout for a bargain plus I have some stuff I'd like to sell too!


    Haha, well unfortunately all the undesirables are gone. I think my wife donated everything to the collection center on the corner of San Felipe and Shepherd, just a few weeks ago right before we moved. I have no idea where it ends up from there.
     
  15. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    There was a good thread a while back about whether one is better dressed with a minimalist wardrobe than with a collectionist wardrobe.

    What I took from that was the idea of a critical mass wardrobe, above which one can improve by culling.

    Radicaldog started such a thread ... it was a good one.
     
  16. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Bragging or not, I'm reluctant to judge since there is real meat to this discussion. It's of little importance what the OP's intentions were.

    Also, I think over-collecting bespoke is distinguishable phenomenon.


    I'm not really sure what you mean [​IMG]

    I think what people are "upset" about is that this was not meant to be a discussion, but a "hey everyone, look at me" threak. I honestly don't really care either way, just getting more confused as the thread goes on.
     
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not really sure what you mean [​IMG]

    I think what people are "upset" about is that this was not meant to be a discussion, but a "hey everyone, look at me" threak. I honestly don't really care either way, just getting more confused as the thread goes on.


    I'm just saying that regardless of the OP's intentions ("look at me!" or not), he raises a salient issue for discussion.
     
  18. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    I always thought Butler was really a butler and while his owner was away he played dress-up with his clothing. [​IMG]
     
  19. james_timothy

    james_timothy Senior member

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    Radicaldog startes such a thread ... it was a good one.

    That was it.

    In the context of this thread, the Voxian advice would be to look at Biddle's Minimal Wardrobe and start editing down the bespoke collection to the pieces that he truly loves and wears.

    Very much like TC did.
     
  20. Aldehyde

    Aldehyde Senior member

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    It's my guess that the OP is actually a butler and is asking how he can get his employer to select more than just his favorite suits.

    I assume he lays out multiple outfits per day to allow the employer to choose what he likes best. Why not just make the seldom worn suit outfits look better than the favorites?
     

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