With this one, the tailor already had a DB suit pattern for me. He asked (via email) how long I wanted it. I said "mid calf." He asked me to put on one of his coats and measure down from the base of the collar to mid calf. I did that (with help) and sent him the measurement. At the first fitting, he thought the coat was much too long. I agreed. I think at that point it might have been literally mid-calf, the exact halfway point. I don't know how many inches he brought it up. It's still well past the knee, I would estimate 6".