Bespoke Overcoat

[Manton]

The sleeves are fine. Had on gloves today and they easily came down over the base of the gloves. I think that's just the angle of the mirror.

 

[Holdfast]

Originally Posted by Manton

The sleeves are fine. Had on gloves today and they easily came down over the base of the gloves. I think that's just the angle of the mirror.

OK, cool.

I never usually trust photos for detail like that anyway; knew I shouldn't have on this one either.

 

[The Louche]

Manton - it looks gorgeous to me; love the fit. Two questions:

What color/material are the buttons?

What is the venting?

 

[Manton]

Buttons are dark blue and appear to be A&S plastic.

Single center vent.

 

[academe]

Very nice (from what I can see)... Do the lapels have a hint of belly?

 

[A Y]

I like it better now with the lightened photo --- being able to see the details draws the eye away and makes the silhouette less pronounced. On the positive side, it shows how much shape is used by A&S (ex-)cutters.

Are the pockets slanted?

--Andre

 

[Slewfoot]

This thread has renewed my interest in making a bespoke overcoat in the super heavywight W. Bill tan camelhair. It's something like 700 grams. Boo-yaa. Thinking a cross between a pea coat and ulster coat with the length at the top of the knee. Wouldn't be for this year though.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by academe

Very nice (from what I can see)... Do the lapels have a hint of belly?
There is some but it looks less pronounced than the belly on the DB jackets he has made me.

Originally Posted by A Y

IAre the pockets slanted?
No.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

This thread has renewed my interest in making a bespoke overcoat in the super heavywight W. Bill tan camelhair. It's something like 700 grams. Boo-yaa. Thinking a cross between a pea coat and ulster coat with the length at the top of the knee. Wouldn't be for this year though.

This s 700g. The swatch felt manageable. Almost thin. The cloth is so dense however that the coat weighs a ton.

 

[academe]

Originally Posted by Manton

There is some but it looks less pronounced than the belly on the DB jackets he has made me.

I like it...The subtle hint of belly appears very elegant to my eyes and adds a bit of extra visual interest, without being to in-your-face.

 

[Slewfoot]

Originally Posted by Manton

This s 700g. The swatch felt manageable. Almost thin. The cloth is so dense however that the coat ways a ton.

Agree that the swatch of your coat does feel surprisingly thin. I've considered that or the gray version before. Glad to hear it's heavy when made up. I'm sure you know the W. Bill one I'm referring to which is super dense and nearly 1/4 inch in height. It looks and feels so toasty for East Coast winters.

 

[comrade]

Originally Posted by Manton

Holy God this thing is heavy.

32oz?

 

[Mort Sobite]

Originally Posted by Manton

Pic is worse than usual. Arguably useless. Sorry, camera not cooperating today.

I can't really see the full length but it looks too long. A full length overcoat should come to the top of the knee (that's the traditional length) or if you like it longer than to the bottom on the knee. No other lengths are really acceptable and certainly not mid calf for a man's overcoat.
A shorter man should NEVER wear a very long mid calf coat and it should always be above the knee. Anything longer and he looks like Toulouse-Lautrec and it makes him look shorter or like a kid who's coat's too long for him.
I know they sell these longer coats but they're really not correct aside from the fact that the longer length is impractical. I had mentioned this to the tailor at Brooks where I have been buying clothes since I was 8 for school etc and he agreed and just said that well, that's what people want or that's what the buyer ordered. But even at Brokks most overcoats are as I said, to the top of the knee or the bottom of the knee whether you're a short or Tall.

 

[kolecho]

Manton,

Very nice classic OC.

Are the darts that are used to shape this OC the same as the ones on the DB suit jacket made by the same tailor?

 

[NOBD]

Originally Posted by Mort Sobite

No other lengths are really acceptable

According to?