Bespoke Overcoat

[Manton]

Originally Posted by kolecho

Manton,

Very nice classic OC.

Are the darts that are used to shape this OC the same as the ones on the DB suit jacket made by the same tailor?

Yes.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by NOBD

According to?

My tailor has often mentioned that mid-calf is the right length for a DB overcoat. I get mine maybe an inch below the knee.

 

[NOBD]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

My tailor has often mentioned that mid-calf is the right length for a DB overcoat. I get mine maybe an inch below the knee.

Yes, that's what I meant: ultimately, you, as a bespoke customer, decide what's acceptable for you.

 

[Mort Sobite]

Originally Posted by NOBD

According to?

According to expert tailors gained from generations of experience on what looks and fits best. Of course, you can wear anything you like

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Mort Sobite

According to expert tailors gained from generations of experience on what looks and fits best. Of course, you can wear anything you like

Funny, I've talked to lots of "expert tailors" who say mid-calf is "correct."

Actually, it sort of depends on the coat. A sportier coat like a British Warm is traditionally knee length. A more formal coat like a Chesterfield tradtionally extends past the knee.

 

[Mort Sobite]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

My tailor has often mentioned that mid-calf is the right length for a DB overcoat. I get mine maybe an inch below the knee.


But an inch below the knee is not mid calf. And where are you measuring from. To me the knee on an average man is about 4" long. The best length is to the top and if you like it longer than at the bottom. That's the knee, below that is the shin.

 

[Mort Sobite]

some nice coats here especially the alpaca

http://shop.oconnellsclothing.com/ou...et=0&nLimit=20

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by Mort Sobite

But an inch below the knee is not mid calf.

Yes, that's my point, that I'm a bad boy who strays from the norm. But Manton is right, whether you and I like it or not, mid-calf is the norm.

 

[Mort Sobite]

Originally Posted by Manton

Funny, I've talked to lots of "expert tailors" who say mid-calf is "correct."

Actually, it sort of depends on the coat. A sportier coat like a British Warm is traditionally knee length. A more formal coat like a Chesterfield tradtionally extends past the knee.

Well I guess if it's a Loden coat then they're cut longer because they originated with shepards who were out in the elements all day but a long coat unless it's very light is uncomfortable to me unless you're just using it as a walking coat.

 

[holymadness]

Russian wool coats extend almost down to the ankle. Go watch Dr. Zhivago if you want a historical reference. Length is a function of necessity, which is dictated by how cold it is.

Tired of noobs inventing timeless rules of tailoring out of nothing. Whether Manton's coat makes him look like a stringbean or not has nothing to do with any objective criterion of correctness. Since you acknowledge that ideal length is relative to the height of the wearer, I don't see what you're babbling on about.

 

[F. Corbera]

Start at 1:20.

 

[Mort Sobite]

Originally Posted by Manton

Funny, I've talked to lots of "expert tailors" who say mid-calf is "correct."

Actually, it sort of depends on the coat. A sportier coat like a British Warm is traditionally knee length. A more formal coat like a Chesterfield tradtionally extends past the knee.

Which tailors were these and from what shops? And I guess it's not so important on a tall man but observe mid calf length coats on short men this winter and tell me what you think. Doesn't it emphasise their shortness?

 

[Redwoood]

The design of a garment is a mix of aesthetics, comfort, and (as holymadness says) practical considerations.
And this all feeds into personal preferences.
The length of a coat is not different in this regard.

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by Mort Sobite

Which tailors were these and from what shops? And I guess it's not so important on a tall man but observe mid calf length coats on short men this winter and tell me what you think. Doesn't it emphasise their shortness?

But what does this have to do with the discussion of a bespoke coat on Manton who's obviously not short?

 

[alliswell]

Noob picked the wrong IS to mess with. For reference, Manton is tall - 6'4" at a guess.