Bespoke Overcoat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Dec 1, 2010.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Manton,

    Very nice classic OC.

    Are the darts that are used to shape this OC the same as the ones on the DB suit jacket made by the same tailor?


    Yes.
     


  2. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    According to?

    My tailor has often mentioned that mid-calf is the right length for a DB overcoat. I get mine maybe an inch below the knee.
     


  3. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    My tailor has often mentioned that mid-calf is the right length for a DB overcoat. I get mine maybe an inch below the knee.

    Yes, that's what I meant: ultimately, you, as a bespoke customer, decide what's acceptable for you.
     


  4. Mort Sobite

    Mort Sobite Member

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    According to?

    According to expert tailors gained from generations of experience on what looks and fits best. Of course, you can wear anything you like
     


  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    According to expert tailors gained from generations of experience on what looks and fits best. Of course, you can wear anything you like

    Funny, I've talked to lots of "expert tailors" who say mid-calf is "correct."

    Actually, it sort of depends on the coat. A sportier coat like a British Warm is traditionally knee length. A more formal coat like a Chesterfield tradtionally extends past the knee.
     


  6. Mort Sobite

    Mort Sobite Member

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    My tailor has often mentioned that mid-calf is the right length for a DB overcoat. I get mine maybe an inch below the knee.


    But an inch below the knee is not mid calf. And where are you measuring from. To me the knee on an average man is about 4" long. The best length is to the top and if you like it longer than at the bottom. That's the knee, below that is the shin.
     


  7. Mort Sobite

    Mort Sobite Member

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  8. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    But an inch below the knee is not mid calf.

    Yes, that's my point, that I'm a bad boy who strays from the norm. But Manton is right, whether you and I like it or not, mid-calf is the norm.
     


  9. Mort Sobite

    Mort Sobite Member

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    Funny, I've talked to lots of "expert tailors" who say mid-calf is "correct."

    Actually, it sort of depends on the coat. A sportier coat like a British Warm is traditionally knee length. A more formal coat like a Chesterfield tradtionally extends past the knee.


    Well I guess if it's a Loden coat then they're cut longer because they originated with shepards who were out in the elements all day but a long coat unless it's very light is uncomfortable to me unless you're just using it as a walking coat.
     


  10. holymadness

    holymadness Senior member

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    Russian wool coats extend almost down to the ankle. Go watch Dr. Zhivago if you want a historical reference. Length is a function of necessity, which is dictated by how cold it is.

    Tired of noobs inventing timeless rules of tailoring out of nothing. Whether Manton's coat makes him look like a stringbean or not has nothing to do with any objective criterion of correctness. Since you acknowledge that ideal length is relative to the height of the wearer, I don't see what you're babbling on about.
     


  11. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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  12. Mort Sobite

    Mort Sobite Member

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    Funny, I've talked to lots of "expert tailors" who say mid-calf is "correct."

    Actually, it sort of depends on the coat. A sportier coat like a British Warm is traditionally knee length. A more formal coat like a Chesterfield tradtionally extends past the knee.


    Which tailors were these and from what shops? And I guess it's not so important on a tall man but observe mid calf length coats on short men this winter and tell me what you think. Doesn't it emphasise their shortness?
     


  13. Redwoood

    Redwoood Senior member

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    The design of a garment is a mix of aesthetics, comfort, and (as holymadness says) practical considerations.
    And this all feeds into personal preferences.
    The length of a coat is not different in this regard.
     


  14. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Which tailors were these and from what shops? And I guess it's not so important on a tall man but observe mid calf length coats on short men this winter and tell me what you think. Doesn't it emphasise their shortness?

    But what does this have to do with the discussion of a bespoke coat on Manton who's obviously not short?
     


  15. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Noob picked the wrong IS to mess with. For reference, Manton is tall - 6'4" at a guess.
     


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