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Bespoke or RTW overcoat?

kolecho

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I know it is summer, but it is never too soon to be prepared for winter, hence the thought of an overcoat.

I am looking for advice on three issues:
- Should go bespoke with the likes of Chan or Jantzen, or get a RTW one off eBay or other online retailers?
- What is a classic style? I am leaning to raglan shoulders as I feel that it is more versatile for business and casual wear. Any suggestions?
- Any suggestions on fabric type and makers? I am leaning towards a dark charcoal or dark navy.
 

Manton

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If this is a first overcoat, I would hesitate before getting a ragaln. It's a great coat, but a little out of the ordinary. It would look "off" in a typical smooth dark topcoating cloth. It's meant for cheviot or tweed or some patterned, less formal cloth. Plus, it really doesn't go so well with city suits.

If you need this coat for black tie as well as business, think about getting a black coat. Otherwise, dark gray or blue are fine. Personally, I would get blue.
 

kitonbrioni

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Consider a double-breasted camel overcoat--either camel or cashmere. Also, you might get a Loro Piana Storm System overcoat so that a winter raincoat would not be a necessity. Charcoal is also a most versatile color.

Actually, this week my clothes person (a very nice black woman) called that they had just gotten in some Loro Piana Storm System cashmere double-breasteds in camel. Maybe it was the extreme heat and humidity outside but I had them make working button holes and shorten the sleeves a little.
 

DocHolliday

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I'm in love with the covert coat at the moment, but that may not be appropriate for what you're looking for.

As for the question of going bespoke, my advice is to never do so unless you're certain of exactly what you want. If you don't know what you're looking for, I'd say you're better off browsing off-the-rack until you do.
 

Concordia

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Chesterfields are useful as a halfway house between pure businesswear and black-tie-suitable. (Charcoal herringbone, black velvet collar).

Does anyone else here feel funny about pairing a SB overcoat with a DB suit? I don't actually own a DB overcoat, but am getting used enough to the idea of DB jackets that I might have to rethink the whole problem.
 

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