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Bespoke overcoat, couple questions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by GQgeek, Sep 15, 2002.

  1. GQgeek

    GQgeek Stylish Dinosaur

    Likes Received:
    Mar 4, 2002
    I've made the decision to have a new one made to replace the one i have that doesn't fit quite right so I'm starting to think about what it is I want exactly. The only thing I know for certain is that it will be a 3/4 length coat. Aside from that, I know I want the closure to be fairly high on my chest since it's kinda cold up here in canada and having an open V to mid-chest defeats the purpose of a WINTER coat imo heh. First of all, is double-breasted considered more dressy than single or is it irrelevant? Personally I don't think it makes a difference, but I'm wondering. Here's a couple coats I liked: one by Ralph Lauren: I like the pockets on this one; kinda like the placket too. one by Armani: I like the slim cut and the high closure here. one by Jil Sander: I'm assuming the stuff on the right of the coat are compression artifacts heh.. Otherwise it's just a great looking coat all around and I like how the lapels look turned up. If i were getting a similar one made however, I might make it a tad bit slimmer though. My coat is to be worn without a suit and I'm wondering what people think about a dark red lining (i'm thinking cruel intentions here)? I believe I read somewhere that the lining of the coat in the movie was silk satin. The problem that might occur here is if my coat is undone and the lining doesn't match my top (I've got lots of greys and blues from sky blue to navy). When he's wearing that coat in the movie he's either got black or charcoal underneath. Obviously if the lining matches what you're wearing under the coat, it's a plus, but if it doesn't is it a big faux pas? This is my main question as I can probably figure out what I want done for the rest of the coat on my own. Anyway if you have any comments on double vs single breasted or on the color of the lining matching the clothes which are underneath, please give them. Thanks. PS Abe2 if you're still around can you send me a private message? thx

  2. pstoller

    pstoller Senior Member

    Likes Received:
    May 24, 2002
    Los Angeles
    I think it's irrelevant. The choice has more to do with your personal taste, your body type, and how you wear your coat than with one being inherently dressier than the other.

    It doesn't look that way. However, there's a chance that the funky detailing is only on the runway version, not on the coat you'll see in stores.

    Red goes well with blue or grey, so I don't think you'll have a problem there. A red lining could clash with a different shade of red, or orange, but it's a pretty good match with most other colors. (Of course, green might look a bit too Christmas-y when 'tis not the season.)

    FYI, my personal favorite of the three examples was the Armani.

  3. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Distinguished Member

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    Apr 11, 2002
    Northern VA, USA
    if i were buying a topcoat, it would def. be RL purple label, DB. check it out at www.victortalbot.com (i think spelling is correct on that). DB is warmer, of course, with the overlapping cloth. not to mention nice hand-finishing, nice grade of cashmere.

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