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Bespoke Overcoat fabric. Cashmere, or wool blend, and durability.

soccerman

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I'm planning to do a bepsoke overcoat this winter in Hong Kong. Now I have narrow down two cloths from

Harrisons of Edinburgh, Overcoating book.

83916(19 oz, 50% cashmere, 50% wool) and 83922 ( 19oz 100% cashmere).


These two have the same weight. I know 100% wool is much more durable than 100% cashmere.
I'm wondering anyone can explain,
1) How durable is 50% cashmere and 50% wool compared to pure cashmere or pure wool?
2) How warm will the 50% cashmere and 50% wool be compared to pure cashmere or pure wool?

Price for 100% cashmere is almost double of 50% cashmere, 50% wool blend.

Is 50% cashmere and 50% wool a good compromise in terms of warmth, weight and durability?

I searched most of the posts on the forum about overcoat fabrics, and If I remembered it correctly, Manton mentioned cashmere blend does not make sense since it's not warm enough ( I assume it's not 50% cashmere, probably 20% or 15% cashmere?) compared to pure cashmere.

 

Mark Seitelman

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I would get a heavier weight unless you live in a warmer climate.

But, aside from weight, I would go with 100% cashmere. Nothing equals the look and hand. Yes, it might not last as long, but the 50/50 is a poor cousin.

A quality coat and cloth should last 10 years or more Whether you get more years from the 50/50 is hard to say. But, on the other hand, you'll tire of the same garment after 10 years, and you'll want a change.

Good luck.
 

soccerman

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I would get a heavier weight unless you live in a warmer climate.

But, aside from weight, I would go with 100% cashmere. Nothing equals the look and hand. Yes, it might not last as long, but the 50/50 is a poor cousin.

A quality coat and cloth should last 10 years or more Whether you get more years from the 50/50 is hard to say. But, on the other hand, you'll tire of the same garment after 10 years, and you'll want a change.

Good luck.
Hey Mark, thank you so much for the reply.
I live in North Utah, it's about 20 degree when it's really cold in the winter. I'm planning to wear this overcoat with a 3 piece 15oz woolen flannel Minnis suits. Most of the time I will stay indoors. Do you think 19oz cashmere is enough?
By the way, I will make a Single Breast overcoat instead of Double Breasts.

At first I was planning on buying 1000 gms London Lounge everest cashmere, but it seems like a bit too thick/heavy for a single breast overcoat?

What's the best weight do you recommend for SB overcoat?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Hey Mark, thank you so much for the reply.
I live in North Utah, it's about 20 degree when it's really cold in the winter. I'm planning to wear this overcoat with a 3 piece 15oz woolen flannel Minnis suits. Most of the time I will stay indoors. Do you think 19oz cashmere is enough?
By the way, I will make a Single Breast overcoat instead of Double Breasts.

At first I was planning on buying 1000 gms London Lounge everest cashmere, but it seems like a bit too thick/heavy for a single breast overcoat?

What's the best weight do you recommend for SB overcoat?
Vox used the Everest cashmere overcoating for a DB

tumblr_n2lm02uu4U1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Thanks for the pic Mahatma,

Do you think everest cashmere will look too baggy/thick for a SB coat? and probably too warm for north Utah weather?
I've never handled the Everest overcoating, so I don't know.

You may want to ask people in the Unfunded Liabilities thread on here, which is the thread for cloth. Someone there may have experience with that Everest run.
 

BXpress

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On another note, what's the best fit for a coat? Should it be wide enough to easily accommodate your suit without crumpling it, or shoud it definitely be body fitted?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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On another note, what's the best fit for a coat? Should it be wide enough to easily accommodate your suit without crumpling it, or shoud it definitely be body fitted?
It depends on the coat's style. Some are meant to fit looser than others.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Well i'm considering a 50/50 fabric/camel hair coat.
Camelhair is just the fabric. You can use the fabric to make up any number of coats. Certain coats, like Balmacaans, are looser. Some topcoats are designed to be tighter. There isn't a "right" way to fit a coat, it's all in the style of the garment.
 

BXpress

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Camelhair is just the fabric. You can use the fabric to make up any number of coats. Certain coats, like Balmacaans, are looser. Some topcoats are designed to be tighter. There isn't a "right" way to fit a coat, it's all in the style of the garment.
Well what i meant was the typical DB chesterfield in camel hair. Not important, guess I'll have to find out for myself then. Thanks.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Well what i meant was the typical DB chesterfield in camel hair. Not important, guess I'll have to find out for myself then. Thanks.
A Chesterfield is typically gray and single breasted. You may be thinking of a DB camelhair polo coat.

Those types of coats are generally supposed to fit comfortably through the shoulders when you're wearing a jacket, but also not be too tight.
 

WillingToLearn

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i am currently having a DB overcoat made up in a 100% cashmere (delfino 460g) cloth. I am not worried about longevity. even for NYC, it will only get 20 wears a year, max.

this is the fit with a sport coat underneath

 

soccerman

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i am currently having a DB overcoat made up in a 100% cashmere (delfino 460g) cloth. I am not worried about longevity. even for NYC, it will only get 20 wears a year, max.

this is the fit with a sport coat underneath

Thank you for uploading the pic, it's a very nice overcoat, I think I will choose the pure cashmere as well :)
 

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