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Bespoke Overcoat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Dec 1, 2010.

  1. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The sleeves are fine. Had on gloves today and they easily came down over the base of the gloves. I think that's just the angle of the mirror.
     
  2. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    The sleeves are fine. Had on gloves today and they easily came down over the base of the gloves. I think that's just the angle of the mirror.

    OK, cool. [​IMG]

    I never usually trust photos for detail like that anyway; knew I shouldn't have on this one either.
     
  3. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    Manton - it looks gorgeous to me; love the fit. Two questions:

    What color/material are the buttons?

    What is the venting?
     
  4. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Buttons are dark blue and appear to be A&S plastic.

    Single center vent.
     
  5. academe

    academe Senior member

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    Very nice (from what I can see)... Do the lapels have a hint of belly?
     
  6. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    I like it better now with the lightened photo --- being able to see the details draws the eye away and makes the silhouette less pronounced. On the positive side, it shows how much shape is used by A&S (ex-)cutters.

    Are the pockets slanted?

    --Andre
     
  7. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    This thread has renewed my interest in making a bespoke overcoat in the super heavywight W. Bill tan camelhair. It's something like 700 grams. Boo-yaa. Thinking a cross between a pea coat and ulster coat with the length at the top of the knee. Wouldn't be for this year though.
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Very nice (from what I can see)... Do the lapels have a hint of belly?
    There is some but it looks less pronounced than the belly on the DB jackets he has made me.

    IAre the pockets slanted?
    No.
     
  9. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This thread has renewed my interest in making a bespoke overcoat in the super heavywight W. Bill tan camelhair. It's something like 700 grams. Boo-yaa. Thinking a cross between a pea coat and ulster coat with the length at the top of the knee. Wouldn't be for this year though.

    This s 700g. The swatch felt manageable. Almost thin. The cloth is so dense however that the coat weighs a ton.
     
  10. academe

    academe Senior member

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    There is some but it looks less pronounced than the belly on the DB jackets he has made me.

    I like it...The subtle hint of belly appears very elegant to my eyes and adds a bit of extra visual interest, without being to in-your-face.
     
  11. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    This s 700g. The swatch felt manageable. Almost thin. The cloth is so dense however that the coat ways a ton.

    Agree that the swatch of your coat does feel surprisingly thin. I've considered that or the gray version before. Glad to hear it's heavy when made up. I'm sure you know the W. Bill one I'm referring to which is super dense and nearly 1/4 inch in height. It looks and feels so toasty for East Coast winters.
     
  12. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Holy God this thing is heavy. [​IMG]

    32oz?
     
  13. Mort Sobite

    Mort Sobite Member

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    Pic is worse than usual. Arguably useless. Sorry, camera not cooperating today.

    [​IMG]


    I can't really see the full length but it looks too long. A full length overcoat should come to the top of the knee (that's the traditional length) or if you like it longer than to the bottom on the knee. No other lengths are really acceptable and certainly not mid calf for a man's overcoat.
    A shorter man should NEVER wear a very long mid calf coat and it should always be above the knee. Anything longer and he looks like Toulouse-Lautrec and it makes him look shorter or like a kid who's coat's too long for him.
    I know they sell these longer coats but they're really not correct aside from the fact that the longer length is impractical. I had mentioned this to the tailor at Brooks where I have been buying clothes since I was 8 for school etc and he agreed and just said that well, that's what people want or that's what the buyer ordered. But even at Brokks most overcoats are as I said, to the top of the knee or the bottom of the knee whether you're a short or Tall.
     
  14. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    Manton,

    Very nice classic OC.

    Are the darts that are used to shape this OC the same as the ones on the DB suit jacket made by the same tailor?
     
  15. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    No other lengths are really acceptable

    According to?
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Manton,

    Very nice classic OC.

    Are the darts that are used to shape this OC the same as the ones on the DB suit jacket made by the same tailor?


    Yes.
     
  17. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    According to?

    My tailor has often mentioned that mid-calf is the right length for a DB overcoat. I get mine maybe an inch below the knee.
     
  18. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    My tailor has often mentioned that mid-calf is the right length for a DB overcoat. I get mine maybe an inch below the knee.

    Yes, that's what I meant: ultimately, you, as a bespoke customer, decide what's acceptable for you.
     
  19. Mort Sobite

    Mort Sobite Member

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    According to?

    According to expert tailors gained from generations of experience on what looks and fits best. Of course, you can wear anything you like
     
  20. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    According to expert tailors gained from generations of experience on what looks and fits best. Of course, you can wear anything you like

    Funny, I've talked to lots of "expert tailors" who say mid-calf is "correct."

    Actually, it sort of depends on the coat. A sportier coat like a British Warm is traditionally knee length. A more formal coat like a Chesterfield tradtionally extends past the knee.
     

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